Mickey Thompson 33x15.50r15

[bryan thomas]

what amount of lift would have to be made to fit these? I didn't know this size existed until I looked up wheels on ebay tonight. here's the link.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-NEW-MICKE...sspagenameZWDVW

would a 4 inch lift w no cut out flares work. are cut out flares necessary for the wider 33x15.50r15? does anyone have pictures of this set up? thanks

 

[BroncoJeff]

what amount of lift would have to be made to fit these? I didn't know this size existed until I looked up wheels on ebay tonight. here's the link.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-NEW-MICKE...sspagenameZWDVW

would a 4 inch lift w no cut out flares work. are cut out flares necessary for the wider 33x15.50r15? does anyone have pictures of this set up? thanks

I run 35x12.50 on my bronco on 2 and a half inch suspension lift. However they rub in the turn and I am getting ready to put on my six inch lift next weekend. Your wheels are wider too, so the question is do you want suspension or body lift? My advice do a six inch pro comp suspension lift like the one I have.

 

[Broncobill78]

Well you've managed to ask one of those questions that has several answers. If you just want to run the tires on the road and that's it then you don't have to do a thing. You can run a 33" tire under stock suspension just fine, but if you want to goof around off road, *especially* with a 15" compared to a 12.5" then you'd better be prepared for some wrinkled sheetmetal. The 33's work with no lift as long as you aren't flexing the suspension too much. If you're going to do that then I'd suggest either the same 4" lift that 35's need OR trimming the fenders and using the Bushwacker fender flares. A third option would be to install longer bumpstops to avoid tire to fender/quarter contact but those will limit your off-road suspension articulation. That's about it as far as your choices go.

 

[bryan thomas]

Well you've managed to ask one of those questions that has several answers. If you just want to run the tires on the road and that's it then you don't have to do a thing. You can run a 33" tire under stock suspension just fine, but if you want to goof around off road, *especially* with a 15" compared to a 12.5" then you'd better be prepared for some wrinkled sheetmetal. The 33's work with no lift as long as you aren't flexing the suspension too much. If you're going to do that then I'd suggest either the same 4" lift that 35's need OR trimming the fenders and using the Bushwacker fender flares. A third option would be to install longer bumpstops to avoid tire to fender/quarter contact but those will limit your off-road suspension articulation. That's about it as far as your choices go.

Yeah I don't have a truck for looks. it's my weekend warrior too. and mostly i run on sand and occasionally mud every weekend. i know the 33' will fit w/o lift. i had 33's on one time that a friend gave me but they were ragged and also the wheels were rusty and losing air pressure so i took them off. so my best bet to fit these would be a four inch and the cut outs are NOT necessary correct? thanks bill. your on it as always. i really like these tires a lot.

 

[Broncobill78]

Right, you can run with either ball. A 4" lift will give you the clearance and so will the Bushwackers but you don't need *both*. You may want to take some time to kick the ideas around. The lift will be a good choice especially if you think you may move up to 35"/36" tires later on but the wheels may (and that's just like saying "maybe" or "might" since it's all in the eye of the beholder) look a little empty with 4" of lift & 33's. If you know for sure that 33" is the size you like and will stick with you might want to run the flares instead since you aren't increasing the size of the wheelwell so much *and* you'll have the advantage of extending the body to cover the tires (Law enforcement sometimes gets funny about stuff like that depending on where you're at, what the laws are & what kind of mood he's in). I know my 12.5's stick out a good 2" past the wheelwell & I can only imagine what 15's would look like from inside a cruiser /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> Wide 33's with flares is a pretty good look. It'll work either way it just comes down to which look you like more & what you future plans for the truck are.

