Front End Wobble
- Thread starter BigBear
- Start date
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First reaction is that you have bump steer. What size lift (if any) do you have? Have you altered the steering in any way? Give the specs on your rig...lift size, steering linkage setup, etc. That information is important as to determining the problem.
This one is obvious but check tire pressures. I would then jack up front end and check for play in each front wheel (possible bearing wearing out). Look at the bushings in the tie rod, drag link, etc. These may need replacing. This is just a start!
Absolutely.., what S bolt said..,
It's a guessing game at best...even with ALL the info. on your truck.
A wheel out of bal. could amplify a serious steering issue.
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What TX said.......! >
It's a guessing game at best...even with ALL the info. on your truck.
A wheel out of bal. could amplify a serious steering issue.
-------&---------
What TX said.......! >
you said drove it for the first time. How long have those tires been sitting there with the weight of the truck on them. check tire balance and see if there still round. If thats not the case look for worn C-bushings, Radius arm bushings, track bar bushings, bad ball joints or king pin bushings what ever front end you have, and wheel bearings. If all of thats in good shape your track bar and drag link need to be parrallel with each other
STLKIKN
New member
Shake ALL the time... tires out of round or out of balance, lug nuts loose...
Full steering inspection....
" sloppy " steering can be caused by a multitude of problems...
some are cheap fixes, some can become costly...
This is a list of things to check BEFORE attempting to adjust your steering box.
what condition are the radius arm bushings in
are all four "c" bushings in place (79 and prior)
if you have a two or three piece steering shaft, what condition are the joints in
drag link end and tie rod end play
ball joint condition
wheel bearing adjustment
track bar bushing condition (solid axle only)
toe in adjustment
tire pressures
tire condition
steering stabilizer condition
loose steering box to frame bolts ( quite common on EB's with larger tires)
is the sector shaft in the steering box "jumping" up and down...
(this would require the previously mentioned adjustment, NOT recommended for the novice wrench turner)
Twin Traction Beam bushings
It is fairly common for 80 and newer Fords to have cracks/ break in or at the engine crossmember or the frame
where the crossmember mounts, a tire on the ground "wiggle" can be used to check these areas.
These items will require two people to check,
the tie rod ,drag link,sector shaft,and all bushings can be checked by having a friend sit in the truck and "wiggle" the steering wheel back and forth about 1/2" each direction, carefully watch each joint or bushing and look for play at each piece, for the steering box to move on the frame, or for the sector shaft to "jump" up and down ( the sector is the piece of the steering box that the pitman arm bolts onto.)
The ball joints and wheel bearings can be checked by jacking under the diff until there is a couple of inches under the tire,( use a jack stand to support the truck) grab the tire at 12 and 6, feel for top to bottom movement ( in and out) at the places you've grabbed. If you can't feel movement, the wheel bearings are ok.
Have a friend do this so you can watch the ball joints... do the same top/bottom "wiggle":
movement in the ball joints indicates wear.
Get a two or three foot lever ( steel bar works well) put it under the tire ( make sure the truck is still secure on the jack stand) gently lift the bar while watching the ball joints for movement, allow the tire to drop all the way between lifts,
up/ down movement in the ball joints indicates wear.
Toe in can be checked by measuring the difference between the centre of the tread on the front and back of the tires across the truck. Measure the tires at the same level to get an accurate measurement. The difference is your "toe-in".
Depending on your tire size, this should be anywhere from 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch.
To check your steering stabilizer, simply unbolt one end of it, see if it extends and collapses using the same amount of force each way. It should have a steady resistance all the way through its travel in either direction, without being harder one way or the other.
One other item to check while your truck is in the air is the axle u-joint, lock the hub, turn the steering to full lock ( either direction) and turn the tire. If you feel a tight spot as the wheel turns, make note of where the grease zerk is, if during the next rotation, the same resistance is felt at the same point in rotation, you have a bad axle u-joint. If you change an axle u-joint DON'T forget to grease the spindle bearings!!!
Good luck in doing your inspection... if you find any thing that you feel is worn, make a note of it and take it to your local shop, most places around here will do a
steering inspection like this for about 1/2 hours labor.
Full steering inspection....
" sloppy " steering can be caused by a multitude of problems...
some are cheap fixes, some can become costly...
This is a list of things to check BEFORE attempting to adjust your steering box.
what condition are the radius arm bushings in
are all four "c" bushings in place (79 and prior)
if you have a two or three piece steering shaft, what condition are the joints in
drag link end and tie rod end play
ball joint condition
wheel bearing adjustment
track bar bushing condition (solid axle only)
toe in adjustment
tire pressures
tire condition
steering stabilizer condition
loose steering box to frame bolts ( quite common on EB's with larger tires)
is the sector shaft in the steering box "jumping" up and down...
(this would require the previously mentioned adjustment, NOT recommended for the novice wrench turner)
Twin Traction Beam bushings
It is fairly common for 80 and newer Fords to have cracks/ break in or at the engine crossmember or the frame
where the crossmember mounts, a tire on the ground "wiggle" can be used to check these areas.
These items will require two people to check,
the tie rod ,drag link,sector shaft,and all bushings can be checked by having a friend sit in the truck and "wiggle" the steering wheel back and forth about 1/2" each direction, carefully watch each joint or bushing and look for play at each piece, for the steering box to move on the frame, or for the sector shaft to "jump" up and down ( the sector is the piece of the steering box that the pitman arm bolts onto.)
The ball joints and wheel bearings can be checked by jacking under the diff until there is a couple of inches under the tire,( use a jack stand to support the truck) grab the tire at 12 and 6, feel for top to bottom movement ( in and out) at the places you've grabbed. If you can't feel movement, the wheel bearings are ok.
Have a friend do this so you can watch the ball joints... do the same top/bottom "wiggle":
movement in the ball joints indicates wear.
Get a two or three foot lever ( steel bar works well) put it under the tire ( make sure the truck is still secure on the jack stand) gently lift the bar while watching the ball joints for movement, allow the tire to drop all the way between lifts,
up/ down movement in the ball joints indicates wear.
Toe in can be checked by measuring the difference between the centre of the tread on the front and back of the tires across the truck. Measure the tires at the same level to get an accurate measurement. The difference is your "toe-in".
Depending on your tire size, this should be anywhere from 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch.
To check your steering stabilizer, simply unbolt one end of it, see if it extends and collapses using the same amount of force each way. It should have a steady resistance all the way through its travel in either direction, without being harder one way or the other.
One other item to check while your truck is in the air is the axle u-joint, lock the hub, turn the steering to full lock ( either direction) and turn the tire. If you feel a tight spot as the wheel turns, make note of where the grease zerk is, if during the next rotation, the same resistance is felt at the same point in rotation, you have a bad axle u-joint. If you change an axle u-joint DON'T forget to grease the spindle bearings!!!
Good luck in doing your inspection... if you find any thing that you feel is worn, make a note of it and take it to your local shop, most places around here will do a
steering inspection like this for about 1/2 hours labor.
bigbluebronc
New member
Ya what he said but if your an EB owner you should be able too do a good inspection with jack and jack stands. Find the loose parts and replace bushings and readjust bad parts, Its not likely it is the steering box(last place too look). track bar and steering bushings are most likely the cause.
