Tailgate window switch

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dragoonlady

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HELP..... 1988 Bronco Eddie Bauer edition. I've been fighting with the tailgate window for longer then I care to admit. We think the problem in the dashboard switch. (have already replaced the motor) I've got the new switch, I finally got the panel (where it goes) loose... I can't get the **** to the light switch off so that I can get to the back to replace the part. I've tried just pulling, holding the shaft with pliers and pushing in and turning right and left, no luck. I'm really tired of waiting for my guy friends to make time to look at this for me. I'm within a breath of having it repaired. Any help will be appreciated.

 

broncokenny

Ken Emerson
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HELP..... 1988 Bronco Eddie Bauer edition. I've been fighting with the tailgate window for longer then I care to admit. We think the problem in the dashboard switch. (have already replaced the motor) I've got the new switch, I finally got the panel (where it goes) loose... I can't get the **** to the light switch off so that I can get to the back to replace the part. I've tried just pulling, holding the shaft with pliers and pushing in and turning right and left, no luck. I'm really tired of waiting for my guy friends to make time to look at this for me. I'm within a breath of having it repaired. Any help will be appreciated.
Those knobs should pull off even though it seems hard,they may break off ! There is a little metal locking clip

inside the knobs.hold shaft with pair of visegrips and pull back of **** with hand or something you can place firmly against **** shaft.I damaged mine but got them to still work.Panel should snap off.

 
OP
OP
D

dragoonlady

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Those knobs should pull off even though it seems hard,they may break off ! There is a little metal locking clip

inside the knobs.hold shaft with pair of visegrips and pull back of **** with hand or something you can place firmly against **** shaft.I damaged mine but got them to still work.Panel should snap off.

Thank you,

I did get the &@%# **** off, and found was just as hard to remove to old switch, but It's done, and guess what? You guessed it, the @*%%$#^ window still doesn't work. I called a professional machanic and he said to take it to someone else, but had no sugestion. (so he won't even touch it for money) I've checked the fuses (did that first) replaced everything except the wiring. I'm so frusterated at this point I'm afraid to do anything other then put it back together. I'm thinking a sledge hammer applied gently to the offending device could be helpful, it might not fix the problem but it will make me feel better (until I need to lock it up). Thanks again for your help. (I didn't see an icon for tearing ones hair out in bloody chunks)

 

broncokenny

Ken Emerson
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Thank you,

I did get the &@%# **** off, and found was just as hard to remove to old switch, but It's done, and guess what? You guessed it, the @*%%$#^ window still doesn't work. I called a professional machanic and he said to take it to someone else, but had no sugestion. (so he won't even touch it for money) I've checked the fuses (did that first) replaced everything except the wiring. I'm so frusterated at this point I'm afraid to do anything other then put it back together. I'm thinking a sledge hammer applied gently to the offending device could be helpful, it might not fix the problem but it will make me feel better (until I need to lock it up). Thanks again for your help. (I didn't see an icon for tearing ones hair out in bloody chunks)
Try playing around with wire harness behind window panel in tail gate while someone uses switch.I have tons of problems with my windows too.Sometimes they work sometimes they dont. Ive just got use to wrigging something up to make them work.Ive got to much money in this beast now not to mention the 90.00

$$$$ to filler up.Good Luck

 

Seabronc

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HELP..... 1988 Bronco Eddie Bauer edition. I've been fighting with the tailgate window for longer then I care to admit. We think the problem in the dashboard switch. (have already replaced the motor) I've got the new switch, I finally got the panel (where it goes) loose... I can't get the **** to the light switch off so that I can get to the back to replace the part. I've tried just pulling, holding the shaft with pliers and pushing in and turning right and left, no luck. I'm really tired of waiting for my guy friends to make time to look at this for me. I'm within a breath of having it repaired. Any help will be appreciated.
They are quite easy to get off with a small L shaped pick. If you look at the back of the **** you will see a small notch, by putting the hook of the pick in that position and pulling, you will release the triangular shaped spring clip that holds it on and the *** will come off with no effort at all.

Good luck,

:)>-

 

snowman74

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Let's try a different approach here.

what shape is the tailgate in now? Is the window down or up? tailgate open or closed? Did the key switch on the tailgate work before, even when the inside switch did not?

If you can answer these questions, I might be able to help. Just got through replacing my tailgate and all the guts. Works fine now.

