Smoke after plugs and wires?

[Dltnjest]

I changed my plugs and wires today and I fired it up and it has a misfire and its blowing black smoke. I'm almost certain the firing order is correct and all the plugs are in and wires are tight. I'm not sure how to trouble shoot

Here's my thinking - if you took a wire off the distributor and it was working it would run worse

But if you took one off that wasn't working it wouldn't affect the engine differently then it was. Is this reasonable thinking?

 

[Bully Bob]

"Is this reasonable thinking?"

Not necessarily... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

It's almost certain you have 2 or more wires misplaced. :-B

The firing order is likely on the intake. The dizzy is usually marked with # 1 plug wire starting point.

Give it another check.. >< <'>

 

[miesk5]

yo D,

re your; "Here's my thinking - if you took a wire off the distributor and it was working it would run worse

But if you took one off that wasn't working it wouldn't affect the engine differently then it was. Is this reasonable thinking?

Yes to both

I have the Chilton and AutoZone wire routing diagrams for the 86 5.0 and BOTH are different!

So I won't confuse you with that crap.

This is by Ford for 87 through 93

Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order TSB 94-04-10 - engine miss, spark knock, buck/***** surge and other driveability concerns; MIESK5 NOTE; The firing order for 87-93 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. If #7 and #8, or #2 and #4 spark plug wires are routed next to each other at the separation bracket, an induction crossfire condition can occur

AZ shows same for 86 5.0 Bronco

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528004b6b0

1986 Ford Bronco Full Size

5.0 liter V-8 VIN "N"

Source: by autorepair.about.com

 

[Dltnjest]

I used the 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 one.

I checked it, and they all seem to be in place. I dont know about the rotation thing you guys have supplied im not sure what that is - sorry im a noob haha. First vehicle ive bought to solely work on myself.

Could it be caused by the wrong gaps in the spark plugs? I can supply the part number if nessecary

 

[Krafty]

pull the cap off the distributor and make sure there are no excessive wear marks on the contacts. any black marks will indicate an arc from poor contact. next step will be to check that each wire is in fact producing a spark by one by one removing the wires from the plugs and putting an old plug in the wire and letting it rest on the intake out of the way of the cooling fan. turn the engine over to check for spark then reinstall the wire onto the correct plug before moving onto the next one.

once that is out of the way then we can get into timing and firing order.

by the way what engine do you have?

 

[Dltnjest]

I have the 5.0

 

[Dltnjest]

So I pulled off the distributor, and I did find that their are some small chips and ware on a few of the contact points. I realize it needs to be changed, but it wouldnt run any worse then it did before I started, which is what worries me. Now, there is some white smoke coming out of the exhaust after I turn the truck off. Am I looking at more problems then just the wires and plugs here?..

 

[Bully Bob]

Now I'm confused....???

Isn't there a reluctor (think it's called) & a stator in the dizzy..?

What "points"..? :-B

Anyhooo.., a stator can fail (so I've heard) & so can the ign. module.

My elect. ign. actually made my eng. (while trying to start) run backwards/then quit...., because of a "BAD" coil. All kinds of smoke & stink fr. everywhere..... :-&

New coil & all's well. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Just a thought'

B

 

[Dltnjest]

Also, if their was a misfire, when you gave it gas, it would spudder when trying. It didnt do that.. So I dont think the wires are off track

So.. What would be an appropriate plan of action?

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Is it black or white smoke?

Black - too much gas is being burned. Your air/fuel mixture is too rich. You may have a clogged air filter. If the air filter is not clogged there may be a problem with a sensor controlling the vehicles fuel injection system Do a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

White smoke - When a cold engine is started, any condensation that has formed in the exhaust will be burned off. This is normal and nothing to worry about. On the other hand if you see white smoke coming out of the exhaust at all engine temperatures then this is an indication of a blown head gasket or possibly a crack in the head, intake or cylinder. Basically what is happening is coolant is leaking into the cylinder and being burned off as steam.

 

[miesk5]

The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

see location pic

also ck plug wires for continuity

then ck for vacuum leaks

see my vac leak test @ http://broncozone.com/topic/22770-low-idle/

Consider Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; & Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service, and Modify All Ford-Lincoln-Mercury Cars and Light Trucks, 1980 to 1987 by Charles Probst

avail @ BARNES & NOBLE, AMAZON, E BAY, ETC.

 

[Dltnjest]

Okay took out all plugs, adjusted gap, and checked wires and they are all legit.

During the process, I found two vaccum lines not hooked up. One is a big ass one behind upper intake, and I connected it.

The other one is coming off of the throttle thing with the cable. Their is vaccum line with a splitter not connected to anything.. So im not sure if this would throw off my idle? Maybe I unplugged it when I was doing plugs, could that cause it to idle off? Does it not need air when it idles to keep it constant or something?

 

[miesk5]

yo D,

The vac leaks are a symptom of your issues.

Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 86 5.0 with EFI



by Steve

ACV (Air Control Valve) is the TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter) Valve (AIR Bypass (AIRB) and AIR Diverter (AIRD) valve combinations)

MAN VAC is Manifold Vacuum

FPR is Fuel Pressure Regulator

EGR is Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Valve

Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoid (SOL V) (AIRD)

Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) Solenoid

EVR is EGR Vacuum Regulator

VRESER is the Vacuum Reservoir Can (Tank)

Carbon Can is da Carbon Canister (Charcoal Canister, Vapor Canister, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister)

MAP is da Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

AIR BPV is the AIR Bypass (AIRB) Valve; also called the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) Valve

Also ck for vacuum leaks in

Climate Control system;

Vacuum Line Diagram in an 86 @ http://chrisb.users.superford.org/Bronco/Misc/1986_EVTSM_Page_141.jpg

Source: by Chris B

To help ID vac lines;

re , "vaccum line with a splitter not connected" that may be the "Vacuum Tree";

Location pic in an 86 5.0; in engine bay, on firewall below passenger side wiper blade

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=22011&d=1351464756

Source: by petlover07

Engine Bay pic, Driver's side from Fan to WS wiper Motor in an 86 302

Source: by loudpyps at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/900195

Engine Bay pic, Overhead, Driver's side Diagonal from WS Washer Fluid Tank to Driver's Side Hood Hinge in an 86

Source: by 86Broncodude at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/897022

5.0 Replacement Videos in an 86 5.0

Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/17406/65739

 

[Dltnjest]

Yeah I found that same diagram on the one in my hood, but unfortunately my mechanical skills are lacking, ********. So I have attempted to include pictures, so if anyone can tell me where these are coming from and going to (supposed to anyway) that would be great. Thanks - Dalton

http://[/img]

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[Elmo]

that is the connection for the canister purge silinoid on my truck with a 5.8 not sure if it is the same for the 5.0 but it defff does not need to be open cap it off and see if it makes any improvement

 

[miesk5]

yo,

As ELMO advised, cap it off and see if issues are cleared-up. That appears to be an in-line splice connector @ end of hose; so see if it will mate up to any other loosed ended vac hiose nearby or on other side of manifold or Throttle Body.

 

[Dltnjest]

Well, I solved the issue with my truck. A connector behind the battery near the sellenoids was loose, and I reconnected it and all is good now. Im not sure what its called, but it idles smooth and all the smoke is gone.

As far as that other vac hose, I tried putting my thumb over it, and blowing into it while idleing, and it didnt make a difference. What should I do with it? Thinking its a dead hose. Not sure.

 

[miesk5]

yo D,

Great!

I'd secure the hose & leave it there; tape open end and maybe use it down the road in case another sim sized hose fails