Rear Axle Bearings

[Anthony in PA]

Hello all. I'm new to this forum. I have a 1995 Bronco XLT with the 5.8L. It's got a Ford 8.8" rear, a Borg/Warner 1356 Transfer case mounted to an automatic tranny. I've been hearing a whirring-whining sound for a few weeks now, and it's gotten progressively worse. It's pretty loud now. I thought it may have been the pumpkin or Pinion bearings, so I replaced the gear oil (since it has 146K miles on it and I don't think it was ever replaced) Anyway, the gears looked good, and there were no metal filings, etc in the old oil. I replaced it with a synthetic gear oil (Valvoline 75W140. It has the friction binder additive already in it for LSD). When I had it jacked up, the right wheel had a lot of play in it and didn't roll so smooth when I turned the wheel manually, so I think the axle bearings are going. Pulling on the wheel had about a 1/4 inch of play too. (Approximately) I'm nervous about driving it now because if the bearings disintigrate and seize, it will most likely destroy the axle and the wheel will fall off. @-) (And that would be VERY expensive) It's my daily driver, so I'm going to have to do some logistics about getting it to the shop and finding another way to work. The axle bearings (because the Bronco doesn't have rear "wheel bearings") are a job for the machine shop. ( The old bearings have to be literally broken off and the new ones have to be pressed on. I don't have the tools nor a press. Has anyone here ever had to have the rear axle bearings replaced in their late model Bronco? (I think it's a semi-floating axle, but I'm not sure) How much do you think this job costs, or if there are any mechanics here, can you give me an idea? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks! - Anthony in PA

 

[Justbust1n]

Hello all. I'm new to this forum. I have a 1995 Bronco XLT with the 5.8L. It's got a Ford 8.8" rear, a Borg/Warner 1356 Transfer case mounted to an automatic tranny. I've been hearing a whirring-whining sound for a few weeks now, and it's gotten progressively worse. It's pretty loud now. I thought it may have been the pumpkin or Pinion bearings, so I replaced the gear oil (since it has 146K miles on it and I don't think it was ever replaced) Anyway, the gears looked good, and there were no metal filings, etc in the old oil. I replaced it with a synthetic gear oil (Valvoline 75W140. It has the friction binder additive already in it for LSD). When I had it jacked up, the right wheel had a lot of play in it and didn't roll so smooth when I turned the wheel manually, so I think the axle bearings are going. Pulling on the wheel had about a 1/4 inch of play too. (Approximately) I'm nervous about driving it now because if the bearings disintigrate and seize, it will most likely destroy the axle and the wheel will fall off. @-) (And that would be VERY expensive) It's my daily driver, so I'm going to have to do some logistics about getting it to the shop and finding another way to work. The axle bearings (because the Bronco doesn't have rear "wheel bearings") are a job for the machine shop. ( The old bearings have to be literally broken off and the new ones have to be pressed on. I don't have the tools nor a press. Has anyone here ever had to have the rear axle bearings replaced in their late model Bronco? (I think it's a semi-floating axle, but I'm not sure) How much do you think this job costs, or if there are any mechanics here, can you give me an idea? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks! - Anthony in PA

yep done them my self and it and easy job if you have the right tools you have to get the axle out and yu have to get a bearing puller which is a long ***** looking thin that allows you to impact the bearing out you need to catch it now thought or it will start leakin rear end fluid on you brake and it will start stinking and cause the brakes to respnd a little worse... , but if you took it down to change the fluid then you could do the bearings... get it down to that again and look on the diffrential fo a small bolt on the side , its a 5/16 if you cant see it you might have to put the truck in neutral and move the drive shaft while its jacked up .. you have to pulll it out and the cross pin then after you take the rotor off you have to push the axle in towards the truck it souldnt move but maybe a half and inch the go back tot he diffrential and take the c clip out its on the end of the axle, and pull the axle all the way out and the bearing is on the end where the axle comes out wish i had some pics cause it sound harder than it is hope this get you started ... good luck

 

[Roadkill]

yep done them my self and it and easy job if you have the right tools you have to get the axle out and yu have to get a bearing puller which is a long ***** looking thin that allows you to impact the bearing out you need to catch it now thought or it will start leakin rear end fluid on you brake and it will start stinking and cause the brakes to respnd a little worse... , but if you took it down to change the fluid then you could do the bearings... get it down to that again and look on the diffrential fo a small bolt on the side , its a 5/16 if you cant see it you might have to put the truck in neutral and move the drive shaft while its jacked up .. you have to pulll it out and the cross pin then after you take the rotor off you have to push the axle in towards the truck it souldnt move but maybe a half and inch the go back tot he diffrential and take the c clip out its on the end of the axle, and pull the axle all the way out and the bearing is on the end where the axle comes out wish i had some pics cause it sound harder than it is hope this get you started ... good luck

You are in luck! I just happen to have some pictures of that stuff. B)

This is how the Cross-pin retaining bolt will look when you remove the cover:



It can be removed with a 1/4drive 5/16 socket while holding the ring gear from spinning:



Then pull pin:



Push in on axle to expose the C-Clip:



Remove the C-Clip:



This is what the clip actually looks like when removed:



When you put it all back together, use a new retaining *****. They only meant to be used once and $3 is a small amount for the insurance of a new one. You do NOT want that thing to come loose while driving down the road. Here is a picture with the NAPA Part#:



I don't have any pictures of the bearing because I was installing a locker when I took these pictures. But like Justbust1n said, it is not too difficult.

 

[Justbust1n]

You are in luck! I just happen to have some pictures of that stuff. B)
This is how the Cross-pin retaining bolt will look when you remove the cover:

View attachment 4608

It can be removed with a 1/4drive 5/16 socket while holding the ring gear from spinning:

View attachment 4609

Then pull pin:

View attachment 4610

Push in on axle to expose the C-Clip:

View attachment 4606

Remove the C-Clip:

View attachment 4611

This is what the clip actually looks like when removed:

View attachment 4607

When you put it all back together, use a new retaining *****. They only meant to be used once and $3 is a small amount for the insurance of a new one. You do NOT want that thing to come loose while driving down the road. Here is a picture with the NAPA Part#:

View attachment 4612

I don't have any pictures of the bearing because I was installing a locker when I took these pictures. But like Justbust1n said, it is not too difficult.

lol.... i love it when someone else helps ya out on here , thanx man i dont have my camrea anymore and all of those words where probably scaring the guy into thinking he couldnt do it ...

 

[creekindian]

Thanks guys, I'm dealing with the same problem on 95 Eddie Bauer 5.8. Working my way from front to back on it being a forensic mechanic. Great pics and information.

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Great Stuff JUSTBUST & ROADKILL!

For sim pics and info, here is the Chilton info

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038ed35

also icludes 10.25 diff, Dana Model 80