Drivetrain ticking

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90windsor

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I get a clicking/ticking that goes faster as the truck goes faster. I just put my 6 inch RC lift on and have driven about 50 miles on it and its been doing this. it has ALL new u-joints in front and rear.

When i am coasting it does not do it until it comes back down to about 5mph while braking. so it will click while accelerating up to 40, then stop while on the brakes until about 5-0 mph.

i cant figure out what it is. truck still runs and drives fine, 4wd shifts in and out fine, so i do not think its the t-case.

altough its annoying and i feel like by driving it i am hurting something

a few monthes ago i had also threw my driveshaft while breaking the u-joint on the rear diff, so the slip-joint is greased although when the driveshaft went the dust boot ripped in half so thats all thats on the driveshaft, and since it is lifted, i can see the blue threads. i really do not think this is the problem, since i just greased the **** outta it

any suggestions? thanks

 
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Justshootme84

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Check that the rear axle pinion yoke is pointing up at the t-case rear output yoke. the driveshaft should be close to straight in at the rear axle yoke. Ideal is to be 1-2 degrees below the axle yoke, so when you aplly power and the axle wraps up, the driveshaft is coming straight into the yoke. If the angle is off more than that, it puts the u-joint in a bind. To correct a bad angle, you need to use shims or wegdes under the springs. Be sure the leaf spring u-bolts are tight, too. If you need a pic to help explain the set-up, let me know. JSM84

transxmbrmod-003.jpg

 
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90windsor

90windsor

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Check that the rear axle pinion yoke is pointing up at the t-case rear output yoke. the driveshaft should be close to straight in at the rear axle yoke. Ideal is to be 1-2 degrees below the axle yoke, so when you aplly power and the axle wraps up, the driveshaft is coming straight into the yoke. If the angle is off more than that, it puts the u-joint in a bind. To correct a bad angle, you need to use shims or wegdes under the springs. Be sure the leaf spring u-bolts are tight, too. If you need a pic to help explain the set-up, let me know. JSM84
transxmbrmod-003.jpg
the pinoin angle looks good to me, and the sound is coming from the double cardan joint(i think thats what it is called). the two u-jounts on the t-case.

 

Krafty

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I had a problem like that with mine after a massive set of rear driveshaft failures, my one yoke of the cv that is fixed to the shaft at the h yoke was bad and caused my problem, I eventually put the front shaft in the rear cause it doesn't have the cv. I put my rear shaft in the front. but it is a little to short and the slip yoke gets sloppy above 60km's, I got another front shaft I just need a new transfer case front yoke caused I had to swap those for the shaft change.

 
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90windsor

90windsor

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both my front and rear have a cv/slip joint/boot. it seems like its getting worse and its bothering me. i really dont have any more money to sink into this truck, i just dont wanna break anything else.

 
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Justshootme84

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IF the noise is coming from the DC joint, then it could be bad or worn out. While building that sqaure tubing driveshaft, i tore down the front driveshaft off the 86 Bronco to get that section. the center yoke where the ball bearing and spring go was totally crapped out, and came out in pieces. I was able to use the new DC joint from the F-350 driveshaft. That one cost me $300 and change to have rebuilt at a driveline shop, since those DC u-joints are often alot higher than the end ones. JSM84

 
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90windsor

90windsor

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IF the noise is coming from the DC joint, then it could be bad or worn out. While building that sqaure tubing driveshaft, i tore down the front driveshaft off the 86 Bronco to get that section. the center yoke where the ball bearing and spring go was totally crapped out, and came out in pieces. I was able to use the new DC joint from the F-350 driveshaft. That one cost me $300 and change to have rebuilt at a driveline shop, since those DC u-joints are often alot higher than the end ones. JSM84
how would i be able to tell? i could take a few pics tomarrow if that would help?

thanks

 

Justshootme84

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I could tell the DC joint was bad because it was real sloppy loose. YOu'll have to remove the driveshaft from the t-case yoke/ ******. Try moving the DC joint around in all directions, checking for any binding, JSM84

 
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90windsor

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This is exactly what it sounds like: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/218593

<embed src="http://www.supermotors.net/includes/video/player.swf" width="480" height="326" bgcolor="#ffffff" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" flashvars="file=http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/218593/flv/21/218593.flv&image=http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/218593/fst/218593f.jpg&aboutlink=http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/218593&abouttext=See this video at SuperMotors.net" />

(the clunking towards end of video, not the squeeking)

 
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90windsor

90windsor

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i'd find a u pull it and find another shaft for the time being. i picked one up for $20 after i snapped a yoke replacing the u joints.

did yours come with the double cardan and all the u-joint in it, basically all you needed to do was unbolt the 4 bollts on the two end mounts drop the shaft, and bolt the new one back in?

 

bobstrat

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yup, i got it from end to end. i think i'll take the old one somewhere and have it re-done but for now i'm mobile again.

** be careful though, alot of places carry them around on forklifts, check it for fork damage before you take one off**

 
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bobstrat

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hey, i'm not trying to bust your balls, but i just went back and re- read your OP to see if you mentioned which transfer case you have. you added a 6" lift, did you have to adjust the rear at all, as jsm84 mentioned you might? his answer is one i'd make sure is right before i changed any parts.

 
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Justshootme84

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After watching the video, i would still suspect some kind of slack in the driveshaft. Course, it's hard to tell without being in the seat! Did you try moving the driveshaft while it's bolted up? Sometimes you can find a bad u-joint that way, others it takes pulling the ds out.

A very important safety tip since you have a 6" lift, While in most cases you do not need to lengthen the rear ds, it's a good idea to check that you have enough of the splines on the slipshaft engaged when at full droop, or when the rear supension flexes to it's limit, You can do this by jacking up the frame in back, until the tires come off the ground. With jack stands under the frame, make a mark where the slipshaft is at. Then take the ds apart and see that you have at least 2" minimum left to go.

 
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90windsor

90windsor

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yup, i got it from end to end. i think i'll take the old one somewhere and have it re-done but for now i'm mobile again.
** be careful though, alot of places carry them around on forklifts, check it for fork damage before you take one off**

yes i turned the rear end slightly up to fix the pinoin angle.

thanks

 
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90windsor

90windsor

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After watching the video, i would still suspect some kind of slack in the driveshaft. Course, it's hard to tell without being in the seat! Did you try moving the driveshaft while it's bolted up? Sometimes you can find a bad u-joint that way, others it takes pulling the ds out.
A very important safety tip since you have a 6" lift, While in most cases you do not need to lengthen the rear ds, it's a good idea to check that you have enough of the splines on the slipshaft engaged when at full droop, or when the rear supension flexes to it's limit, You can do this by jacking up the frame in back, until the tires come off the ground. With jack stands under the frame, make a mark where the slipshaft is at. Then take the ds apart and see that you have at least 2" minimum left to go.
ill give it a try

thanks for your help

 
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90windsor

90windsor

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its at the alginment shop right now and they said i have a broken trans mount thats making the clunking and the u joints in the d/c are shot

 

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