1987 Bronco Transmission Problem

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billryder

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I have a 1987, 5.0 liter (302 c.i.), 4X4 full-sized Bronco that very

recently has developed an AOD transmission problem. The problem is

this.

When I'm driving in *either* of the two Drive gears - overdrive-D (or)

regular-D, it won't shift into 3rd gear (unless I've just started

driving and the tranny is relatively cool). Also, when the tranny is

refusing to shift into 3rd, but I keep going a little faster, PAST the

point where it should've shifted into 3rd, then I slightly let off on

the accelerator, then press down on accelerator, I find that the tranny

has shifted into neutral. I then have to wait until I slow down

enough for it to downshift back into 2nd (or sometimes 1st) in order to

get out of neutral.

I know very little about automatic transmissions, so I found THIS site

and forum and have learned quite a bit after reading many pages of

posts. I also went to the HowStuffWorks.com site and learned even

more, BUT, I still have a number of questions that I hope some of you

will have the time to answer. Your effort WILL be appreciated.

This forum told me that my tranny is NOT computer (electronically)

controlled, but instead, was "line pressure" controlled from the

throttle body. The HowStuffWorks site went into a little more detail

and said that my tranny would be controlled by EITHER:

A) a "cable linkage" FROM the (didn't say, but I'm assuming

throttle body) TO the tranny's "throttle valve".

(or)

B) a "vacuum modulator" FROM the (didn't say, but I'm assuming

manifold) TO the tranny's "throttle valve".

So, my first 4 questions are:

1) Which of the above definitely controls MY tranny?

2) Whichever one it is above, is my ""FROM the"" assumption

correct?

3) If it's "B" above, is the "vacuum modulator" (or the path to the

V.M.) a rubber hose, (or) is it metal tubing?

4) If one of the above IS the problem, can *either* one be fixed

WITHOUT removing and opening up the transmission?

A number of transmission repair shops mention a Transmission Diagnostic

Test. I assume that with a computer-controlled tranny, doing a

computer diagnostic could tell you quite a bit about what's going on

inside the tranny, BUT, I would think that with a NON-computer tranny, a

diagostic test would give you very little really helpful info.

So, my next 2 questions are:

5) What are the things a mechanic DOES check during a non-computer

transmission diagnostic test?

6) How much should this test cost me (if the shop doesn't offer it

for free)?

From all of the info I've learned so far, I can only speculate that,

unfortunately, there are a number of things that could be causing my

tranny problem.

Below, I'm repeating the symptoms to my problem that I mentioned at the

beginning of this post. Right after that, I listed some things that

MIGHT be the problem. I would really be interested in your educated

guess as to which one of those is "most likely" my problem.

""When I'm driving in *either* of the two Drive gears - overdrive-D (or)

regular-D, it won't shift into 3rd gear (unless I've just started

driving and the tranny is relatively cool). Also, when the tranny is

refusing to shift into 3rd, but I keep going a little faster, PAST the

point where it should've shifted into 3rd, then I slightly let off on

the accelerator, then press down on accelerator, the tranny will go into

neutral. I then have to wait until I slow down enough for it to

downshift back into 2nd (or sometimes 1st) in order to get out of

neutral.""

Other facts about my transmission:

*** overall, this tranny has had an "easy life".

*** has virtually never towed anything

*** has never been off-road hill (or) rock climbing

*** has had the transmission fluid changed on a regular basis (and) the

current fluid is a nice, bright red color.

*** has never been in a flood

*** is the original tranny, but was overhauled at 95,000 miles for NO

particular reason except that my Dad must have thought a tranny wouldn't

last much over 100,000 miles and didn't want to get stranded way out in

west Texas on one of his hunts. This overhauled tranny has 163,000

miles on it.

7) Which one of the following do YOU think is "most likely" my

problem.

*** The "Cable Linkage" (or) "Vacuum Modulator" is defective,

therefore not giving the tranny the correct engine speed or "load" for

it to be able to shift gears properly.

*** Some of the "Bands" and/or "Clutch Plates" are worn out.

*** The "2-to-3 Shift Valve" is defective and not supplying enough

hydraulic pressure to the bands / clutches.

*** The "Governor" and/or "Throttle Valve" is defective and not

supplying enough tranny fluid pressure to the "2-to-3 Shift Valve".

*** The "Pump" is defective and not supplying enough tranny fluid

to the entire transmission - however, if this were the case, I think I'd

be having other shifting problems.

Two final questions.....

The last time I had the transmission serviced, which was at a Ford

dealership, they did it the "new" way by forcing new fluid into the

tranny and having it "flush out" the old fluid. Unfortunately, by

doing it this way, the filter isn't replaced and the pan isn't checked

for metal particles.

8) What is your opinion of this type of servicing - is it any good

at all?

9) Also, what are the chances a clogged filter could be causing my

problem? Remember though, the problem occurs during only ONE phase of

automatic shifting - from 2nd to 3rd.

Thanks for reading this long post. I'm really looking forward to your

answers.

Bill

 

BRONCFOOT

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Location
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I have a 1987, 5.0 liter (302 c.i.), 4X4 full-sized Bronco that very

recently has developed an AOD transmission problem. The problem is

this.

When I'm driving in *either* of the two Drive gears - overdrive-D (or)

regular-D, it won't shift into 3rd gear (unless I've just started

driving and the tranny is relatively cool). Also, when the tranny is

refusing to shift into 3rd, but I keep going a little faster, PAST the

point where it should've shifted into 3rd, then I slightly let off on

the accelerator, then press down on accelerator, I find that the tranny

has shifted into neutral. I then have to wait until I slow down

enough for it to downshift back into 2nd (or sometimes 1st) in order to

get out of neutral.

