In my search for an affordable big toy I have ran across several broncos that have been setting for one, two and even three years. Some of these broncos have low mileage and some don't so my question is if an engine has been setting for one too two years should I plan for an engine overhaul?
Is An Overhaul Needed?
- Thread starter cleo
- Start date
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Shadow_D
Active member
Chances are they will all need to be rebuilt. The reason I say this is bases on a few factors,
1) Why were they taken off the road?
2) One that has not been running for a year but has high miles is just as likely to need a rebuild as one that has been sitting for 3 or more years with less miles.
3) How much are you willing to spend?
Motors that have been sitting for 2 or more years may have major oil leaks at the gaskets. The 351W in the early 90's had a big problem with the oil pan rotting out and leaking.
You need to ask yourself how much time and money are you willing to put into your toy? What do you want the truck for, Play, Show, basic transportation or any of the above?
If you can have the owner start the trucks watch and listen to them carefully. Let them warm up to operating temperature and keep running for about 15 minutes minimum and Look for oil leaks and listen for any knocking.
Next look the body and underside over for rot. Body panels can be replaced it all depends on how much time you want to spend restoring the truck.
Think about how much driving you are going to do. Bronco's don't get good fuel mileage, 5 to 12 MPG is average.
I am not trying to discourage you from buying a Bronco, I just want you to be informed as to what you should expect.
I hope this helps you with your decision.
Oh one more thing,
Welcome to the B Zone!
1) Why were they taken off the road?
2) One that has not been running for a year but has high miles is just as likely to need a rebuild as one that has been sitting for 3 or more years with less miles.
3) How much are you willing to spend?
Motors that have been sitting for 2 or more years may have major oil leaks at the gaskets. The 351W in the early 90's had a big problem with the oil pan rotting out and leaking.
You need to ask yourself how much time and money are you willing to put into your toy? What do you want the truck for, Play, Show, basic transportation or any of the above?
If you can have the owner start the trucks watch and listen to them carefully. Let them warm up to operating temperature and keep running for about 15 minutes minimum and Look for oil leaks and listen for any knocking.
Next look the body and underside over for rot. Body panels can be replaced it all depends on how much time you want to spend restoring the truck.
Think about how much driving you are going to do. Bronco's don't get good fuel mileage, 5 to 12 MPG is average.
I am not trying to discourage you from buying a Bronco, I just want you to be informed as to what you should expect.
I hope this helps you with your decision.
Oh one more thing,
Welcome to the B Zone!
Thanks for the addvice Shadow D. To be honest any Bronco I buy will only be used on the weekend and during deer season at the lease so it will not be my main method of transportation, for that I have a very blah white 03' F150. There are two Broncos I've been looking at, one is a 81' with a 400M and C6 transmission. It looks clean and has only 76K on it and was well maintained up until about two years ago when it ended up on a buddys lot and has not been touched since. The other is a 83' with a inline 300 six and a 4 spd manual OD transmission w/135000 mi. This Bronco was last started about one year ago but hasn't been driven in two years. I think the reason no ones bought it is that the guy wants too much money for it, $1,500.00. Well I'm still looking and hopefully I'll find what I'm looking for before summer. Any other advice or opinions are welcome.
Shadow_D
Active member
If the 81 has good service records that you can read through then you might want to go for that one over the 83. Make sure that it the mileage is true and not 176K.
These can get to be a money pit if you are not carefully, the mileage will **** you with the 81 ranging from 5 to 8 MPG. I say that because my 351W only gets 8 to 10 MPG. Find out why he got rid of it. Did it develop any major problems like a motor knock? Run it for at least 15 minutes after it warms up and listen to it closely, if it starts to knock after it warms up then you will need to rebuild the motor, the bottom end is going bad. How much oil is in it and how much is covering the outside of it?
Next you will want to check the transmission for slippage. If it has a minor slip then get yourself a bottle or two of LUCAS TRANSMISSION ADDITIVE. I used it in my trany before I had it rebuilt and it did work.
