Thermostat or Radiator problem

[ToddJerad]

Finally fixed the bushings on the linkage with my hurst 3 speed and found out previous owner had bent rods also. Drove for about 10 minutes and noticed a lot of coolant (green) fluid pouring out of the radiator hose. I was about to install a reservoir plastic case bought from a local parts store for the overflow, but thought this is not normal. I am sure someone has encountered this problem with the EB's. Do i need a new radiator or do the thermostats need to be changed frequently and could this be the problem instead. Thanks for the help in advance.

Also have a two stage paint i sprayed on myself and some grease seems to be impossible to get off and spots. I tried paint thinner and no luck, any suggestions as well.

 

[Bully Bob]

Rest assured..., this is not an "EB" specific problem.....

"...noticed a lot of coolant (green) fluid pouring out of the radiator hose."

I must assume/hope you mean rad. overflow tube..? (fluid pouring fr. rad. hose.., one wouldn't last 10 min.)

"...I was about to install a reservoir plastic case bought from a local parts store for the overflow."

Yes..., Do this.

"...do the thermostats need to be changed frequently?"

No..., but, the key here is what did the temp gauge say...? If "hot" then 'stat could be bad.

"Do i need a new radiator? "

Maybe....did you (at any time) take it out & flush to see how it flows gardenhose water?

Lastly..., if not overheating...test/replace rad. cap.

 

[ToddJerad]

Ok, I completed all tests. Flushed radiator finally with hose, cycled water for 15 min. Took about 10 for all the dirt to exit (it was extremely filthy and full of dirt). Pump seemed to be working great, heater was disconnected so I think all areas were flushed (hopefully). Changed radiator cap to release at 16psi instead of the 13 which was on there and installed new overflow container on otherside of radiator. Next will be temp guages (oil and water) but seems to be fine now. I think the flush helped and too much dirt and water with little coolant was problem. Thanks again.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Also have a two stage paint i sprayed on myself and some grease seems to be impossible to get off and spots. I tried paint thinner and no luck, any suggestions as well.

Waterless hand cleaner usually helps get paint and grease off of oneself, and is not as harsh as paint thinner. Perhaps the thinner got the paint really deep into the pores of your skin. In time the outer layers of skin will die and slough off, and will be replaced by fresh new skin cells that are clean and free of paint. In the mean time just keep clothes over your painted body areas, and no one will know the difference.

I don't know why you painted yourself, but at least it won't be as permanent as a tatoo. Was it as a test to see what a tatoo would look like before you made it permanent?

 

[ToddJerad]

Hahah, thanks Joe, I guess I wasn't clear after re-reading. I sprayed the paint on the CAR myself with two stage paint. When I was cleaning and had grease on my hands some may have penetrated the paint on the car. I tried using paint thinner with no luck. The next week I clayed the car, no luck. Almost looks like brown spots on the tailgate like sap or something and is irritating since I took effort to paint the truck. Spots came after Top coat should have been dry, assuming from dirt or grease.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Hahah, thanks Joe, I guess I wasn't clear after re-reading. I sprayed the paint on the CAR myself with two stage paint. When I was cleaning and had grease on my hands some may have penetrated the paint on the car. I tried using paint thinner with no luck. The next week I clayed the car, no luck. Almost looks like brown spots on the tailgate like sap or something and is irritating since I took effort to paint the truck. Spots came after Top coat should have been dry, assuming from dirt or grease.

Hahaha... I guess you were scratching your head after you read my response eh?

I kinda figured you meant your truck, but I couldn't for the life of me figure out what was going on.

Todd, You have the ability to write well but sometimes don't take the time to do so.

Compare for yourself the quality of your first post to this thread, to your discription of your paint issue in this post. Your later discription is much better.

OR how about this... my radiator hose is leaking, is it my radiator? What kind of question is that? How would you expect one to answer a question like that?

I recall when I was in grammer, and then later high school, my teachers always wanted us to proof read, and edit anything that we had written. That seemed like such a waste of time back then. But now, I typically re-read, and edit for clarity pretty much everything that I write, I also check for punctuation, and spelling. Yeah, it does take more time, but being precise, leads to less confusion.

OK.. off my soap-box.

I agree... it sounds like the grease penetrated the paint before it fully hardened and cured. IT sounds like you will not get it out, and will have to sand and repaint. Hopefully I am wrong and someone will have a little magic solution for you.

Good luck,

joe

 

[ToddJerad]

Well I am glad you got off your platform preaching to a MENSA member /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> about punctuation and spelling after you spelled TATTOO wrong twice as well as GRAMMAR (but whose checking?), but anyways I did let the paint cure as to why I am puzzled. I also used high quality top coat and these spots happened 2 months after paint was complete. I think you are right though Joe, it is a lost cause and re-paint is it then since I tried another product with no luck. Ill be more specific next time to please the audience or at least the people that always respond from their soap box. I am also being tongue in cheek just in case it is hard to tell from what I re-read.

Todd

 

[Bully Bob]

Darn-it..!!

I actually got sick enjoyment/challenge outa trying to decipher Todds situations..!!! >

It was on par with talking to my 98 yr. old grand-dad....with dementia... :lol: >

SeaBronc says it best...,

"If you think you know what I thought I said" & I know I said what you think you heard.....

Then you know I said what I think I meant......Something to that affect. :lol:

"Changed radiator cap to release at 16psi instead of the 13 which was on there "

This is "magic" & gave me a "Chuckle." :wacko:

I think I know what you thought you meant...

Soooooo, I believe a 13lb. cap is the "hot setup" (pardon the pun) as opposed to the 16 pounder.

