how to get faster times?

[SE AK Bogger II]

I race in the Naukati Mud Boggs(naukatimudboggs.com), the only motorsports event in Southeast Alaska. I am have been consistently getting 1st, 2nd, or 3rd place in my division but always win or lose by .6 seconds or so. My average for the 180 ft track is 7.076 seconds. I have a 90 BII with a 2.9L V6 177CID 6" lift with 33x12.50 tsl super swampers. What can I do to gain some HP, or speed? I've removed my muffler and cleared my cats out, removed my tailgate, removed my lower airbox and zip tied my filter to the top box for less restriction, changed fuel filter, plugs, oil (synthetic 10-40) and filter, have front and rear swaybars. What else can anyone recomend? Would some traction control give me anything? Different tires? I appreciate any help you can offer!! Thanks in advance!

 

[89Bronco58]

a checp trick is to replace the stock fan with an electric one to free up some horses, also from the sounds of what you are doing i would invest in new gears front and back, go with 410 or 456, that would def give you alot more get up and go, good luck >-

 

[muladesigns1]

V8

 

[SE AK Bogger II]

V8

That's a no brainer! I have to stay with a ford V6 to stay in Stock Compact class, also I can only add 2 bolt ons before I get bumped into modified compac,t which I don't want to do.

 

[muladesigns1]

instead of looking to the engine for more power why not change the gears to a lower ratio? that'll help a huge amount!

you didnt mention what type of trans you are running but if its an auto convert to a stick that will free up more power, if its a standard already try changing out the gears. do you alrealready have a cam and headers with dual exhaust? remove the power steering and get an electric pump. theres tons of mods to get faster. I am not sure what you are or not allowed, so its hard for me to recomend to much.

 

[SE AK Bogger II]

instead of looking to the engine for more power why not change the gears to a lower ratio? that'll help a huge amount!you didnt mention what type of trans you are running but if its an auto convert to a stick that will free up more power, if its a standard already try changing out the gears. do you alrealready have a cam and headers with dual exhaust? remove the power steering and get an electric pump. theres tons of mods to get faster. I am not sure what you are or not allowed, so its hard for me to recomend to much.

It is a 5 speed already. Where is a good place to get gears? What gears do you recomend?

These are the regs for stock compact class as published on the web site www.naukatimudbogg.com~

Engine: Family truck line engines only. Stock with exception of any three exterior bolt-on parts. Cylinder heads are not allowed. Family line (e.g. Chevy S-series 4cyl or 6cyl; K-series 6cyl or 8cyl).

Suspension: Factory suspension. Unlimited lift.

Tires: Any 33" D.O.T. tire allowed 10 lb. variance in tire pressure. No paddles, terras, duals or tractor tires. NO CUTS!!

Fuel: Gas, diesel or propane. NO Nitrous Oxide, Alcohol or Pressurized Bottles (excluding propane).

Exhaust: Does not have to be street legal. NO upright headers. All entries must be factory produced.

Frame and body for that make and model with full production metal, excluding heaters and tailgate. NO interchanging of body and frame.

Thanks for all the help!!!

 

[muladesigns1]

for gears, I have gone to randys ring and pinion. they seem to have a good product at a good price. as far as what ratio. 4.10:1 would launch that pretty good with 33's or if you want to get real agressive you can go with 5.08:1. I noticed that you are allowed 3 bolt on mods so if you are running the stock rear end, bolt on a 9 inch. I dont know if you are running the stock rear end now but I dont know if they make the 5.08's for that rear. 4.10's would be pushing it as well. you have to remember its a late model vehicle made for lite duty so theres not much out there for stock parts.

another alternative to the cylinder heads is to give them a mild port and gasket match. that should free up and extra 10-15+HP

I think in your case the gears would make the biggest impact. you can find a 9" under any early bronco and the width should be close to what you have now. of course the bolt pattern is larger.

 

[yusuebronko2_86]

Being an avid tuner of the Bronco 2, i have a few tricks i'm willing to share in the terms of performance and speed, BUT YOU HAVE TO READ THEM CAREFULLY AND SERIOUSLY!

if you're allowed headers (non-upright of course), then that'll definately give you some balls to stick to the walls. i got mine from AZraceplace.com.

being a '90, you have smaller valves and a less aggressive camshaft than an earlier model 2.9 (86-87).

a cheap trick would be to get an '87 engine that has been babied all its life, and use your computer with it. this is my little secret that's not a secret anymore: the earlier engines had bigger valves and slightly more bumpier camshaft, so with the newer ecu, it thinks it has smaller stuff than it actually does, resulting in a slight power up.

also, make sure you run a dual exhaust (if you're allowed). AND FOR CRYING OUT LOUD, DON'T PUT A 2 1/4 SETUP!!! go with at least a 3" single straight pipe, or dual in dual out 2 1/2 muffler with crossover. flowtech and magnaflow are great brands, not flowmaster.

the port and polish match is a sure-fire way to score some extra horses, though realistically it's only about a 6-10 hp difference, if done right. also, the factory throttle body is restrictive, and has a casting line right before the butterfly. THIS HAS TO BE SMOOTHED OUT. be careful though, as you don't want to make a gap under the butterfly. you only need to smooth out 1/16" on both sides of the butterfly, and make sure to get any casting lines elsewhere you see. DON'T GET SHAVINGS INTO THE INTAKE. take it off before you do this. and get that while you're there.

LAST BUT DEFINATELY NOT LEAST:

bypass the EGR. it's simple, the headers won't have the fitting for the egr, so just disconnect the pipe from the front-driver side of the throttle body and plug the hole. leave the sensor and diaphragm alone. also, bypass the PCV. this puts oily, dirty air right smack on top of the butterfly in the throttle body. just buy some hose that fits the existing valve, and an extra valve, some silicone, and run the hose from the throttle body right behind the air filter, with the spare valve in the middle of the hose. use a couple of inches to keep the old valve where it is, just point it out of the way.

IF YOU HAVE READ THIS CAREFULLY, SLOWLY, AND SERIOUSLY... you should end up making an extra 25-35 horses total. maybe more if you're good....

well, i've spilled the beans. GOOD LUCK AND PLEASANT VICTORIES!!!!

 

[jaminjimlp]

I'm just guessing here but dose accel or moroso make any super spark coils or ignition stuff that would help, or some split fire plugs or is that not worth buying?

i wish i could remember ...there was some mod that you could do that you replace the air intake temp sensor to some certain value resistor to trick the computer into thinking it is colder outside and that would increase the hp it may have been for an s10 though... i think it was on e-bay... i looked and found something similar heres what they say...

"This is better than nitrous without The Nitrous effects on the motor.

The Progressive Tuner simply wires into the factory harness of the IAT sensor. The module will work with the sensor to provide a new signal to your vehicles computer, or ECU. The ECU then adjusts your air/fuel and timing advance curves to new performance settings. Our progressive tuner eliminates costly parts and installation of ECU components (many ECU mods require you to solder and modify the main board), and still safely and legally provides the same end results. There is no risk of damage to the engine or electrical system since the modified sensor signal will always remain within the manufacturer