Something broke! I-beam?

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sports100

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Hey guys i was driving around and i beleave the RADIUS ARM neck broke. i was wondering if you guys knew anywhere i could get one online real quick for me. Im gonna check out our pull-n-save junkyard and im guessing all 80-96 bronco's have similar radius arms? please lemme no, any info would help.

UPDATE NEW PICS OF DESTRUCTION!!! AHAHAHA

bronco_defeat_002.jpg

bronco_defeat_001.jpg

bronco_defeat_003.jpg

bronco_defeat_004.jpg

 
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muddinlate86

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no thats yor lower control arm i belive 99% pos not hard to replce.what did you do,jump a ramp or hill?lol

 
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sports100

sports100

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no speed bump. in the past yes so it started then im sure and killed it when i went over the bump. and i figured it out. its called the radius arm for the passenger side. where can i find stock ones other than the junk yard.

 
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Broncobill78

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no thats yor lower control arm i belive 99% pos not hard to replce.what did you do,jump a ramp or hill?lol
Lower control arm ?!?!? This isn't a Crown Vic, Mustang or Tbird. It's a Bronco. That's the passenger side radius arm mount. The bushing itself looks a bit dinged but without a better photos I'd guess that the end of the radius arm snapped off since the radius arm itself should be running more-or-less parallel to the frame and NOT pointing up and into the wheel well like it is. It looks like there are several factory replacement type stickers on the axle & radius arm so I'd guess that the truck has been hit *hard* up front and repaired at least once in the past and if I had to take a wild-ass guess I'd say the repair was perhaps not quite up to the standards that most folks expect. What does the end of that radius arm look like ? From the two photos it doesn't look like there's TOO much damage and I'm *guessing* that a replacement radius arm will put you back in business, but to be honest more photos are needed. Post something more or shoot me a PM if you need some clarification on this.

 
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Seabronc

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Something else seems to be missing. I don't see the axle shaft for 4WD. Did that come off when the radius arm broke or has it been missing for a while?

Good luck,

:)>-

 

shift1313

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id say you had an impropertly installed lift kit. It looks like you have axle drop brackets and a drop bracket for the radius arms. With the arm sitting like that unless you slammed on the brakes hard and left it there in part there shouldnt be that much preload(twist) on your front ttb setup. Right now that thing is putting a serious bind on your axle pivot bushing your coil spring and your shocks.

is the end of the radius arm still there?

 
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sports100

sports100

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im going to try welding a new radius arm ***** in there. it seemed to have broken from that and only that. so ill try cutting the weld on it and impacting it out the replaceing it with a new bolt. how hard is it to fully remove the radius arm???

 

shift1313

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well you are going to have to undo your spring and unbolt the radius arm from the axle which goes under the spring perch. I would seriously consider loosening the entire front end and figuring out where the bind is because something isnt right up there. Im pretty sure the end of the bolts are hardened units. What are you going to weld in its place? whatever you weld in there i can guarantee will be weaker than factory and will just break again.

oh and if you do get a bolt that will hold up to it i suggest welding it in like factory and then boxing the other side just to help.

good luck

 
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sports100

sports100

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update: got the radius arm out here are some pics of what it looks like. i cut the weld already to try and hit out the rest of the bolt but its pretty Bi%#y and doesnt want to at all. Then im going to try to by a top of the line bolt cut off the head and weld it in? any suggestions, comments, concerns?

bronco_defeat_004.jpg

bronco_defeat_003.jpg

 

shift1313

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the problem is if you buy a bolt with any kind of rating more then likely it will have a coating. Mostly yellow or white zinc. This is very bad for you if you weld it without some sort of respirator(not a dust mask but fresh air supply). Most of the time parts like that are hardened after fabrication because the welding affects the surface treatment. i know the rear shackle bolts are 9.8(metric standard) and they were hardened. You are probably only going to find a black phosphate(oxide) finish that will be weldable. I recommend that you spray it down with something afterwards to keep it from rusting. Also note that some bolts that are black oxide come in oiled to prevent rusting, this will seriously affect the weld integrity and produce porous voids. I would thoroughly clean the bolts with something like acetone.

