Leaking pinion seal

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BroncoDriver1947

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Just got a 73 Bronco. It has a leaking pinion seal on the rear differential. Is there a good tech article on replacing the seal? Is it difficult to reassemble the yoke and establish the preload correctly to prevent damaging the gears?

Am I better off letting a dealer do this? I have rebuilt engines (289/302) but have never messed with a differential.

I have a reasonable set of tools and can follow instructions.

 

Ziggy

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If it is a 9" rear end, first remove the drive shaft. Using an inch pound torque wrench (dial type) and socket on the pinon nut yoke, measure the amount of torque needed to maintain differential rotation (rotaintional drag) through several clockwise revolutions. Record the measurement. Then using suitable wrench to hold the yoke, remove the pinion nut. Place a drain pan under the rear diff, mark the yoke in relation to pinion and remove the yoke. You may have to slightly tap the yoke with a hammer to release it. Remove the seal and replace it. There are a couple of differant seals used, so I suggest removing the old one first before you buy the new one, that way you can match them up. You will also need a new yoke nut as well. Install the new seal, put a coat of grease on the rubber lip first to prevent seal burn. Coat splines of yoke with a small amount of grease and install yoke alighning the match marks. Install new yoke nut. Holding the yoke, tighten pinion nut taking frequent turning torque readings till the original preload reading is attained. If the original preload reading , that you noted during assembly , is lower than the original reading, keep tighteningthe pinion nutuntil the specified reading is reached. If the original preload reading is higher than 8-14 inch lbs., torque the nut just until the original reading is reached. You will need a torque wrench that will go to at least 225 ft. lbs. If your 3rd member has been repaired or you've had it regeared, you may not need to do allof this as the remove the crush gasket and replace it with a spacer. Then all you would need to do is replace and retorque the pinion nut to about 175 ft. lbs.

 
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BroncoDriver1947

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Thanks Ziggy! Great instructions.

One more question, I have seen discussions for some differentials reguarding how to take the torque readings. With the rear axle supported on jackstands, should I remove the wheels and drums or leave them installed to take the readings?

OK, two more questions:) How about an impact wrench for removing the nut? (not for installing it)

Thanks again!

 

Ziggy

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Remove wheels and brake drums as you don't want any "induced" drag when you take your reading. As for the impact, I don't see why you couldn't use one.

 

Broncoholics

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I use the impact to take off the nut, rip out the old seal with a screwdriver or slide hammer and tap in the new seal with the old seal on top (12,6,9,3 o'clock pattern) until its flush. Then tighten that sucker down super tight. I usually use the cheater pipe on the end of the torque wrench to get it real tight. Also look at the yoke to see if it has any scratches. Small scratches can be smoothed out with sand paper (250 grit). Deep scratches you have to replace the yoke. Could be why its leaking but could be old too.

 

Broncoholics

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Forgot to say, I leave the tires on the ground durring this process. This way the pinion doesn't turn while tightening down the nut. Make sure you put a bluck behind the tires do you don't move the truck while tightening.

 

texar72broncoboy

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man min ewas doin the same thing

i put all new seals in it and its still soin it and so im just going to make sure that theres always oil in it

 

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