waterproofing distributor

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SLICKS92BRONCO

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I went wheeling the other day and went through some water, the distributor got wet and in the process caused the truck to die I had to dry the distributor out to get it running again. Anyone have any suggestions on how to waterproof the distributor to keep the water out of the cap. Thats the first time its happened and it was embarrassingl lol she didnt get stuck though and made it through like a champ. Any help would be nice so next time I will have more time wheeling and less time drying the distributor. Thanks

 

Seabronc

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You might try dielectric grease. Put in on the edge where the cap and body go together and on each plug boot, (both ends). You don't have to go crazy with it, just enough to seal. On the boots, put some on your little finger and just wipe it around the inside. When putting the boots back on the distributor they may have a tendency to hydraulically push back off especially if you put too much on. Just work them a little and they will stay on. Check them a couple of times to make sure they didn't push off. The seal causes them to trap air which compresses when you put them on.

Good luck,

:)>-

 

Broncobill78

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I went wheeling the other day and went through some water, the distributor got wet and in the process caused the truck to die I had to dry the distributor out to get it running again. Anyone have any suggestions on how to waterproof the distributor to keep the water out of the cap. Thats the first time its happened and it was embarrassingl lol she didnt get stuck though and made it through like a champ. Any help would be nice so next time I will have more time wheeling and less time drying the distributor. Thanks
I used to just run a bead of silicone around the cap when I reinstalled it and then shot in a generous glop of dielectric grease into each wire-boot (both ends), most caps come with a small plug & vent hole so you're good there and I used to ford a 4ft stream regularly with this setup. Don't go crazy in the water *especially* if you're running a direct-drive fan w/o the fan clutch, other than that seal it up w/silicone, leave a small breather port and gop the dialectric into the wire boots, can't go wrong.

 

Blue beast

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Put Dielectric on the rotors nose and on the contacts inside the distributor, On the wire boots pinch the side of them when installing to let the

trapped air out!! I would put the dielectric on all the connectors don't use too much or you will hydraulicly push the contacts away from their

mate and you will lose contact. Be sure to extend your differential vent lines and put a loop in them. If you are a regular water crosser I

would move the charcoal canister up higher or else you can **** water into the intake,Too much at the wrong time is bad. I used to drive

200 yards through brackish water to shorelaunch my boat in the canal, It would get pretty deep if I forgot where the holes were or if some

knucklehead power loaded in too shallow of a spot!! I ran all vent lines and the charcoal canister up higher and dielectric all connectors and

never had a problem!! Be careful with the O2 sensor since it needs to breathe it is best to let the truck cool a bit if you are going to cross

deep water, Or else when the pipe and sensor gets splashed or submerged it cools rapidly and draws in water. Do not put dielectric on it or

it will never read correctly you could put a bigger copper or steel pipe around it so it doesn't get splashed and it can get air from a bit higher

up. Who here has the original rubber boot that covers the distributor? I do!! Keep the wires sprayed with silicone to keep them waterproof

also at night get a spray bottle and spray down the wires with water, start the truck, turn off all lights and look for sparks jumping between

wires to ground or to other low voltage wires, IF you see abunch that is lost energy when crossing water, You need to add seperators, reroute

wires or cover with split loom!!

 

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