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Yes, you can inspect the tranny/ t-case mount and/or bushings for wear. The double-bushing style on my 84 Bronco with the NP208 is pradtically obsolete, but i do have pics of the mod I did using 79 Bronco t-case bushings. Ford calls these isolators instead of rubber bushings. This style is only...

The 89-96 Broncos used the E40D auto tranny, so your 94 would have that model. JSM84

Check out Miesk5's Homepage of Bronco links for info on that lower-front shock stud. It's pressed in from the back side, and not easily replaced as stated. If you are able to weld, a better design is to replace the single stud with a standard rear shock mount lower breacket for more support. If...

For your Early Bronco, the "B8" codes out to a 3.50:1 ratio rearend with factory L/S. The "Q" is most likely a factory front L/S with the power steering option as well. JSM84

Mike is correct i nthat you should not need to use a slide hammer to pull out the axleshafts, as it's only needed to remove the bearing races from the axle housing/ tube. In some cases, however, it will feel like the axle is stuck and will not come out, either due to a frozen bearing, damaged...

There was a factory option for an inside spare tire carrier, which was bolted to the passngr-side rear quarter panel inside behind the wheelwell. You may be able to find the inside mount from a used one, usually for about $50. IT doesn't allow for much of any size tire over stock though. If you...

The Ford F-150 and Bronco series 8.8" axles use standard 31-spline axle shafts. In my experience, the Lock-Right is not as strong as the Trac-Lok, but they do claim install can be done in about an hour. If you have already 'grenaded' a factory Trac-Lok while rock crawling, then you prolly need...

I agree with Seabronc, as a fully-locked rear or even a locker such as the Detroit can have trouble turning on pavement and can be scary on snow or ice. The TrueTrac is a gear-driven limited slip (L/S), and will cost about $440-$450. I prefer it over the factory L/S Dana Trac-Lok, which will...

ogre, that's asweet-looking rig!!! sniper, you will likely get slight rub on the radius arms with 33's -35's when turning full lock, even with a kit with extended radius arms that are 'bent' inward. Whther or not you get rub on the fenders or front bumper will depend alot on the actual size of...

I would also agree to go with 4.56:1 gears for 35" tires. That was the setup I had on the 84 Bronco for some time. My 78 Bronco has 4.88:1 gears with 38" tall tires, and the 4-sp manual NP-435. One thing I would look into if you plan to rebuild the axles for 35" tires or larger is to consider an...

Welcome to Bronco Zone!!! The seal itself is cheap ( <$10 ) but the labor to drop the transmission will run about $400. The E40D auto trnnay in that Bronco can cost close to $2800-$3000 to have a shop rebuild and re-install it. Good Luck, JSM84

Welcome to bronco Zone, and thanks as well for your service!!! While the Dana60 SAS on my 84 Bronco uses the leaf springs in front and rear, I did plenty of searching on 4 links and such. You can install a triangulated 4-link and coilsprings or coilover shocks in the rear, but I would suggest...

If you are planning to install 2" leveling coils in the frontend, then you will likely need new, adjustable camber bushings. There is a sticky or pinned topic on page 1 of the 80-96 forum thaqt explains the geometry of the bronco TTB frontend and the problems with lifting kits. you will need new...

L&L Products makes the 460 swap motor mounts that you'll need, and Bronco Graveyard sells them. Or if you want to do the extra work, you can take the percehs out of the F-250 and use the stock motor mounts. Your biggest problem may be with clearance issues of the oil filter and the Bronco...

Miesk5 should have some info and diagrams on the 13-56 on his website if he doesn't post the links. I would not replace the "tailshaft" or rear output shaft unless it's damaged, like from falling onto the floor or being scored/ scratched where the bearings ride. The 13-56 is fairly easy to...

The best source of dropped Pitman arms I've found is from Skyjacker. I would suggest waiting until you do the SAS and determine what your final lift is, along with any changes to the asteering linkage. I am currently using a SkyJ dropped arm from my 6" ttb lift kit in my setup from the 88 F-350...

duck, check the parts list of the body lift kit you want to use for "bumper re-location brackets". Most kits will include one set for the rear bumper, but you're on your own for the front. An issue with the 92-96 Bronco frame is the design of the front horns, which have a crumple zone for crash...

I would say figure on $800-$1000 parts & labor for an open 8.8" rebuild, closer to $1500 if replacing the LS with a new unit or adding a locker. You need a few special tools to set up the gear pattern, and should leave that to a competent mechanic if you want the axle to last a long time...

You should be fine just driving to the shop. The bind or windup you normally get when in 4WD on pavement is negated by not having a rear driveshaft applying input to the t-case, only the front one. JSM84

I would consider doing aome routine maintenance first, like a coolant flush, new thermostat, etc. I like to clean out the radiator and any coolers up front at least once a year, to get rid of all of the grass seeds, mud, dirt, etc. that can clog the radiator. Then check around for any vacuum...