Yo dwjordanjr,
Welcome!
Here is some info for you;
1991 Bronco Silver Anniversary pics
Source: by David G (Orion) @
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/974
1991 Bronco Silver Anniversary pics @
http://broncograveyard.com/registry/vehicles/9710/silver-anniversary
next time, please fill out Signature with year, engine/tranny/Xfer case/hub type info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. for better responses.
Click your name in right black panel in upper right;
In pop up,
Click, My Profile
Click, Edit My Profile in right side black panel
In left panel, Click, Edit Signature
Enter info
Click, Save Changes
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Our sponsor, Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.
http://broncograveyard.com
...
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded
Some basics;
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.
Do KOEO test First
Post Code(s) here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
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Slow Cranking or a Grinding Noise; "... Problems with the negative battery cable is a major cause of starting problems in Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles. Bad battery cables can cause slow cranking or a grinding noise when trying to start an engine. The wire connection inside the battery terminal connector corrodes easily. This will cause a voltage drop in the cable and result in low voltage being supplied to the starter. You can check for voltage drop in the cable using a digital voltmeter. Connect the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative battery post (not the battery terminal connector). Then connect the positive probe to the starter case and crank the engine. The voltage reading should be less than .5 volts. A higher reading means there is resistance in the cable or the battery terminal connector. Clean the cable end and the battery terminal connector and test again. If the voltage reading is still higher than .5 volts, replace the cable and the battery terminal connector..."
Source: by genco1
Check both posts, wire coonectors, & wire strands for corrosion, & tightness. Check all grounds from negative post to engine block then to intake manifold, firewall and frame.
Dead Cell; "... Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the car, or it may start the car right after charging, but then fail to start the car an hour or more later. This condition most often happens to batteries subjected to lots of vibration, and sometimes to new and almost new batteries that have a bad cell from the factory..."
Source: by Gordon
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I had a batty w/a dead/shorted cell a few yrs ago; I had the No Crank issue; but after trying to crank a few times, the starter would spin and enginestarted. Next time I tried to start it, it cranked and ran! Then would shut off and try to restart, no go! and so on Batty was toasted, but good enuf to get me to the store.
GL!