Brake Assembly...WARPED/SHIFTED?

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ThouBeezy

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So, new problem...noticed some rear grinding after purchasing the 88 beast...

Removed both drums, and R/R had some one "chunked" up shoes (but looked to be only 6 mos old). So, went down to autozone...got some new shoes for both rear drums.

Hooked everything up, correctly...checked multiple times on other drum, adjusted brake adj ***** everywhich way it would go and cannont get the damn drum on.

So, took the old pair of shoes of the other side, tried on the side that the drum was not fitting, and still no give...

Went back to autozone, tried a different set of shoes, still cant get the drum to fit.

Had to use the bronco, so removed the park brake strut and spring and WHAM, perfect fit. Brakes seem to be working great, but im worried what damage can be done with removing this in the long term other than having to set the parking brake, and if its set from time to time, can that do more damage (perhaps if had to be set on a hill).

Thanks be4hand!

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo!

check to see if your parking brake cable is frozen

could it be a frozen wheel cylinder?

see how far out the pistons in d cylinders are out & see if you can push them in

hit both sides of the brake shoes with your hand flat ensure that da itis centered

brake-parking-action.jpg

Parking Brake Action

The basic components of the rear parking brake are shown. A cable from the foot pedal or parking brake lever enters through a hole in the backing plate. It is attached to the end of the lever arm. The other end of the lever is attached to a pivot point on the primary shoe. There is a connecting link between the lever and the secondary shoe. Finally, there is a cable return spring (and rattle preventer) at the secondary shoe end of the connecting link.

When the parking brakes are applied, the lever pivots at the pivot point on the primary shoe. Because of the connecting link between the lever and the secondary shoe, the shoes move apart as the lever is activated. The pivot point moves one way, and the connecting link the other. This pushes the shoes tight against the drum and holds the vehicle as long as tension is maintained.

When the parking brake is released the primary and secondary return springs return the shoes to their normal position. The cable return spring pushes the connecting link back against the lever. The movement of the lever takes up any slack in the parking brake cable.

This is just one of several systems for activating the parking brakes. Other systems use a cam-type lever located directly between the primary and secondary shoes in the vicinity of the anchor pin.

In most Ford light trucks, the parking brakes are activated by a foot pedal. However, some motor homes and step vans use a Orscheln lever in place of the foot pedal.

The major service concern occurs when the components fail to retract properly. This may result in brake drag, overheating and excessive lining wear.

Proper parking brake cable tension is essential for good performance. The old way of adjusting this tension was to release the parking brake and tighten the cable until the brakes were just about to engage. A better way is to fully apply the parking brake and check the tension of the cable. There are two ways to do this: Using a tension gauge or observing the "bent pin" automatic adjuster.

If you use a tension gauge, check the appropriate service manual for the proper tension. If you don't have a tension gauge, you can make a visual check of the "bent pin" connection at the adjusting point in the parking brake cable. The "bent pin" is attached to the cable from the foot pedal by the coupling cap. The pin turns around a pivot in the tension limiter housing. The open end of the pin has a hook, as shown in the inset. This hook prevents the pin from pulling around the pivot point completely during its service life.

Apply the parking brake, making sure that the pedal is at full travel. Slightly tighten the equalizer nut. If the nail doesn't pull, the tension is not sufficient. Tightening the equalizer nut until the nail does pull will set the correct tension. Follow the instructions in the appropriate service manual

-----------------

Autoadjuster Action

Self-adjustment takes place in two steps when the vehicle is driven in reverse and stopped with the brakes. Self-adjustment does not take place when the vehicle is backed up and allowed to roll to a stop.

The components of the self-adjustment system are shown in the illustration. The self-adjusting lever does the work. It engages the teeth of the star wheel. A cable is attached to the lever. This cable passes around a guide on the secondary shoe and is attached to the anchor pin. A return spring is also attached to the lever. The other end of the return spring is attached to the primary shoe.

When the brakes are applied while traveling in reverse, the friction forces drag the brake shoes in the direction of rotation. This action is similar to the action in normal braking, only in reverse. The movement of the secondary shoe puts tension on the cable and rotates the adjusting lever upward so that it now rests on the next tooth up on the star wheel.

When braking is completed, the shoes move back to their normal position. As this happens, the tension on the cable is relaxed. This allows the return spring to force the lever downward, turning the star wheel as it does. Turning the star wheel activates a ***** mechanism in the adjusting pin -- lengthening the pin. As the pin lengthens, the linings of both shoes are moved closer to the drum, compensating for wear.

This simple, mechanical system works well unless the ***** mechanism in the adjusting pin has become corroded. If this is the case, the pin may not turn properly and adjustment may not take place. Also remember that some drivers rarely back up. In this case, sufficient adjustment may not take place. by Ford via Steve

Parking Brake Service Procedure TSB 00-01-03 for Bronco & F Series Built Through 4/22/1994 & Ranger & Explorer Built Through 5/13/1994 (Scroll Down) Source: by Ford via Steve83

 

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