factory setting for idle ***** please help

[chris the redneck]

ive been tryin to figure out why my truck has a very low idle and dies. i asked my dad why it may do that and he said check the idle *****. i looked and its obvious that the ***** has been moved because the head is snapped off and theres plier marks from someone tryin to turn it. im gonna get a new ***** but does anyone know what the ***** is set at from the factory?

 

[Seabronc]

Are you talking about the idle mixture ****** the cold idle adjustment ***** or the hot idle ***** on the driver side that the pedal linkage attaches to?

 

[chris the redneck]

i assume its the hot cuz its on the drivers side

 

[Seabronc]

First get a replacement ****** you should be able to get one from a parts supply that handles Holley carbs.

For an automatic transmission

Assuming no one has messed with the cold idle ***** on the passenger side, (hard to get at), or the idle mixture. You can run it in until the engine will idle while in park, usually around 1100 RPM, (engine at normal operating temperature), (turn ***** clock wise to increase idle RPM). Next you will have to adjust it till the engine idles around 500 - 600 RPM in drive, (Chock the wheels, put on the emergency brake and have someone in the truck with their foot solidly on the brakes, if you have life insurance make sure it is not the beneficiary /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> ). Once you get it to idle without stalling in drive, you will need to road test and probably play have with it a little so it doesn't stall when stopping.

For a stick shift adjusting it to around 450 - 500 when not in gear should do.

Good luck,

 

[laborrega]

HAHAHAHAHAHA

"...have someone in the truck with their foot solidly on the brakes, if you have life insurance make sure it is not the beneficiary"

 

[chris the redneck]

lol thanks im gonna give it a shot tomorrow

 

[BroncoJoe19]

In an '89, don't you have EFI?

 

[Seabronc]

In an '89, don't you have EFI?

:blush: I think you are right, guess it will be hard to find /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . Can't get my head out of carbs He never did challange me on that response :blink:

 

[miesk5]

yo,

I think you may end up w/headaches tring to re-set that scew; so a yard throttle body may be an option dowen da road.

BUT, maybe you and dad can go thru this and get er done.

Idle Speed Adjustment in Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-25-07 for 85-92 Bronco & F Series & many others; "...Detailed application charts for throttle body and idle air by-pass solenoid service procedures by engine VIN #/engine displacement/vehicle application and model year are shown. Refer to these charts to see if the service kit is to be installed and which service cleaning procedure, if any, is to be used..." by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Idle Speed Check & Adjustment Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Idle Speed Adjustment in Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-25-07 for 85-92 Bronco & F Series & many others; "...I have spent some time this week trying to set up an air bypass around the IAC valve by cutting away some of the gasket between the IAC in and out air holes, rather than pay big bucks for Fords spacer kit. I cut away the center of the original IAC gasket from the outside of each hole to the outside of the other hole, giving about 1/2" gap for the air to pass through. I noticed an immediate improvement in the engines starting behavior, but it would still die occasionally. For most of my trucks life it has been dying when it was started hot. It would rev up and then drop the idle so low it would die unless I would catch the idle with the accelerator. It would never die when cold as the IAC would keep the idle speed up, and it never died at stop lights. Now it's worst situation seems to be when it has been shut down for a half hour or so, and restarted. I wonder if the heat soak is fooling the ETC into thinking the engine is warmer than it really is. I decided that more improvement could be had if I had a thicker gasket, because the original IAC gasket was very thin (0.018"). I had some 0.030" gasket material so I made my own with the same 1/2" cut out. This gave enough bypass to noticeably raise the idle speed and almost eliminate the dying. After maybe 50 starts in the last few days, it only died twice. After so many years of catching it with the accelerator it is darned hard to leave my foot off it. It is clear to me that by trial and error one can tune the air bypass without the need for the expensive Ford kit. I may combine the two gaskets for more bypass, but the idle is about as fast as I would want now, especially for driving in snow..."; miesk5 Note, Tomco makes an idle plate P/N 8491 = to Ford, P/N F2PZ9F939A; Like Ford’s service kit, Tomco’s spacer plat e (arrow) is installed between the air bypass valve and its mounting boss using two gaskets. The two holes in the plate are for bleeder screws, which provide a minimum air rate adjustment independent of the throttle opening.

Source: by Nelbur at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

more info LINKs in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=425

including;

Throttle Body

Cleaning

Coolant Line From Radiator to Throttle Body

Depiction & Overview in an 89 4.9; "...The fuel charging assembly controls air/fuel ratio. It consists of a butterfly valve throttle body. It has bore(s) without venturis. The throttle shaft and valves control engine air flow based on driver demand. The throttle body attaches to the intake manifold mounting pad. throttle position sensor is attached to the throttle shaft. It includes a potentiometer that electrically senses throttle opening. Some vehicles incorporate a throttle kicker solenoid fastens opposite the throttle position sensor. During air conditioning operation, the solenoid extends to slightly increase engine idle speed..." Source: by Ford via ChiltonRemoval Info

 

[Elmo]

Some one please correct me if i am misguided but that ***** does not have a head on it from the factory for the express reason that it shouldnt need adjusting. If i am not mistaken, which does happen often, the ***** may have a slot in it but doesnot actualy have a haed on it like one would expect to see.