hesitation misfire trans shifting problems

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Devil Dog08

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hey everyone just got done reading Buck 45 problems he was havtng with his truck .this is the same problem my truck is having with the shifting problem and now it is hesitating. it ended up being a bad distubitor. very interesting post and very detailed answer by miesk . in one part of his post he noted that when the SPOUT was disconnected the problem went away. i want to try this on my truck to see if my problem goes away .i just cant figure out what is a SPOUT.and where is it located......break this word down for me please.thanks

 
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BroncoJoe19

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SPark OUTput = SPOUT

There is a gray connector usually near the distributor, that needs to be disconected when you are setting your timing.

I believe that I have a picture of one

SPOUT.jpg

 
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Devil Dog08

Devil Dog08

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thanks so much for this info.. im just like pulling my hair out trying to get my truck running right again .

 

BroncoJoe19

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why don't you post what your issues are?

Did you pull diagnostic codes for it?

if so, what are they?

 

miesk5

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YO,

I think Dog has a 95, if so, the SPOUT is located near driver's side hood hinge instead of @ distributor (in earlier years);

selftest02.gif


Location Diagram (near driver's side hood hinge) in 92-96

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

the article I posted in another thread refers back to this Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211 TSB 95-15-11 for 93-95 (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT) Source: by Ford via Chilton

ISSUE: '93-95 light truck vehicles with 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, or 7.5L gas engines may exhibit various driveability symptoms, such as no start, no spark, hesitation/stumble/stall/miss and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211. The symptoms may occur during any drive mode or at idle. These concerns may be caused by the shielding drain wire (Circuit 48.) cutting through the insulation of, and shorting to, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) wire (Circuit 395) or the spark output (SPOUT) wire (Circuit 929) near the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 60-pin connector. A protruding wire from Splice 145 may also cause the same concern as the wire strand shorts to the PIP, SPOUT, or the foil wrap surrounding the drain wire.

ACTION: Inspect PIP - Circuit 395 (GY/O), Ignition Ground (IGN GND) - Circuit 259 (O/R), and SPOUT - Circuit 929 (PK) for possible cut insulation from Circuit 48. Also, inspect Splice 145 - Circuit 395 (GY/O) for stray wire strands. If wire insulation is cut, exposing copper wire, repair cut insulation with 3M Mastic Tape. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

2. If vehicle has the speed control option, remove the speed control servo bracket and position it out of the way for improved access.

3. Disconnect the connector at the Ignition Control Module (ICM - formerly TFI).

4. Unbolt the 60-pin connector from the PCM and pull the wiring up to work on.

5. Remove the 1" (25.4mm) diameter convoluted tubing from the wiring assembly. The date code tag will remain taped to the convoluted tubing.

6. Remove/cut the tape of the wiring assembly. Work toward the the ICM connector (pull back convoluted tubing as needed).

7. Unravel aluminum foil tape and electrical drain wire (Circuit 48.) from main bundle, exposing the junction or "Y" branch between the ICM tapeout and the PCM tapeout. Be careful with the foil wrap because it will be reused.

NOTE: THE FOIL WRAP LENGTH WILL BE ABOUT 5" (127mm) BEYOND THE "Y" BRANCH. THE END WILL BE TOWARD THE ICM CONNECTOR.

8. After the foil wrap is removed, look for the three (3) "grouped" wires in question at the "Y" branch. The three (3) wires are: PIP - Circuit 395 (GY/O), IGN GND - Circuit 259 (O/R), and SPOUT - Circuit 929 (PK).

9. Locate the (bare) electrical drain wire. Wire end is toward the ICM connector, again, about 5" (127mm) from the "Y" branch. Unravel wire from the top (ICM) end and down to the area where the bare wire makes contact with the three (3) wires mentioned above.

10. Inspect for any damage to the insulation of the three (3) wires in question. If wire insulation is cut, exposing copper wire, repair cut insulation with 3M Electrical Moisture Sealant-Mastic Tape (3M Part No. 054007-06147).

11. Inspect Splice 145 - Circuit 395 (GY/O) for stray wire strands (Figure 3). If stray wire is found, apply pressure on the wire with pliers to bend the wire down and wrap the splice with three (3) layers of flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent, to ensure the wire does not make contact with other wires or the foil wrap.

12. Carefully rewrap the bare electrical drain wire and foil. Work backward, toward the ICM connector end. Tape end of foil wrap to secure.

13. Retape worked area securely (between PCM and ICM connectors) with flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent.

14. Reinstall all convoluted tubing and tape ends of tubing to the tubing with flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent.

15. Reinstall PCM connector to the PCM.

16. Reinstall the ICM connector.

17. Reinstall the speed control servo bracket (two bolts) if applicable, and tighten bolts to 15-18 N-m (11-13 lb-ft).

18. Reconnect battery ground cable. -

See the TSB LINK for the diagrams

===========

 

BroncoJoe19

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Thanks miesk5,

I sensed that I was coming late to the party because the way the post was written he appeared to assume that we were familiar with his truck, its issues and what he had done to troubleshoot it.

You've got a good memory. :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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Devil Dog08

Devil Dog08

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why don't you post what your issues are?

Did you pull diagnostic codes for it?

if so, what are they?

im sorry . i meant to continue a thread i had . my truck started giving me a buck. a feeling likethe truck downshifted but it was a hard shift any time i was crusing and hit the passing gear . this only happened on inclines nnow it seems the problem is getting worse i have low power and when im going about 20-30 mph it seems like it s going through all the gears and trying to find the right one . i replaced the MLPS on the trans put in a new EGR valve no codes were present the check engine light is NOT on . and the OD button on the shifter is NOT blinking. . after reading BUCK 45 post im just wondering if the dist.or spout is causing this problem . im going to pull the spout today and post the results today. .if the problem goes away is it OK to run the truck without it? thanks again guys be safe.. 95 full size 5.8 131000

 

binsol

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i have a 1988 ford full size bronco. the obvious reason for this post is the problems its giving me. while accelerating i'm also experiencing a bucking feeling. and at times while going from fourth gear into neutral the engine will stay revving in the 2500 or sometimes start low and rev its way up to 2500 until i tap the gas pedal then it'll slowly decelerate. can some one help me with this problem?

 

BroncoJoe19

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binsol, Please start a new thread on your issue. It is beter that way so that we don't get confused.

Devil dog,

IF it is bucking, maybe you need a tuneup? Think back, when were the plugs cap and rotor changed?

Are the wires in good shape? Spray them with a bit of water and see if any sparks jump, or listen to hear if it runs rougher.

Look, and LISTEN for vacuum leaks, they can cause your symptoms without immediatedly setting the CEL or throwing a code.

 

miesk5

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Dog,

Were both KOEO & KOER portions of the self test done w/eng @ normal op temp for both?

Check to see if the spout connector is good by running a piece of wire where the connector is supposed to go. If that doesn't help any try checking the wiring all the way untill it goes into the connectors.

Did you read the TSB info I posted?

ISSUE: '93-95 light truck vehicles with 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, or 7.5L gas engines may exhibit various driveability symptoms, such as no start, no spark, hesitation/stumble/stall/miss and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211. The symptoms may occur during any drive mode or at idle. These concerns may be caused by the shielding drain... etc.

Check that TSB out first.

 

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