As it's designed to "release" over-pressure in the system...tooooo the recovery tank you bought.

"..heater was disconnected"

Someday.., this needs flushing as well /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Hay Pa ...throw the cow over the fence some hay...!!

-------------hope I didn't missss-sepellll anything....?? --------- /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[ToddJerad]

Hey Bully, I noticed on another post of yours you said the points should be set at .021. I was told by a ford mechanic it was supposed to be .016 min to .017 (no more no less). I am about to change points and think I have stock distributor or dizzy as you car folk like to call it. Seems that the people you have helped that have it set at .021 have had good success. He told me without looking up just want to make sure before install.

Also in response to the above answer, I have the 16lb on with the reservoir tank and noticed it drew some coolant later on from the installed reservoir after about 10 min of running the truck for the day. Is the pressure increase (boiling point increase) likely to damage my radiator by increasing heat or will i be ok? A little confused with your above response and didn't pick up the meaning of the sarcasm.

You guys are so hard to please. And trying to decipher what your facial icon expressions mean is like trying to have a conversation with my cousin... with facial ticks. So you can "throw mama from the train a kiss as well". Maybe I just need some Pennsylvanians to read and respond to my posts since they may understand my grammar a little better /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />.

As always thanks for taking the time and keeping this interesting.

 

[Bully Bob]

Don't remember the posts...but,

earlier eng. (289) is .034 plug gap---- 29 dwell----- .017 point gap ---6deg. btc

---- 1970 (302) is-----.034 --------------27 ----------- .021 --------------6

(in 1972 they went back to .017 point gap)

Having said that..fuel changes over the yrs., may have some influence.

'69-'70 302's were more hi performance as it were...

BTW----Great post ..!! (think I ***'d a bit laughing..!!!)

The spec. calls for 13 lb. cap (I'm pretty sure) (auto parts stores have the specs on that)

The idea is to release some fluid above 13 lbs. pressure. IMHO 16lbs. may be a bit high.

Since you've been such a good sport......

Here's the secret/truth.....coolant does NOTHING to help the engine run "cooler".

----------------------100% WATER is the "best" liquid to "cool" an engine.

ALL the coolant does is move "up" the point at which the liquid will boil. i.e. a veh. with 100% coolant will tend to run hotter. (& probably show on the temp. gauge.)

But, moving the boiling point "up" tends to save, or allow some failures to creep up W/O a catastrophic failure.

And as you know, it lowers the freezing point. And helps stop minerals from coming out of solution, & sticking to the interior walls. AND lubes the waterpump.

Now, what was the question.....?

Oh yah...no.., don't worry 'bout that boiling point....again only comes into play with the start of a circulation problem.

Don't think 16 lb. cap is the way to go....but not totally sure.

No wonder..., Pennsylvania....... Is that in Kentucky..? /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

What fun..!

Don't ever go away.......this is way better than watch'n the tube... [-o<

 

[ToddJerad]

Ill try to keep it interesting, I was starting to think Joe and yourself Bob were machines employed by GM /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />. But at least the sense of humor means your "some what" human.

Since this is no show vehicle and not worried about deductions, am I wrong for not going the high electronic ignition route. I see hei dizzies on ebay for 302s for 70 bucks. Seems rather inexpensive to convert. Or am i getting to far ahead. I already purchased the 8 dollar points and have the dwell meter already and feather tester so will try your specifications tonight when i install, but am still curious of a later upgrade to electronic. Don't know too much about distributors and never done anything with points so very unfamiliar with pros and cons but here is a listing below from ebay. Seems priced right?

i.e. (You are bidding on a new high performance 50,000 volt HEI vacuum adjustable distributor for small block Ford engines 289-302 with 50,000 volt coil. Part # 8910.

Features: Hi-performance control module, brass terminals on cap for best conductivity, hardened gear, and capacitor which prevents radio static).

This is a no brand i think or knock off but does it matter, I assume they do the same thing as the MSD or other 300 dollar hei systems?

Ill leave you with a quote or run on sentence (since I know Bronco Joe hates when I do that) I remember from yours and my favorite poet Maya Angelou (probably botched it).

"Perhaps travel cannot prevent bigotry, but by demonstrating that all peoples cry, laugh, eat, worry, and die, it can introduce the idea that if we try and understand each other, we may even become friends."

So take that BroncoZone, poetry and internal combustion enginesl; what a forum. I better be the first who quoted Maya Angelou on this site or Im gonna be ****** :angry: .

 

[Bully Bob]

Mr. Todd..,

Good stuff.....ya, life's to short to take to serious.. >

There's absolutely nothing wrong with converting to any of the electronic ignitions.

I have not.. as they're really meant for hi performance engines..., & hi RPM's

Other than a Frwy. romp....4x4's operate in the lower RPM ranges.

The up-side is you'll never change points again.

---that's about it

The down-side is should vibration, or heat, or water, shut it down....you're "dead in the water."

(unless you carry another expensive box)

With points...you can limp home, or, swap-in the old set out of the glove box, or a new set stored there.

BTW... if a veh. doesn't run smoothly with (good/new) points...there's something else a-miss.

Summitracing.com (among others) has kits, in that you pull the top parts fr. your stock dizzy & install the "pointless ignition system" --Costs $50-60 ...around there. (I think it's called Capacitor Discharge, like bikes have)

I have not done this either....BUT...... if I did.., I would carry my spare dizzy with (you guessed it) the points already set-up in it.

My Z-car quit on me, several moons ago, & "sticker shock" got me @ $300 for that ity-bity box.

Sooooooooooooo, I'm "old-school" & "cheap"

That's my story & I'm stick'n to it.........!! [-(