You will also want to check the axel seals and transfer case seals to be sure they don't leak.
If you need to rebuild the motor then you will want to use a Full Synthetic Motor Oil like Mobil 1. It helps keep the engine cooler and reduces friction.
Same with the trany, axles and transfer case. DO NOT USE IT IF ANYTHING LEAKS! It will make the leak worse than before.
I have always used a blended or full synthetic oil in my engines and I love it. I have been told that if I go to a full synthetic oil in the transmission, diffs and transfer case it will help my MPG and let the truck go faster because there is a lesser amount of friction.
Keep us posted.
These can get to be a money pit if you are not carefully, the mileage will **** you with the 81 ranging from 5 to 8 MPG. I say that because my 351W only gets 8 to 10 MPG. Find out why he got rid of it. Did it develop any major problems like a motor knock? Run it for at least 15 minutes after it warms up and listen to it closely, if it starts to knock after it warms up then you will need to rebuild the motor, the bottom end is going bad. How much oil is in it and how much is covering the outside of it?
Next you will want to check the transmission for slippage. If it has a minor slip then get yourself a bottle or two of LUCAS TRANSMISSION ADDITIVE. I used it in my trany before I had it rebuilt and it did work.
You will also want to check the axel seals and transfer case seals to be sure they don't leak.
If you need to rebuild the motor then you will want to use a Full Synthetic Motor Oil like Mobil 1. It helps keep the engine cooler and reduces friction.
Same with the trany, axles and transfer case. DO NOT USE IT IF ANYTHING LEAKS! It will make the leak worse than before.
I have always used a blended or full synthetic oil in my engines and I love it. I have been told that if I go to a full synthetic oil in the transmission, diffs and transfer case it will help my MPG and let the truck go faster because there is a lesser amount of friction.
Keep us posted.
Shadow_D
Active member
Also something to keep in mind with full synthetic motor oils, conventnal oil must be changed every 3k miles, Blended can go 4 or 5k miles and full synthetic can go 6 or 7k miles. Yes it may cost more to change your oil but think of it this way...
every 3k costs about $20 if you do it your self and full synthetic costs about $30 every 6k. You save $10 using the full synthetic.
every 3k costs about $20 if you do it your self and full synthetic costs about $30 every 6k. You save $10 using the full synthetic.
That's really good info, Shadow D!!!
If you can start the motor and you see no major leaks, hear no ticking or knocking noises, and it doesn't smoke too much, it may last you for a while. Chances are ,though, that it had one or more problems and it's been sitting for so long that the owner could not drive it. Condensation and rust will form on the cylinder walls if the motor sits for several months. Before starting it, remove the spark plugs, and squirt some oil in the cylinders. Then turn the motor over a few times to be sure it is not frozen. The battery will prolly be bad since they seldom last more than two years.
If you can start the motor and you see no major leaks, hear no ticking or knocking noises, and it doesn't smoke too much, it may last you for a while. Chances are ,though, that it had one or more problems and it's been sitting for so long that the owner could not drive it. Condensation and rust will form on the cylinder walls if the motor sits for several months. Before starting it, remove the spark plugs, and squirt some oil in the cylinders. Then turn the motor over a few times to be sure it is not frozen. The battery will prolly be bad since they seldom last more than two years.
I've got a decision to make and maybe ya'll can help. Two Broncos to choose from which would you pick and why. Keep in mind this vehicle will be used on weekends, after its fixed-up, and at the deer lease.
1) 81' 400M, C6 trans, 76K miles, and clean body. Not started in at least two years but well maintained up until two years ago. Asking price $1,500.00 firm
2) 83' 300 in-line six, OD manual trans, 136K and clean body. Started one year ago but not driven in the past two. No maintance records and does not look to have been as well maintained as the 81'. Asking price $1,000.00 firm
No matter which Bronco I choose I am going to replace both front and rear diffs to limited slip, the rear aggresive and the front smooth, and while I'm at it I will change the seals and bearings.
