More than 6" lift...

[SoFlaSwamper]

Is there anyway to get more than 6" out of an 88 F-150 without switching to a straight axle front??

I have 44" swampers that i want to put on. I have a 6" lift and a 3" body lift. I think I can clear the 44's with cut fenders but i'd rather not cut them.

So does anyone know where i can get bigger front springs that will still fit an independent front? I can get another 4" block and put that in the rear (welded to the other block of course).

any suggestions?

 

[Justshootme84]

Skyjacker is the only brand of lift kit that offers an 8" lift for the TTB Ford. I think most folks would suggest that you are much better off doing a SAS or straight axle swap. If you want to run 44" tires, you may need 1-ton axles, as the stock 1/2-ton axles cannot handle the weight of 44's and bigger wheels.

 

[SoFlaSwamper]

Skyjacker is the only brand of lift kit that offers an 8" lift for the TTB Ford. I think most folks would suggest that you are much better off doing a SAS or straight axle swap. If you want to run 44" tires, you may need 1-ton axles, as the stock 1/2-ton axles cannot handle the weight of 44's and bigger wheels.

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I appreciate the info on the skyjacker kit and the 1 ton straight axles and most likely will switch to those in the next couple of months, but i believe your information on the 1/2 ton axles handling 44s is slightly misguided...

I know several people with 1/2 ton axles that are running 44s AND 49s for several years. They have very very few problems with the truck spinning them.

I have 4.56 gears with brand new bearings. As long as I stay in Mud and avoid running in too much rock when in the mud, i should be alright

I also have a 9" rear, not an 8.8" so that should help me out a little more.

If I break something, oh well, its time to go straight axle anyways /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[SoFlaSwamper]

I put the 44s on today and no problems so far. Ran a little mud and its a champ thus far

need to cut some more fender out though. I only have a 6" suspension and 3" body lift

 

[Justshootme84]

Good luck!!! Sure, if you drive easy and avoid the tough stuff, you can possibly wheel without breaking. But I personally have seen a 1/2ton straight axle tube bend from the weight of 40+" tires, axleshafts chewed to shreds or shatterred, etc. If you go at it expecting things to break and have spare parts, O.K. If you're a noobie wanting to run 44's for the looks, or never go offroad or drive on the highway whatever. My point is that the stock axles were not designed for oversized wheels and tires, so expect parts to break more often than normal. Balljoints, bearings, u-joints, all of the steering parts will likely wear out quicker or flat out break. That's just my opinion from 25 years of driving 4wd's for work. My approach is to build things right the first time so they don't break and leave you stranded. The old addage, "a 4x4 will only get you stranded farther from help" is true. Don't forget to re-gear, too. >-

 

[SoFlaSwamper]

well, i do expect to break parts. The tires came dirt dirt dirt cheap and i needed new tires so i put em on. I'm savin up for a straight axle conversion...gonna go with 1 ton 8 lugs.

i have 4.56 gears so i'm already geared up

I took her out this past weekend and beat her up pretty good...ran like a champ!! I think as long as i don't spin em too hard in hte mud and then suddenly catch rock or something, i should be alright

 

[ocalabronco]

you're running 4.56's with 44's? you better have some major power under the hood, cuz that is severly undergeared. the 9" is stronger than the 8.8, but not by a whole lot. you are living on borrowed time, running 44's on 1/2 ton gear, ESPECIALLY on the TTB. if you want to get more than 8" of lift, you will pretty much HAVE to go with a 1 ton swap, because its going to start looking like IFS with the deep dropped pivot brackets. and then you have to start thinking in terms of how much leverage those dropped brackets are putting on the frame. it would end up being cheaper in the long run to swap to 1 ton stuff, when you consider the cost of the 8" kit, the stuff you will end up breaking, and the potential damage to the drivetrain and/or frame. as long as you dont have en E4OD trans, you can run a 14 bolt rear, which will do much better than the 9" and are a dime a dozen at scrap yards. your first order of business should be to address your rear suspension plans. do not, i repeat, DO NOT stack blocks in the back. i get bad enough wrap with a single 4" block and 1" zero rate on 35's, i dont even want to think about what yours will be. welded or not, stacked blocks is a dangerous idea. once again, consider the amount of leverage that will be exerted on the spring pad and ubolts. dont be ghetto, just wait and do a one ton swap.

