Can anyone tell me if the 5.8 ** motor will even run w/ a 2bbl?
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To answer your question, yes. The 5.8 ** may have a 4bbl mounted on it, but it only uses 2 bbls most of the time. The secondaries shouldn't be comming in untill enough demand for additional airflow is put on the carb to open the secondaries.
From reading back in the thread I see your frustration. However, Holley is not junk as you think. They do require understanding how a carb works and what effects different performance factors. If someone doesn't want to learn carboration, then it is not the carb for them. I have a 351 with a new Holley 4160 on it and it runs like a champ. However, it took a bit of work to get it there and not all was carborator adjustment.
I assume that your truck has a stock 4180 on it, original or rebuilt, ( it is almost impossible to find a new 4180). The difference between the 4180 and 4160 is that the 4160 does not have the bowl vents and the idle speed adjustment is in a different location. Even a rebuilt 4180 probably won't run properly because the rebuilding process doesn't touch a critical area, that causes vacuum leaks and with vacuum leaks you will never get it to run correctly.
So number 1 throw that carb in the junk pile. No matter what carb you put in it's place, you need to make sure some other engine functions are working properly.
I am going to propose that you have more problems than a carb. Cold idle, especially in cold weather, is dependent on some other functions working correctly.
1. The Heat control Valves
2. The intke air heat control
Also, If this is the original equipment, I'd suggest that the EGR valve is all carboned up and stuck in one position or the other. More than likely, you have vacuum leaks around the base of the carb which can becaused by the errosion of the surface that the carb is mounted on by the EGR gasses. The Heat Control Valves are probably stuck or the control vane is burned off completely or the control to them is not functioning.
So how's that for gloomy picture.
![Frown :( :(](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
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Basically the reason for mentioning all that is to make the point that for a, "start and run engine", in all weather conditions requires that all the control functions work correctly as well as the carb. I took my 351 from an engine that had to be babysat from start untill it warmed up completly, (even in summer), to an engine that will Start, Run, and Move the truck down the road when the engine is still below freezing, (I don't recommend putting an engine under such stress, but it can do it). It took more than a carb change, that was a big help, but the control functions also needed to be functioning properly.
So if changing the carb alone does the trick GREAT, but don't be surprised if it still needs something. Mine needed much more than a new carb, almost none of the vacuum controlled functions were working, some wern't even there
![Frown :( :(](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
. The carb requires knowing how to adjust it, but that HOLLEY SHI%TS and GETS and it runs properly from subfreezing weather to blazing hot summer days.
The point being, a Holley is probbly one of the best and infinately tunable carbs going, but you need to know how to tune them.
Welp, that's my story, and I'm sticking to it
![Big grin :D :D](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
Hope I didn't bore ya :blush:
A few shots of the engine including my summer configurtion that I call the poor mans KN filter.
Good luck on yours, you may have a learning experience ahead of you
![Big grin :D :D](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
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![Smile :) :)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
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