Two Question

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Bebop Man

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Ok, as a reminder, I've got an '86 with the FI 302, and the T-18 4 speed

1) My speedo doesn't work.

A couple years ago the speedo cable started to make some noise, so I replaced it. About 6 months later the needle started jumping all over the place, then finally stopped moving at all. I changed out the drive gear that slips into the xfer case and it worked for a few weeks, then died again. I reached around and was feeling the teeth on the output shaft, but they felt ok, no chips or worn spots. Any ideas?

2) I'd like to add cruise control

I've seen universal kits, but I'm not sure they're the way to go. What do I need to look for from a junkyard?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo,

Maybe cable needs **** or replacement?

Lubrication; This is for a Stang, but similar "...Cable function depends hugely on lubrication and plenty of it. When lubrication becomes lean, cables bind and deteriorate, which only makes the problem worse. If the cable has deteriorated to where it is frayed anywhere along its length, it's time to replace the entire cable assembly. Frayed speedometer cables damage the inside of the sheath to create two sources of binding. This is why entire cable assembly replacement is so important to smooth speedometer operation. Here's the transmission end... Here's the transmission end of a speedometer cable, which takes a #N751 o-ring and the appropriate speedometer drive gear, chosen depending on the transmission and rear axle gear. New cables are already equipped with the o-ring. The barber pole pathway carries transmission lubrication to the drive gear.When you install a new speedometer cable or service an old one, generously lubricate the cable with a mixture of transmission fluid and lightweight lithium grease. Mix up a modest *** of lithium grease and transmission fluid in the palm of your hand and run the cable through it. You can also use speedometer cable lubricant for this purpose. Run the cable back and forth until saturated with ****. Then, slip it into the cable sheath..." READ MORE http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_1008_1968_ford_mustang_speedometer_cable_replacement/index.html

Source: by Jim S at mustangmonthly.com

Cruise Control:

See LINKs in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=114

such as:

[[/url]Cruise (Speed) Control (Vacuum) "TRICKS OF THE TRADE" Troubleshooting TSB 90-25-12 by Ford for 86-91 Bronco, Aerostar, Econoline, Explorer, F-150, F-250, F-350, Ranger & cars

For yard parts; most yards can pull following or diy;

Amplifier:

Disconnect the wiring at the amplifier, located behind the instrument panel.

Remove the amplifier mounting bracket attaching screws or nuts and remove the amplifier and bracket.

Remove the amplifier from the bracket.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Control Switches/Steering wheel;

Set the front wheel in the straight ahead position and make chalk marks on the column and steering wheel hub for alignment purposes during installation.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the one ***** from the underside of each steering wheel spoke, and lift the horn switch assembly (steering wheel pad) from the steering wheel. On vehicles equipped with the sport steering wheel option, pry the button cover off with a screwdriver.

Disconnect the horn switch wires at the connector and remove the switch assembly. On trucks equipped with speed control, squeeze the J-clip ground wire terminal firmly and pull it out of the hole in the steering wheel. Don't pull the wire out without squeezing the clip.

Remove the horn switch assembly.

Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and remove the steering wheel with a puller.

Never hammer on the wheel or shaft to remove it! Never use a knock-off type puller.

Install the steering wheel in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the shaft nut to the specifications shown in the SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS at the end of this Section.

http://content.chiltonsonline.com/content/images/8576/images/85768z96.pdf

http://content.chiltonsonline.com/content/images/8576/images/85768z97.pdf

url="http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/162722"]This is how the cruise button wires are connected on all pre-'93 trucks. The horn pad connector is the same for all '78-91 steering wheels, regardless of shape or cruise control. Cruise horn pads have the additional black ground wires that clip into a steering wheel hub puller hole

Servo:

Disconnect the wiring at the servo.

Disconnect the adjuster from the accelerator cable.

Disconnect the vacuum line at the servo.

Remove the actuator cable-to-bracket *****.

Remove the pins and nuts retaining the servo to its mounting bracket and lift it out.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Cable Adjustment

Snap the molded cable retainer over the accelerator cable end fitting attached, to the throttle ball stud.

Remove the adjuster retainer clip, if installed, from the adjuster mounting tab.

Insert the speed control actuator cable adjuster mounting tab in the slot provided in the accelerator cable support bracket.

Pull the cable through the adjuster until a slight tension is felt without opening the throttle plate.

Insert the adjuster cable retainer clip slowly, until engagement is felt, then, push it downwards until it locks in position.

