Drivetrain ticking

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Krafty

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mine screwed the front u joint and it welded its self to the h yoke of the dc cv shaft, and this in turn screwed alot of other things up, the tranny mount wouldn't caus ethe clicking, it would cause a serious twist and jump on a take off. just be sure the tick is gone when you get it back, cause you might still have a bearing issue in the joint. after all these issues in teh winter, my tranny mount broke in the middle of the summer, so I know what the difference is.

 
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90windsor

90windsor

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mine screwed the front u joint and it welded its self to the h yoke of the dc cv shaft, and this in turn screwed alot of other things up, the tranny mount wouldn't caus ethe clicking, it would cause a serious twist and jump on a take off. just be sure the tick is gone when you get it back, cause you might still have a bearing issue in the joint. after all these issues in teh winter, my tranny mount broke in the middle of the summer, so I know what the difference is.

yeah, i know what you mean. the alignment shop said they do not want to do the DC joints bc they are "too hard." i called my local mechanic, told him what needed to be done, and he said hes done them before and he will check the bearing/yolk with the springs in the middle of the DC, but hes had good luck with them in the past and been able to do them without it falling apart, but he said it may be rusting and that may be causing the noise also.

i should have all new u joints then, considering the one on the dif side of the front driveshaft is new, and the one on the dif. side of the rear driveshaft is new, he will be replacing the 3 on the t-case (1 in front shaft, 2 in double-cardan). so i should be good. and the new trans mount.

and i have noticed the noise from the broken trans mount when putting it into D or reverse. i can feel it shifting around in there, its been like that for some time, never figured out what it was, i thought it was a motor mount but they were fine. (i remember when i broke it... burnouts lol ^_^ /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> )

 

bobstrat

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yeah i wish. he said its 40 bucks for the new assembly with the new center yoke/bearing if it happens to be rusted.
is that with both u joints as well? that doesn't seem like a bad price. mine was pretty well worn and many of the needle bearings were no longer in one piece.

 
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90windsor

90windsor

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is that with both u joints as well? that doesn't seem like a bad price. mine was pretty well worn and many of the needle bearings were no longer in one piece.
no thats the whole DC assembly. im gonna have him get the unlimited liftime u-joints gauranteed to stay lubed for life. only ten bucks more than the normal ones.

 

Krafty

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Id personally look into tryign to get it swapped to a regular 2 u-joint slip shaft as oppesed to the cv shaft. it just means you have to take a front shaft out of a f 150 and yoke with the same spline count out of a scrap yard, toss in two new u-joints and put it in the rear for your bronco, thats what i did, I have no issue with excessive u-joint wear, it may be a bit much for a truck with a 6" or more suspension lift but for 4" or less no issues.

 

bobstrat

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Id personally look into tryign to get it swapped to a regular 2 u-joint slip shaft as oppesed to the cv shaft. it just means you have to take a front shaft out of a f 150 and yoke with the same spline count out of a scrap yard, toss in two new u-joints and put it in the rear for your bronco, thats what i did, I have no issue with excessive u-joint wear, it may be a bit much for a truck with a 6" or more suspension lift but for 4" or less no issues.

stored in memory, thanks

 

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