I know very little about automatic transmissions, so I found THIS site

and forum and have learned quite a bit after reading many pages of

posts. I also went to the HowStuffWorks.com site and learned even

more, BUT, I still have a number of questions that I hope some of you

will have the time to answer. Your effort WILL be appreciated.

This forum told me that my tranny is NOT computer (electronically)

controlled, but instead, was "line pressure" controlled from the

throttle body. The HowStuffWorks site went into a little more detail

and said that my tranny would be controlled by EITHER:

A) a "cable linkage" FROM the (didn't say, but I'm assuming

throttle body) TO the tranny's "throttle valve".

(or)

B) a "vacuum modulator" FROM the (didn't say, but I'm assuming

manifold) TO the tranny's "throttle valve".

So, my first 4 questions are:

1) Which of the above definitely controls MY tranny?

2) Whichever one it is above, is my ""FROM the"" assumption

correct?

3) If it's "B" above, is the "vacuum modulator" (or the path to the

V.M.) a rubber hose, (or) is it metal tubing?

4) If one of the above IS the problem, can *either* one be fixed

WITHOUT removing and opening up the transmission?

A number of transmission repair shops mention a Transmission Diagnostic

Test. I assume that with a computer-controlled tranny, doing a

computer diagnostic could tell you quite a bit about what's going on

inside the tranny, BUT, I would think that with a NON-computer tranny, a

diagostic test would give you very little really helpful info.

So, my next 2 questions are:

5) What are the things a mechanic DOES check during a non-computer

transmission diagnostic test?

6) How much should this test cost me (if the shop doesn't offer it

for free)?

From all of the info I've learned so far, I can only speculate that,

unfortunately, there are a number of things that could be causing my

tranny problem.

Below, I'm repeating the symptoms to my problem that I mentioned at the

beginning of this post. Right after that, I listed some things that

MIGHT be the problem. I would really be interested in your educated

guess as to which one of those is "most likely" my problem.

""When I'm driving in *either* of the two Drive gears - overdrive-D (or)

regular-D, it won't shift into 3rd gear (unless I've just started

driving and the tranny is relatively cool). Also, when the tranny is

refusing to shift into 3rd, but I keep going a little faster, PAST the

point where it should've shifted into 3rd, then I slightly let off on

the accelerator, then press down on accelerator, the tranny will go into

neutral. I then have to wait until I slow down enough for it to

downshift back into 2nd (or sometimes 1st) in order to get out of

neutral.""

Other facts about my transmission:

*** overall, this tranny has had an "easy life".

*** has virtually never towed anything

*** has never been off-road hill (or) rock climbing

*** has had the transmission fluid changed on a regular basis (and) the

current fluid is a nice, bright red color.

*** has never been in a flood

*** is the original tranny, but was overhauled at 95,000 miles for NO

particular reason except that my Dad must have thought a tranny wouldn't

last much over 100,000 miles and didn't want to get stranded way out in

west Texas on one of his hunts. This overhauled tranny has 163,000

miles on it.

7) Which one of the following do YOU think is "most likely" my

problem.

*** The "Cable Linkage" (or) "Vacuum Modulator" is defective,

therefore not giving the tranny the correct engine speed or "load" for

it to be able to shift gears properly.

*** Some of the "Bands" and/or "Clutch Plates" are worn out.

*** The "2-to-3 Shift Valve" is defective and not supplying enough

hydraulic pressure to the bands / clutches.

*** The "Governor" and/or "Throttle Valve" is defective and not

supplying enough tranny fluid pressure to the "2-to-3 Shift Valve".

*** The "Pump" is defective and not supplying enough tranny fluid

to the entire transmission - however, if this were the case, I think I'd

be having other shifting problems.

Two final questions.....

The last time I had the transmission serviced, which was at a Ford

dealership, they did it the "new" way by forcing new fluid into the

tranny and having it "flush out" the old fluid. Unfortunately, by

doing it this way, the filter isn't replaced and the pan isn't checked

for metal particles.

8) What is your opinion of this type of servicing - is it any good

at all?

9) Also, what are the chances a clogged filter could be causing my

problem? Remember though, the problem occurs during only ONE phase of

automatic shifting - from 2nd to 3rd.

Thanks for reading this long post. I'm really looking forward to your

answers.

Bill
Try looking at Ford Transmission Forum.com,use the search heading.If you don't find anything close,post a question.They've got some pretty sharp cats over there that answer back and have MANY years of experience.They'll get you hooked up. BF

 

viper

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163000 miles on it ? A. I would first look at the price ofa low milage used tranny or B. look at the cost of a rebuilt tranny. C. call oreilly's they might surprise ya! @-)

 
OP
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billryder

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Try looking at Ford Transmission Forum.com, use the search

heading.....They've got some pretty sharp cats over there that answer

back and have MANY years of experience. They'll get you hooked up. BF

Thanks BRONCFOOT, I did post over there from your suggestion.

163000 miles on it ? A. I would first look at the price of a low milage

used tranny or B. look at the cost of a rebuilt tranny. C. call

oreilly's they might surprise ya! @-)

viper,

You don't mean O'Reilly's, the auto PARTS chain store do you?????? :unsure: - hey I'm new at all of this transmission stuff! :blush: If so (or not), tell me more.

 

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