88 to 86 chassis swap.

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dutchdiesel

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I have the opportunity to buy a 1988 eddie bauer 351W for cheap in holland but would like to swap chassis to 1986 because of tax benefits overhere.

is the chassis from a 86 the same as a 88 or are there a lot of differences?

Every car overhere that is built before jan.1 1987 and 25 years old is free of roadtax and can drive around with oldtimer insurance so thats why i want to swap the chassis.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo

Bronco Frame Dimensions 1992 (other years similar; '92-96 F150 similar)

1992-bronco-frame.jpg

by Ford via Steve83

--------------------

Frame Service - Drilling Precautions

CAUTION: Do not drill holes in the frame flanges. This will reduce the strength of frame (5005).

If a hole must be drilled in the frame, make sure that it meets all of the following requirements:

1. The hole is located in the upper half of the frame.

2. The edge of the drilled hole and the edge of the nearest hole are at least 25mm (1 inch) apart.

3. The edge of the drilled hole is at least 25mm (1 inch) from the edge of the ******.

4. The drilled hole is not adjacent to any other existing brackets or components of frame.

Welding Precautions

CAUTION: Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301) before using any electric welding equipment.

All welding on frame must be done with electric welding equipment, and the heat should be kept in a small area to prevent change in hardness of the metal. Do not use gas welding equipment. A double reinforcement must be added to frames where heat or weld is applied to the area to be repaired. The welds are to run lengthwise along the reinforcement when a reinforcement is to be welded to the frame side rail.

Frame Strength Identification

F-Series, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco all use a 36,000 psi steel frame.

Frame Straightening

Misalignment of frame can be corrected by straightening the out-of-line parts or by replacing the crossmembers, braces, or brackets if they are badly damaged.

WARNING: DO NOT STRAIGHTEN FRONT FRAME RAIL CONVOLUTES.

Straightening should be attempted on frames that fail to meet specifications of the diagonal checking method or where damage is visually apparent.

However, to prevent internal stresses in the metal, frame straightening should be limited to parts that are not severely bent. If heat is needed to straighten a frame member, keep the temperature below 649�C (1200�F) (a dull red glow). Excessive heat may weaken the metal in the frame members and cause permanent damage.

Frame Reinforcing

After a bent frame member has been straightened, inspect the member closely for cracks. If any cracks show, the frame member should be reinforced or replaced.

Reinforcements should be made from angle or flat stock of the same material and thickness as the frame member being reinforced, and should extend a minimum of 152.40mm (6 inches) to either side of the crack. Ideally, the reinforcement should be cut from the corresponding area of a similar frame.

Weld Attachment

To ensure a quality repair, adhere to the following procedure if it is necessary to weld reinforcements to the frame.

1. Wire brush the area around the crack to remove the paint, grease, mud, etc., and to expose the crack completely and ensure good weld adhesion.

2. To stop the crack from spreading, drill a 6.35mm (1/4-inch) hole at a point 12mm (0.50 inch) beyond the root of the crack.

3. Grind out the full length of the crack to the hole to form a V-shaped slot with the base of the V-slot contacting the reinforcement.

4. The base of the V-slot should have at least a 1.52mm (0.06-inch) opening to ensure weld penetration to the reinforcement when welding the crack.

5. Drill clearance holes in the reinforcements to clear rivet heads and bolt heads or nuts where necessary.

6. In the event that repair is required on more than one frame surface (i.e., a ****** crack that extends into the web), two pieces of flat stock (one for each surface) should be utilized and welded together where they join. The web reinforcement should be a minimum of 76.20mm (3.0 inches) high and have a 63.50mm (2.5-inch) radius at each of the two corners.

7. Completely clean the surface of frame under and around the reinforcements.

8. Clamp the reinforcements securely to the frame prior to welding.

9. Weld the reinforcement all around after welding the crack V-slot.

10. The ****** edge weld should be ground smooth after all pit holes have been filled by the weld.

11. If a damaged bolted-on frame bracket is to be replaced, the new bolts, washers, and nuts should be of the same specifications and bolt torques as the original parts.

12. In cases where it is necessary to remove rivets, replace them with Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) nuts, bolts and washers of the next larger size (i.e., for 3/8-inch diameter rivets use 7/16-inch bolts, for 7/16-inch diameter rivets use 1/2-inch bolts). This requires line drilling of the holes to the same diameter as the new bolt (i.e., either 0.437 diameter or 0.500 diameter).

Frame Member Replacement

If a damaged frame member is to be replaced, new bolts, Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) fasteners and rivets required for replacement of parts should be of the same specifications as the original bolts or rivets. In cases where it is necessary to substitute a bolt for a rivet, use the next larger size bolt

(1980-1985) Separate body and frame, box-section welded frame. 3.95 in. section modulus

(1986) Separate body and frame, single channel, 5 cross members, welded frame. 3.66 in. section modulus. Maximum side rail section: 6.95 x 2.12 x 0.170 in.