Any comments and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Shadow D,
How does synthetic oil affect limited slip differntials?
1) 81' 400M, C6 trans, 76K miles, and clean body. Not started in at least two years but well maintained up until two years ago. Asking price $1,500.00 firm
2) 83' 300 in-line six, OD manual trans, 136K and clean body. Started one year ago but not driven in the past two. No maintance records and does not look to have been as well maintained as the 81'. Asking price $1,000.00 firm
No matter which Bronco I choose I am going to replace both front and rear diffs to limited slip, the rear aggresive and the front smooth, and while I'm at it I will change the seals and bearings.
Any comments and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Shadow D,
How does synthetic oil affect limited slip differntials?
Last edited by a moderator:
Shadow_D
Active member
First, Synthetic diff **** would only help the limited slip, plus I think most manufacturers recommend synthetic diff **** with the limited slip diffs.
Now for the truck.
If it was me I would want to read through the service records to see what was done on the 81. I would be looking for stuff like regular tune-ups, oil changes and what other work has been done.
If they both seem mechanical sound I might be more willing to spend the extra money and buy the 81 do to the fact is has 60k miles less and good service records, as long as everything was serviced at the regular intervals.
The motor in the 83 might be getting tired where as the 81 still has some more life in her. The motor and tranny are the heart of the truck.
Think of it as a woman, the 83 has the body of a 30 year old but the heart of a 90 year old and the 81 has the body of a 60 year old but the heart of a 25 year old.
The body might look good but if the heard is bad then she won't be around much longer.
If the body is bad but the heart is strong, she will be around a lot longer and the body can be fixed with make-up.
I am sorry if I offended anyone out there with my analogy but if you think about it, its right.
I hope this helps and let us know what you decide.
Darrin
Now for the truck.
If it was me I would want to read through the service records to see what was done on the 81. I would be looking for stuff like regular tune-ups, oil changes and what other work has been done.
If they both seem mechanical sound I might be more willing to spend the extra money and buy the 81 do to the fact is has 60k miles less and good service records, as long as everything was serviced at the regular intervals.
The motor in the 83 might be getting tired where as the 81 still has some more life in her. The motor and tranny are the heart of the truck.
Think of it as a woman, the 83 has the body of a 30 year old but the heart of a 90 year old and the 81 has the body of a 60 year old but the heart of a 25 year old.
The body might look good but if the heard is bad then she won't be around much longer.
If the body is bad but the heart is strong, she will be around a lot longer and the body can be fixed with make-up.
I am sorry if I offended anyone out there with my analogy but if you think about it, its right.
I hope this helps and let us know what you decide.
Darrin
cleo, I have a ? for you, and maybe someone can chime in, too. Is the 400M the original motor in the '81? I ask that because I don't think it is. I believe Ford stopped using the 400M in 1979 Broncos, and from 1980 on the only V8's were the 302 and 351W. You can check the vin# to see what the original motor was.
With that answered, I would still lean toward the '81 because of the V8 instead of the I6. But I am just more of a fan for displacement/cubic inches when it comes to motors, and the 300I-6 is no slouch. It has gobs of torque and is adequate for the Bronco, especially if you keep the vehicle "sane", and don't plan to add a large lift and big tires.
With that answered, I would still lean toward the '81 because of the V8 instead of the I6. But I am just more of a fan for displacement/cubic inches when it comes to motors, and the 300I-6 is no slouch. It has gobs of torque and is adequate for the Bronco, especially if you keep the vehicle "sane", and don't plan to add a large lift and big tires.
Bronco_In_Ny
New member
What ever you do do, what is a good idea is to pull the Plugs and squirt some oil in each cyc. this will keep the rings from sticking if the Bronco has been setting for a bit, it could save the need to overhaul the motor, or atleast give you some room to work.