 

[GA_Bronco]

Well you've managed to ask one of those questions that has several answers. If you just want to run the tires on the road and that's it then you don't have to do a thing. You can run a 33" tire under stock suspension just fine, but if you want to goof around off road, *especially* with a 15" compared to a 12.5" then you'd better be prepared for some wrinkled sheetmetal. The 33's work with no lift as long as you aren't flexing the suspension too much. If you're going to do that then I'd suggest either the same 4" lift that 35's need OR trimming the fenders and using the Bushwacker fender flares. A third option would be to install longer bumpstops to avoid tire to fender/quarter contact but those will limit your off-road suspension articulation. That's about it as far as your choices go.

Bronco Bill

You seem to now alot about this subject. I have 35X12.50 15 on my truck with a 4 inch suspension and 3 inch body also fender trrimmed with flares. I am wanting to get bigger tires what is the max you think I can run without changing the running gear?

 

[Broncobill78]

Bronco BillYou seem to now alot about this subject. I have 35X12.50 15 on my truck with a 4 inch suspension and 3 inch body also fender trrimmed with flares. I am wanting to get bigger tires what is the max you think I can run without changing the running gear?

Well with a 4" suspension lift, a 3" body lift AND trimmed fenders you should be able to easily run a 38.5". Depending on how far you've trimmed back the fenders you can probably get away with a set of 40's. If you *want* to run the 40's then I'd suggest running Bushwacker cut-out flares. Before installing the Bushwackers put the 40's on & *then* trim the wheelwells and fit the flares. You can easily get away with 38.5's but to run the 40's I'd use the flares because they really let you open up the wheelwells to what you need and they'll also extend the body to cover the tires which Joe-cop always likes to see.

Late Edit: I forgot to mention in the original reply that you need to be mindful of just how large your tires get. 36" is really about the max for the stock running gear. The bearings & axle shafts just aren't up to handling anything much larger. Now if you're primarily running around town and don't really wail on it then you'll probably get away with if for quite some time, BUT if you take it off-road with 38's or larger and stock axles you're just begging for a tow home out of the woods, a really big repair bill and a story that you'll tell for years to come. 38" and larger tires should really be run on Dana 60's. If you don't want to swap to the larger Danas then you need to spend some bux on the stock running gear. Larger hardened axle shafts and bearings are a must and a full-floater conversion would be an excellent idea. Truth be told you'll spend more upgrading the stock axles than you will just swapping to 3/4 or 1-ton running gear but everyone like to have choices. Regardless of what route you choose you WILL need upgraded axles to run anything over 36" off-road and expect it to survive more than a season.

 

[GA_Bronco]

Well with a 4" suspension lift, a 3" body lift AND trimmed fenders you should be able to easily run a 38.5". Depending on how far you've trimmed back the fenders you can probably get away with a set of 40's. If you *want* to run the 40's then I'd suggest running Bushwacker cut-out flares. Before installing the Bushwackers put the 40's on & *then* trim the wheelwells and fit the flares. You can easily get away with 38.5's but to run the 40's I'd use the flares because they really let you open up the wheelwells to what you need and they'll also extend the body to cover the tires which Joe-cop always likes to see.
Late Edit: I forgot to mention in the original reply that you need to be mindful of just how large your tires get. 36" is really about the max for the stock running gear. The bearings & axle shafts just aren't up to handling anything much larger. Now if you're primarily running around town and don't really wail on it then you'll probably get away with if for quite some time, BUT if you take it off-road with 38's or larger and stock axles you're just begging for a tow home out of the woods, a really big repair bill and a story that you'll tell for years to come. 38" and larger tires should really be run on Dana 60's. If you don't want to swap to the larger Danas then you need to spend some bux on the stock running gear. Larger hardened axle shafts and bearings are a must and a full-floater conversion would be an excellent idea. Truth be told you'll spend more upgrading the stock axles than you will just swapping to 3/4 or 1-ton running gear but everyone like to have choices. Regardless of what route you choose you WILL need upgraded axles to run anything over 36" off-road and expect it to survive more than a season.

Thanks for the info. That is exactly what I was looking for. I think I have decided to go with 36X13.50 15 Irok's or 35X14.50 15 not sure yet but I don't want to be out and break an axle somewhere. Appreciate it.