Snowman74 :)>-

 

dmil

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HELP..... 1988 Bronco Eddie Bauer edition. I've been fighting with the tailgate window for longer then I care to admit. We think the problem in the dashboard switch. (have already replaced the motor) I've got the new switch, I finally got the panel (where it goes) loose... I can't get the **** to the light switch off so that I can get to the back to replace the part. I've tried just pulling, holding the shaft with pliers and pushing in and turning right and left, no luck. I'm really tired of waiting for my guy friends to make time to look at this for me. I'm within a breath of having it repaired. Any help will be appreciated.
 

dmil

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I can help you. I just fixed my tailgate window problem. I will do some checking tomorrow to give you the correct information. First to remove the headlight switch ****, remove the panel under the dash below the steering column. Try to see the bottom of the headlight switch, not easy. There is a small spring loaded button on the bottom or right (passenger) side. Use a long skinny screwdriver to push the button while pulling the **** shaft out. There is a hole in the bottom of the metal part of the dash you can stick the screwdrive through to make it easier to see and work. Sometimes you have to wiggle, push and pull several times. When the **** is out, remove the headlight switch from the panel, replace the **** and turn off the headlights while working on the rest of the project. I can tell you how to check the switch and the vehicle wiring after I make some checks tomorrow. I will do some checking tomorrow. Good Luck

. edited by SEABRONC to remove email address

 
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Seabronc

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OK, missed the fact that you already had gotten the headlight switch off and throwing another part at it didn't fix the problem. In fact I guess I missed the fact that you were working on a tail gate problem. The tail gate circuit is pretty easy to resolve with a meter. Attached is a diagram of the circuit. Note that there are two fuses which you may have already found out. One powers the dash switch which is powered only when the key is in RUN or ACC. The other powers the tail gate switch and that line is hot at all times. If the motor is definitely good, (which can be verified by using a set of jumper leads directly to the motor connector). Once it is verified that the motor works then the common problems are:

1. The Latch Safety switch in the left side latch, This is often a problem when the tail gate fails from both switches.(you can pull the connector and jumper it out, which many people leave permanently jumpers out). The problem can be as easy as the latch needs adjustment. So if the jumper makes it work then either leave it jumped, adjust the latching stud for a tighter fit, or replace the latch switch if testing indicates it is bad. The function of the switch is to make sure the tail gate is latched before putting the window up. I like it bypassed because it makes it easy to get the window out of the way when working inside the tail gate. I think I'm smart enough to put the window back down before closing the tail gate :-" . The only suggestion if leaving it jumped is to support the window if it is in the up position with the tail gate down. Else it could be broken by someone leaning on it :-& .

2. The ground return for the tail gate switch uses the same two lines the dash switch does, (the grounding point is under the dash. The dash switch changes the function of the two leads running to the tail gate window motor by grounding one and putting 12V on the other. The tail gate switch uses the two leads for the ground connection, (it requires the dash switch to be in the neutral position in order to work). Depending on the year of the truck there are 2 or 3 connectors involved that often get corroded, sometimes to the point that the wires break off the connector. In your truck, there is on connector behind the left tail light, the next common failing connector is the one on the left side of the rear frame crossover member, (it is gray, if you can still see the color, and just under and behind the bumper).

So to make it short, if you can operate the motor with a set of jumper leads and the window goes up and down that way, then the problem is a connection or the Latch Safety Switch.

If you can't get the tail gate open to work on it, crawl in the back and remove the tail gate panel and find the motor leads attached along the bottom edge of the opening. Disconnect them and use a long set of leads or another battery in the back with you to test the motor. Once the window is down you can open the gate to make it more comfortable to work on the problem.

In the diagram you will see a black with white striped wire that goes to the tail gate key switch, you should have 12V there at all times. To get at it, you will need the window in the up position. The other two leads, (with the dash switch in the center position) should indicate that they are grounded when doing a continuity check of them). You can also check the entire path from dash switch to the tail gate key switch by using a meter and probing the wires the purple with light green stripe and the dark green with light green stripe. Have someone (with the key in RUN or ACC) moving the Dash switch from UP to Down while you check those leads for 12V. If you don't get 12V then the problem is in a connector between the two switches or a broken wire (a broken wire would most likely be where they transition between the body and tail gate due to constant flexing). The procedure would be; 12V missing on one of the wires, move back to the connector behind the tail light (missing there), move to the connector on the cross member (missing there) move back to the connectors in front, until you find where you have 12V on the line you are probing. Once you find 12V the problem is between the last point probed and where you find 12V.

