ABS sensors and Stalling?

[B-Cack]

OK, I always seem to get some really good advice from everyone on here, so I have a couple more questions to ask. First of all, has anyone ever replaced the ABS front wheel sensors on their Bronco? I have a 93 and was looking in the Haynes manual, it says that you simply disconnect the wire from the harness assembly, and then remove the one retainer bolt and slide the sensor out. Well, I removed the bolt, but the sensors do not seem to want to budge. Just wondering if there is another type of assembly, I'm sure with my luck that it will require complete removal of the wheel and hub assembly, but just thought I would ask before I did that.

My second question is in regards to the engine at idle. I have recently started to notice the at idle speed it began to idle high ( approximately 2500 RPM ) and would be normal under driving conditions. I replaced the IACV and it seemed to work for about a month, then just recently it began to idle low ( under 1000 RPM at stop lights and then stall out.) Today I replaced the EGR solenoid as well as PCV valve. I cleaned and re oiled my K&N filter and took the old Bronc for a test drive. It seemed to be fine idling, but I did notice once in a while I would press gently on the gas and would get a momentary drop in RPM ( for about half a second) then it would resume operations as normal. So if anyone has any advice on this I would appreciate it, thanks guys

 

[Seabronc]

I can't help you on the first one, but the second problem sounds like a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Also, normal curb idle on an automatic is around 650 RPM, (that is with the truck in Drive and foot on the brake to prevent it from moving). At least that is the way older automatics are set.

Good luck,

>-

 

[BroncoJoe19]

I can't help you on the first one, but the second problem sounds like a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Also, normal curb idle on an automatic is around 650 RPM, (that is with the truck in Drive and foot on the brake to prevent it from moving). At least that is the way older automatics are set.
Good luck,

>-

I agree with SeaBronc that it is quite possibly the TPS.

Should you install it here is a thread on how to adjust it.

Also while you have your throttle body off, you may want to clean it up, and make sure the vacuum ports are clear.

Here is the link to adjusting the TPS.

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=72288

Those two screws allow enough movement to adjust it.

You'll have to pull the throttle body.

Also, when I had mine off, I blew into the two vacuum ports. One of them was a little clogged.

Once I had an intermittant problem that gave me an irratic and low idle until it stalled caused by my MAP sensor, I think that your's has a MAF sensor, that does essentially the same thing. Why don't you pull codes? IT will help to narrow down the problem and hopefully keep you from replacing good parts.

Here is a great article on how to test for codes.

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/files/self_test.pdf

This will be of particualr interest to those with 1984 through 1988 models, but is also excellent for those up to the 1995 models.

 

[broncodriver33]

I replaced both my abs sensors on mine. You will have to take hub apart down to the spindle to get it out, its in there good, and hopefully you aren't planning on reusing it because i had to beat the one out. but once you get the hub assembly off, and your down to the spindle you should see a shining round nickel sized sensor sticking out of a the sensor mount block. you must take that mounting block off and there is a 12point 6mm bolt on the back side holding it on. once you get that block off the sensor if you can. I broke the one block. it will be easier to get the sensor out. i don't know if you need to take the spindle off to get it out or not i had taken the spindle off to do ball joints and a u joint in my front axle. When i did the other side everything came apart much easier because i really soaked it good with WD 40 and PJ blaster or is it Pb blaster cant remeber. but i soaked everything good and let sit for a couple hours. i hope this helps you and good luck.

 

[B-Cack]

Thanks guys, I will try and take a look at the TPS sensor.... Also, I really need to get a code reader.... that would probably save me some money and heartache.. LOL

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Thanks guys, I will try and take a look at the TPS sensor.... Also, I really need to get a code reader.... that would probably save me some money and heartache.. LOL

If you can count to ten you don't need to buy a code reader. I am not sure, but *I think* even if you bought a code reader you will still have to count the flashes on the code reader instead of flashes on the dash.

You posted above that your's is a '93.

Your truck will flash codes to your dash, by blinking the "Check engine light". Essentially you count the blinks for the first digit, and then the blinks for the second digit of a two digit code. IT is easy to do, and it is FREE!

Here is a great article on how to test for codes.

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/files/self_test.pdf

This will be of particualr interest to those with 1984 through 1988 models, but is also excellent for those up to the 1995 models.

 

[Outkast]

the thing about the truck idling at 2500 RPM the same thing happens in my truck it might just be the tac thats off at least thats what it seems like in my truck

 

[shift1313]

your idle problem also may be attributed to the egr. i know you said you replaced the solenoid but you did clean the actual egr valve at the same time? before you start your truck pull the vac line off the egr and stick a small bolt in it to cap it and tie it out of the way then go for a test drive. If the problem is gone then your egr isnt closing all the way once its actuated and allowing hot exhaust gasses to mess up your mixture. If the problem is there all the time(instead of on/off like its happening now) then its possible your egr is already stuck open.

an unusually high idle may be an air leak somewhere. The TB gaskets can get sucked in from time to time(in the center part you cant see) and cause problems.

That being said an idle below 1000rpm is normal, it should be in the 650-750rpm range i would think(besides warmup).

good luck