HOT wheels!!!!!

[GunDude]

First timer her so Hi to all.

About 6 weeks ago, I picked up a 95' XLT, 5.8, 144,000 miles, manual hubs, E4OD trans I believe, open rear axle ( . I took it straight to local shop and they replaced the front rotors and brakes adjusted the rear and flushed the brake lines, flushed cooling system, and a trans flush. Runs great except for two problems I am now havng.

First, after running some very short stop and go errands, both my front rims where very HOT to the touch, both rear where fine.

Second, I noticed the temp gauge register quite hot and checked the level of the coolant. I had to add about a gallon and that brought the temp way down. Since I just had it flushed I figured it was full, and no external leaks that I can see. So, would this suggest a head gasket leak?

Also, anyone know where I can pick up the lower outside rear window weather stripping?

Thanks

 

[Bully Bob]

"----both my front rims where very HOT to the touch---"

Brakes...or bearings to tight is about all that can heat things up.

"----level of the coolant. I had to add about a gallon and that brought the temp way down----"

There may have been an "air bubble" in the system after the flushing.

"---would this suggest a head gasket leak?---"

H-G leak would show up in the oil, external eng. or out the exhaust pipe. (dribble/splatter)

Eng. prob. wouldn't run smooth as well.

 

[wtfdissux]

very commen after a flush to get air pockets from when the machine is disconnected where I work we run them for a while with the cap off and front off the groung this helps alot we also over fill the overflow as the rad will draw it in as needed and the problem with the brakes sounds like any one or a combination of the following:

1. the bearings to tight

2. to much prload on the hub on reassembly

3 gumed up slides not retracting the pads ( on our trucks I believe that they are all the bushing/pin style and they still need to have the "channel" that they go in cleaned and lighly lubed )

4. rare but is possible that they let the callipers hang or used line clamps and the hoses are split internally acting like a check valve alowing fluid out but not returning fast enough causing them to drag

and lastly if they did not clean the cosmoline off the rotors as it is worn off will get very hot and may even smoke(hence the term burning the brakes in)

 

[GunDude]

very commen after a flush to get air pockets from when the machine is disconnected where I work we run them for a while with the cap off and front off the groung this helps alot we also over fill the overflow as the rad will draw it in as needed and the problem with the brakes sounds like any one or a combination of the following:

1. the bearings to tight

2. to much prload on the hub on reassembly

3 gumed up slides not retracting the pads ( on our trucks I believe that they are all the bushing/pin style and they still need to have the "channel" that they go in cleaned and lighly lubed )

4. rare but is possible that they let the callipers hang or used line clamps and the hoses are split internally acting like a check valve alowing fluid out but not returning fast enough causing them to drag

and lastly if they did not clean the cosmoline off the rotors as it is worn off will get very hot and may even smoke(hence the term burning the brakes in)

Except for the last cause, of burning the cosmoline off. Since I have atleast a 1000 miles since the work was preformed, I think the cosmoline was burn off by now.

AS to the other sujest problems. Would all of these have been preformed in the process of replace my rotors and pads? I would like to know so I can go take it back to the shop where I had it done and hopefully fix it, if they can. I allready to it back once, when I found brake caliber pad bolt had been replaced by them with a chrome plated bolt and it was not even tight at all. It was a Goodyear shop! :glare:

As to the coolant, I was under it yesterday and saw where cooland is comming down from by the head, so it off to Ford, week after next to get it fixed.

Was wondering if I should just have both head gaskets replaced at same time or just the one?

 

[Bully Bob]

"------should just have both head gaskets replaced?---"

"Murphys law" says the other side will let go a week later... <_<

 

[GunDude]

"------should just have both head gaskets replaced?---"

"Murphys law" says the other side will let go a week later... <_<

That's why I was thinking of both sides!