Starter went start, now can't stop

[Bully Bob]

Let me ask this.., after hours of rest, does the solenoid stink..?

If not, turn the key to "on" (not start) & wait 10-15 min. :-" ...... Now see if it's hot &/or smells. :-&

 

[scubachris]

No clue, but I will check as soon as I get off this oil rig.

 

[stm]

I have same trouble at starter-solenoid-ignition switch "chain".

Are you solve this trouble?

 

[miesk5]

yo for CHRIS & STM

Accessories that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch. Refer to Ignition Switch in the Adjustments

Runs On after the switch is released; Early Starter (pre-'90?) ; "...This style of starter cannot cause itself to run-on since it doesn't normally have power. Run-on can only be caused by the starter relay, which can stay on due to an internal fault, a wiring fault, a failed NSS, a failed ignition switch, or a switch actuator fault..."

Lock Cylinder Adjustment & Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables) in an 83; "...The following proceedure is from the 1983 Ford Service manual, with a few minor wording changes, but should work for any year. Also included are a couple of illustrations from the same proceedure to help you visualize it..."

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/7243-ignition-switch-adjustment-proceedure/

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BY BRONCOBILL78

Here's everything from both the Factory manual and the Factory EVTM guide (electrical, vacuum troubleshooting guide) about the 87-91 Bronco ignition switch. If you're having ignition problems and suspect the ignition switch, lock cylinder or actuator rod then this is pretty much everything that Ford ever published about it. Hopefully this will help you solve any switch related issues that crop up and if nothing else it's good info to save & print for a rainy day http://broncozone.com/topic/14120-87-91-ignition-switch-info-troubleshooting-guide/

MORE INFO LINKs in my site @

http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=225

 

[stm]

Hmmm, in my case ignition switch and lock cylinder is normal - at first i checked it in compliance with testing procedure above, and at second i disconnected switch from wire and make starting via paper clip - it have same result .

But i find one more possible cause of this situation - my friend said, that short circuit or coil breakdown at starter motor can be rise up current in circuit, starter looks like a operating, but hi current lead for "welding" main positive terminals at starter relay (on the fender in my case) and it can not be discharged after returning key from "start" position.

But i find once more strange things - all those troubles with stuck starter can be, if i use standard lock cylinder or shorting wire in dash. If i turn ignition on at key, and make start engine from jumper wire from positive AC terminal to control terminal of starter relay - starter never stay-on... Maybe, it is only "lucky situation", because i start engine in this way not often...

And why sometimes starter relay not charge-on when i start engine, when i turn key in start position? I heard only "click" from low-current relay in dash (this relay is unknown - wiring diagram is free for this relay). I think, that is "custom" feature from pre-owner.

Yesterday, my starter motor died - it stay-on once again, and it **** starter drive (probably). I can't open hood, drop down control wire and knocking to relay body in time... I failed my starter... Sh...t!!!

Today i will dismount starter for observing situation))

 

[miesk5]

yo,

ok, test that starter relay on fender

If internal contacts are welded; you can use a test light across large terminal in series w/batty; if light goes on, contacts are welded (a disc that makes contact with parallel bolts that are used as the large terminals, as shown here);

pic by Steve

This is for later year starters and not for your year

Runs On after the switch is released in Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction (PGMR) in 92-96; This situation develops when the ignition terminal on the starter is “jumpered” to the battery terminal on the starter and a remote solenoid is used. Permanent magnet starters can actually produce power if they are driven from an outside source (i.e. the starter will act like an alternator once the engine fires and starts spinning). The current produced in the starter for this second or so will flow from the starter’s battery terminal to the starter’s ignition terminal and hold the solenoid in. This will cause the one to two second delay in the solenoid release and an irritating noise. The solution is to wire the starter per the instruction sheet, which will ensure that the ignition switch terminal goes dead the instance the key is released.

Source: by powermastermotorsports.com