New buyer

Robertwesley

New member
Joined
May 2, 2020
Messages
29
Location
Cheyenne
Thanks for the replies! The battery cables will be replaced and upgraded. I have had several battery cable incidents in the past few years with my Deisel trucks...they seem to be HIGHLY sensitive to ANY irregularities in the electrical systems!! Did not know about the dash clip and hadn’t even thought of the door pins! Will both go on my check list! Do you have any thoughts on lift kits? I am thinking of mild...2 1/2-3 inches and was wondering if that small of a lift will still require longer shocks, lengthened drive shafts, drag link mods etc?
Thanks again!
Finally did the VIN recall check and came back with 0 recalls, so I guess the cruise control recall has been done?! Still haven’t returned home as we’re having some warranty work done on our RV...waiting for parts...hoping to get back to Cheyenne around the 27th...has been at my mechanic’s shop getting checked out. So far all looks good! Anxious to see and drive what I bought! Have pretty much decided to go with the 2-21/2 inch front lift/leveling...any suggesting brand?
 

Robertwesley

New member
Joined
May 2, 2020
Messages
29
Location
Cheyenne
Well, I finally made it back up to Cheyenne last week and picked up my Bronco! Everything seems to have checked out to be pretty sound! Body is in great shape and even the paint is very good-especially for the age! Must have been garaged most of its life! Since it was shipped to ”my” mechanic they have gone through most everything before I got home. The transmission checked out and shifts very firm without being too firm, Amsoil fluids were used to replace old stuff in transmission, transfer case, both diffs as well as the engine. Needed new front outer wheel bearings and inner wheel bearings, spindle bearing kit, new hubs, the timing cover was looking pretty poor although the timing chain itself was tight and looked good, installed a new drag link, new ps pump, serpentine belt and numerous seals and gaskets! A lot of seepage going on! But nothing mechanically major! Since I am NOT any sort of a mechanic, ( I can do basic maintenance and hope to work more on my Bronco as I go,) I asked them to go through it top to bottom and fix or replace what was needed so when I came home I could pick it up and go with “no” concerns.... and that is what they did! It is nice to have a solid mechanic that I can trust to look out for me! The only issue so far is the AC seems to be leaking down....going to try to replace the seal before getting anew pump-next Tuesday.
So far I am very happy with it! Even the Upholstry is in great shape although the drivers seat does need to be re-stuffed....may end up with new seats instead so will wait and see. New tires next Tuesday morning (going with 32x11.50’s) found and replaced driver seat belt, windshield wipers, ash tray tracks, an original jack and jack handle at the local salvage yard, bought a new cargo Matt, (floor matts ordered), new spare tire cover ordered tonight.....will probably stop there for now and just drive it and see what would be next. Will look into gear change with maybe a locker down the road but will drive it with the new tires for awhile and re-visit that issue. The passenger door has a bad rattle (any suggestions anyone?) and there are a few expected small projects just to tighten thing up. Biggest issue at this point is the rattles!! Over all, buying online without physically touching, seeing, driving etc., and then having it shipped from POS to mechanic was a gamble that paid off this time!! Not recommended.....but I got away with it this time!! Hope you all had a great 4th!
 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
7,798
Location
Coronado, CA
Yo Robert! Good for you!
Door rattle could be caused by a worn or damaged striker bushing.
the Dorman HELP tail gate striker bushings pn 38424 are a good fit & the door bushings driver/passenger bushings are incl. in this kit & fit better than the 38445 part!


Striker Bolt Differences; "...89-96 Door bolt shown has a replacement bushing. The bolt is designed to be unscrewed from the safety loop or washer, but after being tightened, the hole sometimes shrinks, preventing this..."
Source: by Steve at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/687500
strkebolts.jpg

the strike bolt is a T50 (like the seat belt bolts). A cordless impact is invaluable. I also recommend some padded prybars to lift/slide the door without chipping the paint. As you can see in the pic under #1, you'll need a few extensions & a ratchet to break & set the bolts. All of the nut plates in the body are loose (for adjustments), but captive (they shouldn't fall if the fastener is removed), but anything can happen. If one falls, just remove the interior trim panel & retrieve it. To reinstall the strike bolt nut plate, you'll need to remove the bedside panel & peel the butyl (tar) pad away. The plate itself will be behind the shoulder reel on the floor, or on the bag of wadding crammed in down there..."


btw, before removing the Bolt and bushing, I use masking tape to outline that bracket especially if the door is in alignment; that way, Installing the bracket w/new bushing will be ezier... wafter installing it, gently close door until you feel the door latch closing on the bushing so you don't damage the new bushing if it isn't lined-up right.
 

Tiha

New member
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Midwest
I am apparently too new and it won't let me quote,

The Dorman part found in the help aisle. Well let me put it this way, they are a softer material. They are better than the missing or broken ones but can cause the door to drag or stick when opening and closing.

I got these from ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Door-Lock-Striker-Bushings-1980-1996-set-of-2/173223750225?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

For me it was a night and day difference between the two in how the door opened and closed.

Anyway, sharp truck.
 

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