New member from Cambria County, PA

[MattHoover]

Hi All,

Just moved back home from the city, where I've enjoyed a Chrysler 300C SRT8 for the last several years; however, I'm over it, and I want to become a Bronco owner. I'm looking at everything from a 78-96 and I'm trying to discern the major differences. Any help there would be great.

I just missed on a '95 white/grey lifted with just under 200,000 miles on it with no rust for about $4500k. Broke my heart when I didn't get to it in time. I'm looking for any color really - I'm going to do a custom paint/vinyl exterior - but I'm only going to buy something that's in good physical condition as I don't have the know-how to do bodywork myself. So, I'm trying to track down a Bronco that's rust-free and clean, maybe already lifted with big tires. If anyone's selling, let me know.

I plan on customizing mainly the interior; I love the classic stock exterior of a Bronco and won't be doing any aftermarket headlights or other crazy racks or bars or anything like that - I want a very clean looking truck, but with modern upgrades on the interior.

Here's what I'd like to do:

- brand new black carpet & headliner

- brand new mid-2000's Ford F150 leather seats & console

- pistol & rifle holsters

- repainted or custom dash with iPad integration

- new steering wheel

- all new audio/video system with GPS

- reverse camera

- interior LED lights

- clear signal markers

- custom matte black/silver carbon fiber paint or vinyl wrap exterior; may consider Carolina Blue pinstriping

- vintage Bronco emblems

- new black & polished wheels

- 33"+ tires

- 3-4" lift

- exterior LED lighting (nothing ricey)

Looking forward to the adventure. Again, if anyone has a truck in Pennsylvania they're looking to sell, shoot me a message!

Thanks,

Matt

 

[Bronc76]

Welcome to the zone and good luck with the search.

 

[miesk5]

yo MATT,

WELCOME!

GL in your search!

That 95 price seems a bit too high imo

The later years auto tranny is the E4OD; best overall would be the 96 bec. it has the most "improvements" and 1996 has ODBDII, that helps much more in troubleshooting; it even has a Code for a loose gas cap!

We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed, etc.. using Ford's severe duty schedule; see a Link at end of reply

One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).

Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:

- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet® Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford

- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight

- auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing

- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive & $$$ patch or full panel replacements...

check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass

- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings

- ball joints.. costly if not DIY

- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96), make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds; most get yard units for DIY

- look for some maint records or contact a dealer to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership in the past (need VIN)

or on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.

If no maint records are avail; check and replace if needed all filters and fluids.

Esp if it is an Auto tranny; fluid level; when at norm op temp; after running thru all gears & reverse; no burnt toast or whitish (water) deposits on dip stick.

Car Fax is ok, but they did NOT list over $5k in single accident damages on 3 of our past vehicles; & our ex-92 Van had less mileage listed than when we sold it according to a CarFax report 2 years later... they did nothing after we contacted them.

- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.

- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)

- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com

- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace

- body mounts and frame rust

For a 96 get it checked for codes free at Parts Stores if you don't diy; For pre 96 with EFI do a SELF TEST - my pal BroncoJoe at

a Self Test by BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first & Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion

miesk5 NOTE, The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; miesk5 NOTE, The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks. Self-Test Output (STO) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual), release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp. Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually usually a broken travel stop or the motor connector is fouled, etc.

Also the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning

If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that someone removed it.

Same for Amber ABS lamp in Instr Panel.. The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system is self monitoring. When the ignition switch is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations.

In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service. Our module blew the micropprcessors two years ago and two yard modules were bad..No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.

Suggest you buy the official FORD EVTM, Service manual CD from E bay or Steve83 (use the search here for him and use the e mail function to contact him); it is the BEST under $15.00 or so thAng you can get to service and repair your Bronco!

The Owner's Manual is avail on e bay, but the 96 version is almost 100% equal

Get it for free from FORD; myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.

or

Owners Guide (Manual) for 96 Bronco/Ford truck & other Ford vehicles, get a free download for 96; includes Scheduled Maintenance Guide

Source: by Ford via fleet.ford.com https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp

Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.

http://broncograveyard.com

 

[Seabronc]

Welcome to the Zone >< <'>

>-

 

[MattHoover]

Thanks guys!