(1987-1989) Separate body and frame, single channel, 5 cross members, welded frame, 36,000 psi steel. 4.27 in. section modulus. Maximum side rail section: 7.01 x 2.12 x 0.202 in.

(1990-1992) same as 87-89 but also notes low carbon steel

(1993-1996) Separate body and frame, single channel, 5 cross members, welded frame, 3.66 in. section modulus. Maximum side rail section: 6.95 x 2.12 x 0.170 in. low carbon steel

-BurntOrange

 

Seabronc

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I have the opportunity to buy a 1988 eddie bauer 351W for cheap in holland but would like to swap chassis to 1986 because of tax benefits overhere.

is the chassis from a 86 the same as a 88 or are there a lot of differences?

Every car overhere that is built before jan.1 1987 and 25 years old is free of roadtax and can drive around with oldtimer insurance so thats why i want to swap the chassis.
Basically it is the same truck from 80 - 96 with minor changes. An 88 front clip will fit on a 80 - 86 frame so I don't see why the body will not fit also. All the body mounts are in the same location 80 - 96.

Here is a thread worth reading through in reference to the body mounts. I replaced mine and have post in that thread about the problems I experienced. http://broncozone.com/topic/20641-body-mounts/page__p__108578__fromsearch__1entry108578

Good luck,

:)>-

 
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dutchdiesel

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i have to replace the windshield because its cracked so when the windshield is out i can change the vin also.

And a friend of mine opted to cut out the chassisnumber and replace with the 1986 number and vin tag behind the windshield.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo!

First, thanks Fred for letting our friend there have a yes or No reply!

I got caught up in the tech stuff I had laying around here, waiting for someone to use it and forgot the basics...

If it will help in this swap with other parts;

Tailgates; Swapping (t'gate differences between the years); "...Amazingly throughout the number of body style changes from 78 through 96, the tailgate remained nearly the same. You can swap tailgates between all of these years taking note of the following: I've broken down the 3 major changes into their respective years.

78-79 Type A;

80-82 Type B;

83-96 Type C;

If your swapping within the same type it's just a direct swap. If swapping A & B you have to switch the glass and glass support brackets; If swapping B & C you have to switch / latches and striker plates; If swapping A & C you have to switch the glass, glass support brackets, latches & striker plates..."

Source: by Mike M (MRM) at his old medicine.wisc.edu site via web.archive.net

So, you're good to go!

=====

Top, Camper

Swap, between 66-77, 78-79, 80-91, 92-96; "...78-79 fiberglass with integral steel roll bar inside rear lip; sliding or fixed side windows; 80-91 fiberglass with integral steel roll bar inside rear lip; sliding (up to 83) or fixed side windows; 92-96 fiberglass with integral steel roll bar inside rear lip attached to mounting plate & alignment pin; fixed side windows; The only groups that you can interchange are 80-96 with some modifications. 80-83 sliding side windows directly fit 80-96 shells. 78-91 Broncos use 4 short bolts (8mm head, 6x1.00x40mm) on each bedrail & 5 long bolts (8mm head, 6x1.00x70mm) in the upper sections. All bolts thread into U-nuts, except the 2 upper corners & the 2 rear corners which use captive nut plates. The bedrail bolts each use a clip stamped "L" or "R", but the rearmost bolts use the opposite clip. The clips for the B-pillar bolts are not marked, but the smaller tab goes down. 92-96 Broncos use 5 short bolts (tamper T-40 head, 8x1.25x30mm) on each bedrail & 5 long bolts (tamper T-40 head, 8x1.25x60mm) in the upper sections. All bolts thread into U-nuts, except the 2 upper corners & the 4 rear corners which use captive nut plates. The bedrail bolts each use a clip stamped "L" or "R", except the rearmost bolts. The clips for the B-pillar bolts are not marked, but the smaller tab goes down. There are also nut plates in 4 of the camper shell bolt holes: the 2 rearmost, and the 2 outboard at the top of the cab. They're just a heavy plate (1/4"?) with a threaded hole...."; miesk5 NOTE; 92-96 have rear seat shoulder belt mounting points & 3rd brake lights

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

So, you're good to go!

============

Tire Carrier, External;

Swing-Away, Type 1 (78-86); "...Brackets have sharply angled straight corners to match the older body. 87-96 have smoother curves..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/463906

Swing-Away, Type 2 (87-90) pic w/Parts Identification Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

 
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dutchdiesel

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Thanks you guys for the help and miesk5 for explaining a lot.

I dont think i have to worry about tailgates not fitting because all i'm going

to do is swap the complete 88 body onto a 86 chassis and after hearing that

the chassis are exactly the same i think i'm cutting out the 88 chassis number and

putting in the 86 number.

The guys in the garage wont see the difference i think.

And it saves me a lot of time because i have some other stuuf to do to the car

because is is just sitting in the garage for 8 years now.

It has been started regularly dut i'm going to change all of the brakes including the lines

and all of the fuellines aswell.

 

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