Good luck,

:)>-

Rear window Circuit1.jpg

 
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nelbur

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I had a similar problem on my '86. Replaced the switch, checked the motor and found it good. Thought about selling the truck. Finally unwrapped the wiring where it flexes between the tailgate and the rear quarter panel, and found one wire had broken. An easy fix after a lot of frustration.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo Nelbur...

Good stuff!

I took off some of the harness insulation, re-wrapped it w/ Harness Tape and then used the plastic type spiral wrap to prevent damage when one certain family member "helps" remove cargo from area & usually snags the harness or w/TG up, drags stuff over outside, top painted area

 

broncogirl90

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OK, missed the fact that you already had gotten the headlight switch off and throwing another part at it didn't fix the problem. In fact I guess I missed the fact that you were working on a tail gate problem. The tail gate circuit is pretty easy to resolve with a meter. Attached is a diagram of the circuit. Note that there are two fuses which you may have already found out. One powers the dash switch which is powered only when the key is in RUN or ACC. The other powers the tail gate switch and that line is hot at all times. If the motor is definitely good, (which can be verified by using a set of jumper leads directly to the motor connector). Once it is verified that the motor works then the common problems are:

1. The Latch Safety switch in the left side latch, This is often a problem when the tail gate fails from both switches.(you can pull the connector and jumper it out, which many people leave permanently jumpers out). The problem can be as easy as the latch needs adjustment. So if the jumper makes it work then either leave it jumped, adjust the latching stud for a tighter fit, or replace the latch switch if testing indicates it is bad. The function of the switch is to make sure the tail gate is latched before putting the window up. I like it bypassed because it makes it easy to get the window out of the way when working inside the tail gate. I think I'm smart enough to put the window back down before closing the tail gate :-" . The only suggestion if leaving it jumped is to support the window if it is in the up position with the tail gate down. Else it could be broken by someone leaning on it :-& .

2. The ground return for the tail gate switch uses the same two lines the dash switch does, (the grounding point is under the dash. The dash switch changes the function of the two leads running to the tail gate window motor by grounding one and putting 12V on the other. The tail gate switch uses the two leads for the ground connection, (it requires the dash switch to be in the neutral position in order to work). Depending on the year of the truck there are 2 or 3 connectors involved that often get corroded, sometimes to the point that the wires break off the connector. In your truck, there is on connector behind the left tail light, the next common failing connector is the one on the left side of the rear frame crossover member, (it is gray, if you can still see the color, and just under and behind the bumper).

So to make it short, if you can operate the motor with a set of jumper leads and the window goes up and down that way, then the problem is a connection or the Latch Safety Switch.

If you can't get the tail gate open to work on it, crawl in the back and remove the tail gate panel and find the motor leads attached along the bottom edge of the opening. Disconnect them and use a long set of leads or another battery in the back with you to test the motor. Once the window is down you can open the gate to make it more comfortable to work on the problem.

In the diagram you will see a black with white striped wire that goes to the tail gate key switch, you should have 12V there at all times. To get at it, you will need the window in the up position. The other two leads, (with the dash switch in the center position) should indicate that they are grounded when doing a continuity check of them). You can also check the entire path from dash switch to the tail gate key switch by using a meter and probing the wires the purple with light green stripe and the dark green with light green stripe. Have someone (with the key in RUN or ACC) moving the Dash switch from UP to Down while you check those leads for 12V. If you don't get 12V then the problem is in a connector between the two switches or a broken wire (a broken wire would most likely be where they transition between the body and tail gate due to constant flexing). The procedure would be; 12V missing on one of the wires, move back to the connector behind the tail light (missing there), move to the connector on the cross member (missing there) move back to the connectors in front, until you find where you have 12V on the line you are probing. Once you find 12V the problem is between the last point probed and where you find 12V.

Good luck,

:)>-
 

broncogirl90

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I was just wondering if this also works for a 1990 Bronco. I haven't been able to figure out why my window won't work anymore. I have had it apart before and it worked for a while... Thanks :((

 

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