'90 E4OD wont shift properly

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Hway

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I have a '90 full size with a e4od transmission.I had it running doing 70 that was 2 years ago. I had to let it sit for a bit because of my surgery, then I took it out for a spin and I can't get it above 35 again.
I have changed parts over time.
I have changed the sensor on the pumpkin, changed the speedo gear, changed o2 sensor, alternator and a few others.
I even had it at transmission shop, they said it wasn't getting enough power but it was good.
Then I hit a bump then it was working right.
However since it sat for 3 months I can't get it running right.
 

Tiha

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It sounds like it is an engine issue, not a transmission issue?

Not enough power to get enough speed or rpms to shift? Does that make sense.

Or what is it that makes you think it is the transmission?
 
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Hway

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It sounds like it is an engine issue, not a transmission issue?

Not enough power to get enough speed or rpms to shift? Does that make sense.

Or what is it that makes you think it is the transmission?
The rpms is going high but will not shift. I thought when I took it to the transmission shop it would be transmission. They said it was good but it was the lack of power. I do know in later models a 3rd brake light would make it go in limp mode, so I checked all of my lights and if they were out, I replaced lights.
I'm not a mechanic but I'm willing to try to fix it.
 

Tiha

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Is your speedometer working correctly now?

At one time there was a lot of talk about the MLPS switch retaining water can causing problems. It is the one under the shift linkage on the side of the transmission.
 
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Hway

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Is your speedometer working correctly now?

At one time there was a lot of talk about the MLPS switch retaining water can causing problems. It is the one under the shift linkage on the side of the transmission.
Speedometer is working correctly.
I will recheck the MLPS switch. I replaced it 4 years ago.
 
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Hway

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Ok, so I found my tester and with koeo I was getting code 56.
I cleaned the maf sensor and checked vacuum lines.
Then I cleaned the sensor on transmission passenger side.
Plus cleaned and rechecked the mlps.
Now my rpm needle is bouncing really high and will not come back down to normal no matter what.
So I ran tester again koeo now I'm getting codes 22, 56, 99.
I did koer getting codes 26,44
 

Tiha

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Rpm needle is high, so like the engine is actually running really fast? Or just the electronic gauge is off?

High idle is often caused by vaccum leaks. I suppose a bad MAF could have something to do with that.

One thing you can try is start it up with the MAF unplugged, see how it runs.
 
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Hway

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Ok, so the only code left is 56 with koeo. However now my battery is draining after I turn it off.
The fuses do not have a draw.
 
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did the code 56 resolve? does it feel like it's only shifting thru gears 1 and 2? or is it sluggish and feels like it's starting from 2nd only? how does it behave if you manually shift the lever?
 
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I sort of doubt the maf would entirely cause the transmission to fail to shift past 2nd, given the pcm also watches the vehicle speed sensor, and i think derives a pretty good portion of it's shift strategy from it. think of it this way, if you are rolling down a hill, the maf will show no engine load, but the transmission would still be in 4th gear, less the computer goes into fuel cut to decelerate because the vss is showing that you are going 65mph and you fully let off the gas pedal. the spedometer is not a great rule of thumb to determining a vehicle speed sensor failure because 91/92 was when ford switched to a fully electronic odometer/spedo. if it's got a mechanical odometer still, it's driven by a cable, and will work great even if the vehicle speed sensor is electronically failed. it does verify that the plastic gear is however intact.
 
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Hway

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I sort of doubt the maf would entirely cause the transmission to fail to shift past 2nd, given the pcm also watches the vehicle speed sensor, and i think derives a pretty good portion of it's shift strategy from it. think of it this way, if you are rolling down a hill, the maf will show no engine load, but the transmission would still be in 4th gear, less the computer goes into fuel cut to decelerate because the vss is showing that you are going 65mph and you fully let off the gas pedal. the spedometer is not a great rule of thumb to determining a vehicle speed sensor failure because 91/92 was when ford switched to a fully electronic odometer/spedo. if it's got a mechanical odometer still, it's driven by a cable, and will work great even if the vehicle speed sensor is electronically failed. it does verify that the plastic gear is however intact.
I will have to get back with you maybe in a couple of weeks.
I had a new alternator go out and I also have family medical issues going on. I hope to update soon.
 

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