Timing: walk me through adjusting

[Orangecrush]

Okay, my truck runs GREAT when warm. However, it doesn't want to start. I mean it's really an art to get this thing running. My first suspicion is that the timing is off, most likely too ********?

First, here are the symptoms: cranks and cranks with hardly a sputter when cold. If you pump the peddel, eventually you'll get it to catch just for a second. Once it does start to catch, you have to continue to crank it (great for the starter /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> ) and pump the throttle. Once it gets to the point where it MAY run on it's own you have to continue pumping the throttle. The weird thing is that the engine "bounces" at this piont. It is sort of like it's running and then not then running then not, almost like the key is being turned off and on and off and on....... This goes on for maybe 5-7 seconds. Then, it roars like normal. I'm thinking this could be the timing being advanced due to vacuum but then bouncing back to ******** and so on and so on. It also like to backfire when trying to start (fuel not burn).

Now, assuming this may be a problem with the initial timing, I want to be able to adjust.

I know how to rotate the distributor clockwise to advance and counterclock to ******. The problem is that the vacuum mechanism is as far as it can go and is hitting the water inlet neck. I understand that there is a way (if it turns out that retarding the timing makes it worse) to advance the spark more by moving the distributor to another tooth on the cam.

Can someone walk me through, step by step, how to accomplish this??

 

[Bully Bob]

Did you do the squirtie test again..? (looking down the airhorn to see the stream of raw fuel is in fact there when throttle is pushed)

Obviously with eng. OFF b-(

Even that new carb could eat an accel. pump.

Next I would spray either (starting fluid) in air horn to see if it will start & run on that.

I set the dizzy with the #1 cyl at "top dead ctr" ON COMPRESSION STROKE !!

I slide it in with the rotor pointing to #1 plug-wire ... it MUST slide all the way down 'til it's seated..!! In this SEATED position, it (the vac. pod) should rotate equi-distant to obstacles left/right. (or close) (mine is on a 45 deg. fr. straight forward, almost equi-dist. between neck & valve cover.)

If it won't drop down in then it's tricky ... pulling slightly & rotating rotor 'til it drops & seats pointing at #1. This is hard to explain...easy to show.

Lock it down (loosely) & re-time.

The bad news is Ford uses a hexagon rod to run dizzy to cam. I once had the rod fall down into the eng. (had to pull it out with a "grippy")

If the rod stays in place in its hole in the cam dist. drive...you should be alright.

If it comes out with the dizzy, just make sure it sticks good in the bottom (hole) of dizzy.

[-o<

Maybe others can add to this. Good luck

Bob

 

[Bully Bob]

OOPS...! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

As long as you set on TDC #1 cyl first, you don't need to pull dizzy "up" any further than the point where the rotor turns freely. This way the rod is not a prob.

Again easier to show than explain... B)

 

[Bully Bob]

OOPS again..*******

That rod runs the oil pump if memory serves..... @-) I think I need some sleep !