 

Broncobill78

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update: got the radius arm out here are some pics of what it looks like. i cut the weld already to try and hit out the rest of the bolt but its pretty Bi%#y and doesnt want to at all. Then im going to try to by a top of the line bolt cut off the head and weld it in? any suggestions, comments, concerns?
While you're certainly welcome to try I'll be right up-front and say that I honestly doubt that anything less than a new radius arm is going to fix the problem. As Shift alluded to, the simple act of welding *anything* with a grade rating is going to destroy the hardness of the thing. Once you've gone & annealed the parts you're welding they're going to be either very soft or very brittle and *neither* one of those is a quality you want in a radius arm tip. I can't imagine a junkyard arm costing much more than $35-$50 and considering the cost of materials & *prep time* that's got to be about even with trying to repair something that's pretty much unrepairable. Don't get me wrong, sometimes it can be fun to crank out a project like this just to *see* what will happen but in this case I really DO think it's a foregone conclusion, *but* sometimes guys just like to see this stuff for themelvs. I really wouldn't waste the time trying to fix it, get a new arm and be done with it. After that I'd take a good hard look at the front end to see just WHY it failed in that fashion, once again I think Shift may be onto to something with the poorly installed lift theory. More info about the truck & suspension would be helpfull but still, There are a lot of factory stickers on that hardware, it may well have been hit & poorly reconstructed. Wouldn't be the first time it's happened.

As far as replacement arms go, yes, to the best of *my* knowledge all of the 80-96 arms are interchangable. Someone else backstop me here if I'm mistaken.

 
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shift1313

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bill, i think the 80-96 bronco/f150 4x4 trucks are interchangable. i dont believe the 250 trucks with the dana50 fronts have the same radius arm setup.

sports, if you really want to tackle something like this you may want to weld in a tube to your radius arm with a threadalet on the end and run heim joints. good luck and dont drive too far or too fast from home.

 
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sports100

sports100

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ok bigger update. IT HAS NEVER BEEN IN A WRECK. we did that online check of the VIN characters and its clean only 1 previous owner. i bought a grade 8. got the old sh%# bolt out and welded it in. But others keep reminding me i should be just replacing the whole radius arm with a junkyard one. I dont know how mad they've been reemed on when the car was fine plus it is from a junkyard a WRECKED vehicle unlike mine. i no all about treating bare metal and did spray it with some rust-off autocolor.

 

Redneck86

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Unless the radius arm was screwed up in the crash the arm will be fine. Go look though the junkyard yourself if you want and find a truck thats been hit in the rear. The radius arm from that truck will be just as good as a new one.

 
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Broncobill78

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bill, i think the 80-96 bronco/f150 4x4 trucks are interchangable. i dont believe the 250 trucks with the dana50 fronts have the same radius arm setup.
sports, if you really want to tackle something like this you may want to weld in a tube to your radius arm with a threadalet on the end and run heim joints. good luck and dont drive too far or too fast from home.
You're right, My bad. I should have specified that I was talking about Bronco/150 arms. I doubt the D50 arms will fit. I should have been more specific, that's what I get for typing without thinking :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I also agree that the hiem-joint idae has some merit if he's really bent on repairing the existing arm (or upgrading both of them) but I would maybe caution that this project perhaps isn't the best one for someone who's not confident in his welding ability. I have to return to my original thought that simply replacing the arm and being done with it will be the best way to go, but on the other hand if you never challenge yourself your skills stagnate.

 

Broncobill78

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ok bigger update. IT HAS NEVER BEEN IN A WRECK. we did that online check of the VIN characters and its clean only 1 previous owner. i bought a grade 8. got the old sh%# bolt out and welded it in. But others keep reminding me i should be just replacing the whole radius arm with a junkyard one. I dont know how mad they've been reemed on when the car was fine plus it is from a junkyard a WRECKED vehicle unlike mine. i no all about treating bare metal and did spray it with some rust-off autocolor.
I don't think anyone has any real concerns about treating the exposed metal, it's just that the heat of welding something as small as that is *bound* to destroy the temper of the part and while you may have *purchased* a Grade 8 bolt, I can absolutely guarantee that it stopped being Grade 8 as soon as you welded it to something else. Now it's just a piece of threaded rod attached to the end of a radius arm. How long it will last there is anyone's guess, might be that it goes a good 10yrs or more but maybe it fails 2 wks after you start driving it. These things are heat treated and once you weld them to something else the heating process resets the metal back to zero or somewhere in-between but it's *surely* not a Grade 8 anymore. Maybe it's strong enuf, maybe it isn't. The only way to really find out will be to drive it until it fails. If you're North of the Mason-Dixon then there shouldn't be any shortage of rusted out F150's & Broncos in the yards as good donor vehicles. All I know for *sure* is that welding on a bolt much smaller than 3" will destroy it's temper. A replacement radius arm shouldn't be that expensive.

Jeff's wants $95 for a *brand new* left-hand arm: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-33233_...s_arm__left.htm So I'm guessing that something used from a local yard shouldn't cost much more than the $50 or so that I originally thought it would run.

 

Redneck86

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I thought the D50 was only used under F250s and was leaf sprung? I havent seen any F250s with a coil/radius arm set up.

 

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