yo BUCKBRONCO,
If previous owner(s) DID NOT follow Ford;s Maintenance Schedule (normal or severe), I would suspect engines w/over 150,000 miles. I have to 'splain that I believe an eng can last longer, but the usual suspects play a big part in longevity; coolant flush and changes, extensive idling, filters, PCV valve, etc.
This is by Ford;
Idling the engine for extended periods will accumulate
more hours of use on the vehicle than actually indicated by the mileage odometer. Consequently,
the odometer reading can be misleading when determining the right time to change engine oil and filter.
If the vehicle is used in a manner that allows it to remain stationary while the engine is running for long periods (door-to-door delivery, power/utility company trucks or similar duty), then Ford recommends increasing frequency of oil and filter changes to an interval equivalent to 200 engine hours of use. Since most vehicles are not equipped with hourmeters, it may be necessary to approximate idle time and plan oil/filter changes accordingly.
Follow the Normal Schedule for most normal everyday driving conditions.
Follow the Severe-Duty Schedule if driving habits frequently include one or more of the following conditions:
towing a trailer or carrying a heavy load
operating in severe dust conditions
extensive idling such as door-to-door delivery service
snowplowing
off-road operation
short trips of less than 10 miles (16 km) when outside temperatures remain below -18°C (0°F)
Here is the
96 Maintenance and Lubrication Section from 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)
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We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed, etc.. using Ford's severe duty schedule.
One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).
Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.
Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet® Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford
- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing
- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive & $$$ patch or full panel replacements...
check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass
- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
- ball joints.. costly if not DIY
- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96), make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds; most get yard units for DIY
- look for some maint records or contact a dealer to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership in the past (need VIN)
or on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.
If no maint records are avail; check and replace if needed all filters and fluids.
Esp if it is an Auto tranny; fluid level; when at norm op temp; after running thru all gears & reverse; no burnt toast or whitish (water) deposits on dip stick.
- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com
- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
- body mounts and frame rust
For a 96 get it checked for codes free at Parts Stores if you don't diy;
For pre 96 with EFI do a SELF TEST - my pal BroncoJoe at
a Self Test by BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded
do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first & Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion
The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 85-86 EFI trucks; miesk5 NOTE, Self-Test Output (STO) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual), release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually usually a broken travel stop or the motor connector is fouled, etc.
Also the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.
Same for Amber ABS lamp in Instr Panel.. The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system is self monitoring. When the ignition switch is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations.
In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service. Our module blew the micropprcessors two years ago and two yard modules were bad..No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.
Suggest you buy the official FORD Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manualon CD (for later years such as 92-96) from E bay; it is the BEST thAng you can get to service and repair your Bronco!
Also, Helms is Ford's Official Publisher for Ford Service Manuals, Owner Manuals, ETMs, Wiring Diagrams,
Service Bulletins, etc.
http://www.helminc.com
Look for these on the ww; ensure it is by Ford and not a Chilton
GL on the Search!
