wont start

[montanachad]

I am a new member to this site but have stopped here alot to see whats going on in the Bronco world got to love them even if they break, just means your enjoying the heck out of it. Anyways I have a 1986 ford bronco, I was driving down the road and stopped at a light and the thing just quit running, now I replaced the cap and rotor, And the ignition coil. Checked the fuel pump on the rail and have fuel coming out, dont know how much should come out but it soaked me so I think it was enough. The next thing I will do is check each plug for spark, but not sure after that. If anyone has some troubleshooting on this topic let me know.

 

[illinoisbronco]

I am a new member to this site but have stopped here alot to see whats going on in the Bronco world got to love them even if they break, just means your enjoying the heck out of it. Anyways I have a 1986 ford bronco, I was driving down the road and stopped at a light and the thing just quit running, now I replaced the cap and rotor, And the ignition coil. Checked the fuel pump on the rail and have fuel coming out, dont know how much should come out but it soaked me so I think it was enough. The next thing I will do is check each plug for spark, but not sure after that. If anyone has some troubleshooting on this topic let me know.

when i replaced my fuel filter it was the original believe it or not. it may have alot of crud in it from sitting. it is after thr pump and before the engine on the drivers side rail as far as soaking you it shouldnr have excessive pressure it may have been backed up from the blockage.

 

[Seabronc]

Read this then go buy one /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?sho...amp;#entry79578

Good luck,

>-

 

[BroncoJoe19]

You should have approx 35 lbs pressure at the rail.

We could write a book on troubleshooting, so let us know if you have spark.

Also, here is a thread on how to pull diagnostic codes from your onboard self testing computer. All you need is a 4 inch piece of wire and a voltmeter. I KNOW an analog one works, and am told that a digital one works also.

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=74581

BTW... you should follow seabronc's recommendation and get the EVTM for your year truck. But while waiting for it to come in we can get you started.

 

[shift1313]

what motor do you have? 86 L6 may have been carb still.

flow and pressure are different for sure.

when the truck stopped, did it kind of sputter to a stop or did it just cut out.

 

[montanachad]

Thanks for all you info, the EVTM manual should be very helpfull and I will try that first. I am pretty sure to do a Code test on your own the truck has to be running, thats what I have been told but maybe i am wrong who knows. I am leaning towards timing because it has been dieing at stops for a couple of months, the RPM's will go up and down and then die. This is an 302 with rebiuld new tranny and many other mods.

 

[montanachad]

Thanks for all you info, the EVTM manual should be very helpfull and I will try that first. I am pretty sure to do a Code test on your own the truck has to be running, thats what I have been told but maybe i am wrong who knows. I am leaning towards timing because it has died at stops for a couple of months, the RPM's will go up and down and then die. This is an 302 with rebiuld new tranny and many other mods. Hey shift1313 it sputtered and then died!

 

[BroncoJoe19]

You can do the KOEO Key On Engine Off part of the self test, and pull continuous memory codes without the engine running.

Here is a tutorial.

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=74581

 

[shift1313]

usually an electrical problem will just cut the vehicle off, no sputtering.

i would start with fuel as your issue.

you said the tranny was rebuilt, what tranny is it? aod or manual

let us know after you test for spark what your results are.

 

[montanachad]

usually an electrical problem will just cut the vehicle off, no sputtering.
i would start with fuel as your issue.

you said the tranny was rebuilt, what tranny is it? aod or manual

let us know after you test for spark what your results are.

I have a AOD< And I have tested spark, Spark good> I have fuel, Fuel good. I thought maybe timing, timing good. I still havent ran code yet but will get to it this weekend. I have a feeling it could be Throttle Control Sensor. It wants to start and sounds like it floods out when I give it gas, but nothing. So maybe my fuel-air ratio might be off due to this sensor. If anybody knows about these sensors let me know, I have found a few articles on it but just shows replacement.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

IAC or Idle air bypass

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=39

 

[montanachad]

IAC or Idle air bypasshttp://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=39

Good point but It seems to me that the IAC will work no matter what, well I quess I should say your truck will still run, or maybe its not unheard of that the truck wont run.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

You asked for info on the throttle control sensor (because your fuel/air mixture might be off). Since the IAC goes by many names, and controls fuel/air mixture based on commands from the computer, I thought that is what you wanted.

Here is a paper on the mechanisms of failure of both the IAC and TPS in the types of IACs and TPSs found in our trucks.

http://delphi.com/pdf/techpapers/2006-01-0763.pdf

From the link in the previous post...

 

[montanachad]

You asked for info on the throttle control sensor (because your fuel/air mixture might be off). Since the IAC goes by many names, and controls fuel/air mixture based on commands from the computer, I thought that is what you wanted.

Here is a paper on the mechanisms of failure of both the IAC and TPS in the types of IACs and TPSs found in our trucks.

http://delphi.com/pdf/techpapers/2006-01-0763.pdf

From the link in the previous post...

 

[BroncoJoe19]

You may want to re-read the instructions for pulling codes, and verify that you got a 22, just to make sure that you didn't get a 11 for the KOEO on demand codes, and a 11 for the KOEO continuous memory codes. Remember the two sets of codes are separated by a 6 - 9 second pause. BTW a code 11 means that it passed the self test.

SO assuming that you did get a code 22 that points to your MAP sensor. Check it to make sure the connections are clean and tight, and make sure the vacuum hose to it is not leaking, (You may want to cut a 1/2 inch off of it, and put it back on).

Miesk5 knows far more about codes than I do. Here is the advice he gave me when I got a code 22.

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=77312

 

[montanachad]

You may want to re-read the instructions for pulling codes, and verify that you got a 22, just to make sure that you didn't get a 11 for the KOEO on demand codes, and a 11 for the KOEO continuous memory codes. Remember the two sets of codes are separated by a 6 - 9 second pause. BTW a code 11 means that it passed the self test.SO assuming that you did get a code 22 that points to your MAP sensor. Check it to make sure the connections are clean and tight, and make sure the vacuum hose to it is not leaking, (You may want to cut a 1/2 inch off of it, and put it back on).

Miesk5 knows far more about codes than I do. Here is the advice he gave me when I got a code 22.

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=77312

Well Joe I didnt get any flashing when I started the code self test it was about 10 seconds and then it blinked II six second II, so I quess thats a pass if Im reading right which who knows not to sharp when it comes to reading, I will read what Miesk5 has to say on the subject of code 22. When I get this figured out Ill send you some picks of the old girl- 1986 with 6 inch lift 35-12-50-15!