Speed Sensor:

Unplug the wiring at the sensor on the transmission.

Disconnect the speedometer cable from the speed sensor.

Remove the retaining bolt and remove the sensor. Remove the drive gear.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Vacuum Dump Valve:

Remove the vacuum hose at the valve.

Remove the valve and bracket. Separate the valve from the bracket.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Adjustment

The dump valve disconnects the speed control whenever the brake pedal is depressed.

Make sure that the brake pedal is fully released and the valve's plunger is in contact with the brake pedal adapter.

Move the valve forward in its retaining clip until 3mm (1/8 inch) of the valve plunger is exposed.

Make sure that the brake pedal is still in the fully released position, against its stop.

btw,

For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;

http://www.mypartshop.com/

Select All Parts

year, etc, then FORD TRUCK

zip

select Cruise Speed Reg

&

http://www.copartfinder.com

HAS PICS, but can't search for specific parts

but can request parts; "Who does my parts request get sent to?

A: An email is sent to every CoPartfinder participating dismantler who has designated to receive Request-A-Part emails. Currently, there are over 1,000 dismantlers participating in this service across the US.

Q: How will the dismantler contact me?

A: The most common way to respond to a Request-A-Part email is by emailing you directly. The email you provide is the only one sent to the dismantler.

Q: If email is the most common method to reach me, why am I including my address and phone#?

A: By sending this information to the dismantler, this information does not have to be obtained later if the dismantler has your part. This also allows the dismantler to call you directly to ask questions if necessary. And finally, shipping charges can be calculated so when a price is quoted, there are no charges added on later..."

-

Rostra Universal Cruise

 
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Bebop Man

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Thanks miesk5. The cruise control info will be very handy when I start browsing junkyards this spring.

The speedo info is still making me pull my hair out. The cable was recently replaced, but I didn't **** it before installation, never occurred to me.

 
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Bebop Man

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Got on my project for the day. I pulled away the dash cluster and disconnected the speedo cable from the gauge so i could watch it as I drove around the block. No movement of the cable. then I got underneath and disconnected the cable from the transfer case and spun it by hand. The cable moved smoothly So I know the cable is good. I jacked up the rear axle and spun it by hand, feeling the drive gear. As it spun around I could still feel the teeth, but they didn't feel even. Looks like the drive gear is the culprit.

Is there a way I can pull the tail shaft off the transfer case (bw 1345) without having to crack the case open?

 

miesk5

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yo,

yep!

1345 Seal & Gear Removal in an 85

Source: by Josh G (MONEYPIT) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/4369/18426

you'll need a new output seal; avail usuallyin gasket/seal Kits; such as by OUR SPONSOR here, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard

BW 1345 Gasket and Seal Kit # 31632 New

1980-86 Ford Bronco

1980-86 Ford F150, F250, F350

Borg-Warner 1345 Gasket and Seal Kit Includes Shift Fork Inserts Price: $18.00

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-31632-bw-1345-gasket-and-seal-kit.html

or

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/transfer_case_replacements_and_parts/bw1345.html#Illustration

Gasket & Seal Kit K24500

depending on gear color, they may have a new one too

or verify type w/this FORD PART NUMBER:

DOTZ17285A Speedometer DRIVE Gear, Green, 6 teeth, WAJ-17285-A, Available from Ford.

$38.36 @ http://www.pifordparts.com/Item-26528/DOTZ17285A.html

or using http://www.rearcounter.com/DOTZ-17285-A-parts83666.html 19 found at 3 sellers GEAR - SPEEDOMETER New OEM / NOS (New Old Stock): Quantity: 11

Bob Allen Ford Quantity: 11 Overland Park, KS (913) 381-2999

Green Sales CompanyPrice: Request Pricing, Recently Updated Quantity: 1 Cincinnati, OH (513) 294-8385

PiFordparts.com Price: $38.36 Quantity: 7, Farmers Branch, TX (888) 727-0418

Fits: MANY 2WD & 4WD 1970 & later F100-350, & F(Super Duty), 1970-96 Bronco, 1970-74 E300,

1975 and later E100-350's & E(Super Duty); some 500 and larger series trucks.

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DOTZ17285A-Ford-Gear-Speedometer-/250886226374 $40.27

I'll post for now; may lose Comcast again

EDIT;

I have more 1345 info Links in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=70

such as;

1345 Rebuild

Source: by broncohq.com http://broncohq.com/pdf/80-96/chassis/1345transfercase.pdf

 
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