replacing suspension bushings

[MACdaBOMBguy]

Looks like the underside needs an overhaul.

Worn out shocks, bushings, you name it.

I'm looking for some general pointers.

You know, stuff to do, stuff not to do. Stuff to stay away from, etc.

I keep to the roads for the most part and plan on keeping the lift stock.

thanks in advance folks!

 

[Bully Bob]

Might want to start with the rear springs....you'll get a feel for this type of work, then decide if you want to tackle the front.

My 1st one took a while but the last one went pretty quick.

SAFTY is the key with these projects..good jacks & stands, etc.

Might want to stop at a 4x4 shop.....they can "point" to a few things that may need discussion.

It requires some thinking & planning ...average mechanical skills

HTH

B

 

[rebelyelltex]

thats pretty much it. shocks should be somewhat easy, but if you are to do coils as well, be very safe and plan it out!

 

[MACdaBOMBguy]

A buddy told me you should do one corner at a time to avoid getting the cab cockeyed to the frame.

Do you do yours like this or front to back. Is there a prefered order for tackling the bushings?

I've got four goodjack stands. Should I get some more?

 

[Bully Bob]

"----should do one corner at a time to avoid getting the cab cockeyed to the frame----"

Actually (for the front) the oposite is true....on some years.

The radius arms need to be parallel for installation.

--Broncoholics could chime in & help you with this--

He's done "many"

The rear...I put stands under both frame rails. With wheels dangling in space, I put 1 stand under the axle tube I'm NOT working on to keep things stable on that side, while working the spring on my side.

Minor adj. may be needed as you progress.

I keep the floor jack under the "pumpkin" with a tad bit of press. to keep it stable, & for minor movements.

I now, can do both rear springs at the same time....but better to do 1 the first time.

Being the "chicken" that I am, I find as many ways as I can to brace the body, like big blocks under the bumper held by another floor jack...or even a cherry-picker hooked to the hitch ball, to give me time to run if something slips.

Put the bolts in the same direction they came out or they can bind on the rear shackle.

Lastly, you could do 1 spring with the other side wheel on the ground but it will be tougher to get the bolts back into the spring hangers & the U-bolts all squared up due to the a flex/angle.

 

[Justshootme84]

Good advice, all!!!

I have also replaced all of the suspension and body mount bushings on my 84 Bronco. Since I plan to keep it for many years, I chose to use poly urethane bushings. A master kit from Daystar costs about $200, but you get every bushing you'll need (and a few extras), except the anti-sway bar bushings. I got those from LMC Truck, made by Energy Suspension.

There is plenty of tech info on how to replace each item, like the radius arm or axle pivot bushings, in a link in the How-To & Tech Articles forum. Go to "Miesk5HomePage", and look in the body section. I also have some info at my superford.org gallery (link is in my profile).

You may need to remove rivets from one or both radius arm brackets by drilling or grinding, but that method is easier than pulling the whole front TTB axle section forward. THe axle pivot bushings are pressed into the ends of the i-beams, and I made my own tool to remove and install those. IF you replace the rear spring and shackle bushings, it's easiest to burn the old rubber bushings out, with the springs removed.

And if you opt to replace the 10 body mount bushings, that can be a very difficult job to separate the body mount upper and lower sleeves. That's a process where you want to work on one side at a time, since you need to raise the body 4-5 inches to remove the bushings. JSM84

 

[MACdaBOMBguy]

That's what I'm talking about!

mucho thanks guys!