rust repair.

[jsomedaysoon]

i just bought a new welder that i want to learn to use. i've never welded before so i'm open to any advice or suggestions. heres my deal though. i have an 84 thats got some bad rust issues. they're pretty much like the pics on shift1313's exept my whole door jam is rotted through too. i know i can buy patch pannels but i'm curious would it be cheaper and easier to go to a junk yard and cut out a whole chunk of floor with a sawzall and bring it home and weld it in place of the rotted section of my truck or do i have to buy all the seperate pannels and piece them together.

 

[Seabronc]

If you can find the parts you need in a junkyard go for it. I have done that before. Just be sure to cut out more than you thing you need, that way you can custom cut it at home. If you are doing the rear door post, you need to get behind the skin. That can be cone by cutting and using a weld cutter on the weld spots. In that case, you might want to consider a new piece of skin to replace the removed piece. You will also need a ****** tool to make the overlap look it's best. However, I wouldn't use a welder on the skin as you will warp it. A lot of body shops use epoxy these days to do things like attaching new skin and it holds just as good as a weld.

Good luck,

>-

 

[jsomedaysoon]

yea i was looking into that epoxy thing for body pannels but the set up i saw takes a special gun that mixes them that was like 3 or 4 hundred dollars.

 

[miesk5]

Replacement w/adhesive in an 86

Source: by Sixlitre

"...Look what's left after doing both rear quarters ! I did the whole of both sides with only one cartridge ! The other's going back tomorrow for cash back..."

http://www.proformproducts.com/en/products/detail/?id=119

Pro-Form Pliogrip

Replacement w/adhesive (w/parts list- Panel Adhesive = $26.00 a tube, Application Gun = $65.00, etc. by http://www.wheelersautobody.com/) in a 90

Source: by Jason T

not for use on structural applications such as pillars,etc.

 

[jsomedaysoon]

cool thats alot better than that 3m kit i found. i ordered a patch panel for the drivers side but they sent the passenger side. its all good it needed it to just not as bad so i guess i'll use that as practice.

 

[shift1313]

also make note that its recommended that you use a mig welder with gas(solid wire) rather than flux core. Im not totally sure why but i have heard that from more than a few people. When you go cutting floors out of junkyard trucks remember there is bracing welded to the bottom as well.

I was stripping the 89 i got for parts some more today and noticed when you open the door the entire way the Apillar moves! a lot!!. It was rusted out and someone put bondo over it. I think i got it to move about 1/2" at the hinge.

How does the outside of your truck look?

 

[jsomedaysoon]

also make note that its recommended that you use a mig welder with gas(solid wire) rather than flux core. Im not totally sure why but i have heard that from more than a few people. When you go cutting floors out of junkyard trucks remember there is bracing welded to the bottom as well.
I was stripping the 89 i got for parts some more today and noticed when you open the door the entire way the Apillar moves! a lot!!. It was rusted out and someone put bondo over it. I think i got it to move about 1/2" at the hinge.

How does the outside of your truck look?

not bad from a distance. on the drivers side you can see some rust creeping up the first few inches almost all the way down. the passenger side doesent look that bad. but when you open the doors and look close it looks bad. the more you look the worse it gets. but suprisingly all the important spots are solid. like where you were talking about at the hinges. thats solid. and under the seats.