 

[SoFlaSwamper]

you're running 4.56's with 44's? you better have some major power under the hood, cuz that is severly undergeared.  the 9" is stronger than the 8.8, but not by a whole lot.  you are living on borrowed time, running 44's on 1/2 ton gear, ESPECIALLY on the TTB.  if you want to get more than 8" of lift, you will pretty much HAVE to go with a 1 ton swap, because its going to start looking like IFS with the deep dropped pivot brackets. and then you have to start thinking in terms of how much leverage those dropped brackets are putting on the frame.  it would end up being cheaper in the long run to swap to 1 ton stuff, when you consider the cost of the 8" kit, the stuff you will end up breaking, and the potential damage to the drivetrain and/or frame.  as long as you dont have en E4OD trans, you can run a 14 bolt rear, which will do much better than the 9" and are a dime a dozen at scrap yards. your first order of business should be to address your rear suspension plans. do not, i repeat, DO NOT stack blocks in the back. i get bad enough wrap with a single 4" block and 1" zero rate on 35's, i dont even want to think about what yours will be. welded or not, stacked blocks is a dangerous idea.  once again, consider the amount of leverage that will be exerted on the spring pad and ubolts.  dont be ghetto, just wait and do a one ton swap.

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good info...appreciate it. I am going to 1 ton axles, so don't worry. I know i'm on borrowed time right now, which is why i'm beginning to gather up the 1-ton parts.

What all do I need besides the actual axles and new driveshafts??

Thanks

 

[ocalabronco]

that all depends on what kind of suspension you want to run. for the rear, just the rear axle and your desired lift springs. stay away from those blocks now, skyjacker makes 8" leaf springs. or you can have them custom made. it might be more expensive, but it will save you the headache that comes when you spit out the blocks and your body drops onto the tires. if you want to run leafs in the front, you can pretty much set your lift amount by combining the lift height from the front springs and front crossmember. for example. with stock front f-250 springs and ~2" front member with the shackle reversal ( moved to the rear spring eye instead of front), you can get around 6" of lift and decent flex. now if you want just pure height and aren't concerned much with the flexyness, run custom built shackles in the front (cut from 1/4" plate) underneath your xmember, and coupled with 6" lift springs, you will get around 12". i think you could easily get away with running 2 or 4" springs and still have alot of lift with your body lift adding on to it. and dont be a ***** if you have to trim your fenders, do it. now if you wanna run coils, thats a whole different ball game. its not necesarily harder, but its not any easier. my best suggestion to you is to take a jaunt over to fullsizebronco.com, and visit the SAS section. its dedicated to swapping in solid axles, and there are a bunch of stickies at the top of the forum with all the information your muddy little heart desires.

 

[SoFlaSwamper]

that all depends on what kind of suspension you want to run.  for the rear, just the rear axle  and your desired lift springs. stay away from those blocks now, skyjacker makes 8" leaf springs. or you can have them custom made. it might be more expensive, but it will save you the headache that comes when you spit out the blocks and your body drops onto the tires.  if you want to run leafs in the front, you can pretty much set your lift amount by combining the lift height from the front springs and front crossmember. for example. with stock front f-250 springs and ~2" front member with the shackle reversal ( moved to the rear spring eye instead of front), you can get around 6" of lift and decent flex.  now if you want just pure height and aren't concerned much with the flexyness, run custom built shackles in the front (cut from 1/4" plate) underneath your xmember, and coupled with 6" lift springs, you will get around 12".  i think you could easily get away with running 2 or 4" springs and still have alot of lift with your body lift adding on to it.  and dont be a ***** if you have to trim your fenders, do it.  now if you wanna run coils, thats a whole different ball game.  its not necesarily harder, but its not any easier.  my best suggestion to you is to take a jaunt over to fullsizebronco.com, and visit the SAS section. its dedicated to swapping in solid axles, and there are a bunch of stickies at the top of the forum with all the information your muddy little heart desires.

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thanks you kindly!!! very helpful

 

[NATERJ14]

SoFlaSwamper hey man are those pics from corbett area it looks familar?

 

[SoFlaSwamper]

SoFlaSwamper hey man are those pics from corbett area it looks familar?

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nah, they're from a place down here called macks fish camp (well across the street actually)

I just got back from OkeeChobee Mud Fest...it was a blast!!! didn't get stuck ONCE and I tried just about every pit!! I cut my upper radiator hose tryin to yank out a 79 (I forgot to zip tie it to the intake tubing and it got too close to my fan)

And then on my LAST run, i took some girls for a ride and blew the water pump gasket. I just ripped the water pump apart today and tomorrow im gonna re-gasket it and put her back together.

So far, all my axles and IFS stuff is in tact with 44s!!! thats 4 serious muddin expeditions (2 actual mud bogs)

 

[TX_BEAST]

.  the 9" is stronger than the 8.8, but not by a whole lot. 

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i agree with the front axle needing to be upgraded but the nine inch in the back can be built to handle 44 inch tires eaisily, and can be fairly reasonably priced.

yes in stock form they are only a little stronger than the 8.8 but why change the whole rearend when all that really has to be done is axles and differential carrier.

dont get me wrong the nine inches do have their drawbacks but every axle does, but there is a reason most motorsports that require a real stout axle go with the ford nine inch.

 

[SoFlaSwamper]

don't rule out the 14-bolt though...its cheaper and supposedly more durable.

i'm stickin with my 9" and getting a straight axle when i break this front end...i'm up to like 7 or 8 trips now without breaking it <knock on wood>