 

[johnnyreb]

Hi All,

Just moved back home from the city, where I've enjoyed a Chrysler 300C SRT8 for the last several years; however, I'm over it, and I want to become a Bronco owner. I'm looking at everything from a 78-96 and I'm trying to discern the major differences. Any help there would be great.

I just missed on a '95 white/grey lifted with just under 200,000 miles on it with no rust for about $4500k. Broke my heart when I didn't get to it in time. I'm looking for any color really - I'm going to do a custom paint/vinyl exterior - but I'm only going to buy something that's in good physical condition as I don't have the know-how to do bodywork myself. So, I'm trying to track down a Bronco that's rust-free and clean, maybe already lifted with big tires. If anyone's selling, let me know.

I plan on customizing mainly the interior; I love the classic stock exterior of a Bronco and won't be doing any aftermarket headlights or other crazy racks or bars or anything like that - I want a very clean looking truck, but with modern upgrades on the interior.

Here's what I'd like to do:

- brand new black carpet & headliner

- brand new mid-2000's Ford F150 leather seats & console

- pistol & rifle holsters

- repainted or custom dash with iPad integration

- new steering wheel

- all new audio/video system with GPS

- reverse camera

- interior LED lights

- clear signal markers

- custom matte black/silver carbon fiber paint or vinyl wrap exterior; may consider Carolina Blue pinstriping

- vintage Bronco emblems

- new black & polished wheels

- 33"+ tires

- 3-4" lift

- exterior LED lighting (nothing ricey)

Looking forward to the adventure. Again, if anyone has a truck in Pennsylvania they're looking to sell, shoot me a message!

Thanks,

Matt

go to www.smartmotorguide.com. You will find some resonable priced ones their--78-79 Bronco,s. Its best to have someone check EVERYTHING out on it. I bought a NICE looking one hear in the winter and in the spring I decided to crawl under it and check things out. Just about everything was wore out and the thing drove PERFECT. Good luck. DO NOT BUY --BUY LOOKS ALONE--IT WILL FOOL YOU. Check it out real good or it can cost you alot in the long run.

 

[johnnyreb]

Hi All,

Just moved back home from the city, where I've enjoyed a Chrysler 300C SRT8 for the last several years; however, I'm over it, and I want to become a Bronco owner. I'm looking at everything from a 78-96 and I'm trying to discern the major differences. Any help there would be great.

I just missed on a '95 white/grey lifted with just under 200,000 miles on it with no rust for about $4500k. Broke my heart when I didn't get to it in time. I'm looking for any color really - I'm going to do a custom paint/vinyl exterior - but I'm only going to buy something that's in good physical condition as I don't have the know-how to do bodywork myself. So, I'm trying to track down a Bronco that's rust-free and clean, maybe already lifted with big tires. If anyone's selling, let me know.

I plan on customizing mainly the interior; I love the classic stock exterior of a Bronco and won't be doing any aftermarket headlights or other crazy racks or bars or anything like that - I want a very clean looking truck, but with modern upgrades on the interior.

Here's what I'd like to do:

- brand new black carpet & headliner

- brand new mid-2000's Ford F150 leather seats & console

- pistol & rifle holsters

- repainted or custom dash with iPad integration

- new steering wheel

- all new audio/video system with GPS

- reverse camera

- interior LED lights

- clear signal markers

- custom matte black/silver carbon fiber paint or vinyl wrap exterior; may consider Carolina Blue pinstriping

- vintage Bronco emblems

- new black & polished wheels

- 33"+ tires

- 3-4" lift

- exterior LED lighting (nothing ricey)

Looking forward to the adventure. Again, if anyone has a truck in Pennsylvania they're looking to sell, shoot me a message!

Thanks,

Matt

Welcome to the club. Alot of people will help you out hear.