pinion seals and do i really have a 9" rearend?

[tomassjj]

ok another question already, well i noticed some fluid puddled up around the rear yoke. after removing th drive shaft i put a wrench on th yoke nut and it was loose and i mean loose. after doin some research i learned that i cant just do that. i fifured out i gots to replace th crush sleeve or find an eliminator. so with that known 1 where can i get these parts? i seen some on napas site but they r mainly for 8.8 rears, which leads me to my next question. ive heard people say that if u can put a socket on th 2 bottom bolts of th carrier then its not a 9", well i can. butwith th tag #'s off th carrier they have lead me to believe that i have a 9" rear out of an 85 f150? is this poss with me bein able to put a socket on th bottom bolts or do i just have thin sockets? i mean they r craftsman sockets. once i do get the right bearings do i have to remove th whole csrrier or can i only remove th pinion? then th right torque? which from th research ive seen any where betwwen 150lbs to 200lbs on th nut to crush th sleeve but then they say rotational force is more accurate so what do i just put a torque wrench that goes down to 5 to 8lbs on it? am i gonna have to reset th back lash? or will this remain th same just as long as i put all th shims, assuming there r some, back in? just want to make sure this gets done right but i wanna doit my self i watched my dad do all this once when he was swapin gears out of 1 pumkin to another for his 67 'stang but heck that was 15 - 20 yrs ago n havnt thot about it since til now. and once again thanks for th info

 

[Bully Bob]

Hi jj.,

You can try this first....while the dr. shaft is off., spray the area with brake, or carb. cleaner. Blow-dry it with airhose.

Bolt a lengh of chain to the yoke bolt hole (use a spare bolt) & wrap the other end around the frame (don't need any slack) .... this will allow you to apply torque.

With a standard socket drive handle, turn the nut so as to loosen/tighten. If it turns ******* the threads, the nut is still good. If it turns fairly easy., it's bad. (you said it was loose...loose as in backed off or loose on the threads.?)

---Decision time---

Point being, it could be as simple as a bad nut.... or just never was torqued correctly.

If it were me, & the nut has good resistance to turning...I would torque it to spec. Re-clean area 'til it's clean & dry. Then drive it for a few hrs.

If leak re-appears., I would then remove the nut, & yoke...the seal is then easy to replace. At this time, I would probably just buy a new nut...they're special @ $4-$5.

Re-assemble & you should be good to go.

This is all assuming there was/is no strange noises coming fr. the pumpkin in the first place.

Drivelines shops (in your area) will have these nuts.

---------- so will the sponsor of this website (in MI.) JBG

http://www.jeffsbroncograveyard.com

 

[Elmo]

I am with Bully Bob remove drive shaft, nut, yoke,and seal(dont remove anything past the seal)clean everything(inside splines of yoke too) with brake cleaner blow dry apply locktite to threads of pinion shaft. Replace the seal,Yoke,and nut torque the nut down till you feel very slight resistance when you attempt to turn the pinion by; run nut down snug check the feel of the pinion rotation and try to push it in and pull it out you want to elimanate any slack here with small amounts of tightening on the nut. The goal is to get rid of the in-out movement then just a little bit more( like less than 1/8 turn of nut) at this point the nut will be very tight. Usually takes a 3-4ft cheater on my ratchet to get it finished the use of an impact to reassemble is not reccomended you REALLY dont want to go too far not a good idea to back up. Hope my rambling has helped and not bared you to sleep.

 

[tomassjj]

I am with Bully Bob remove drive shaft, nut, yoke,and seal(dont remove anything past the seal)clean everything(inside splines of yoke too) with brake cleaner blow dry apply locktite to threads of pinion shaft. Replace the seal,Yoke,and nut torque the nut down till you feel very slight resistance when you attempt to turn the pinion by; run nut down snug check the feel of the pinion rotation and try to push it in and pull it out you want to elimanate any slack here with small amounts of tightening on the nut. The goal is to get rid of the in-out movement then just a little bit more( like less than 1/8 turn of nut) at this point the nut will be very tight. Usually takes a 3-4ft cheater on my ratchet to get it finished the use of an impact to reassemble is not reccomended you REALLY dont want to go too far not a good idea to back up. Hope my rambling has helped and not bared you to sleep.

ok i have already tightened the nut not to spec but just snug. i didnt really pay attention to wether it was loose on th threads or just a bad nut. but if its that ez i'll prob just pick up a new seal and nut and go to town on it i have 2 torque wrenches 1 is long and i think it goes up to 150 to 200 lbs and th other is shorter almost like a reg wrench i think this 1 goes up to 600 lbs, and of course theres th good ol' breaker bar so between th 3 i think i can get it torqued just makin sure i dont have to mess with th back lash or th lovly crush sleeve if thats all i gotta do that doesnt seem so bad. its prob a bad nut cause it was very easy to turn it did snug up but i didnt really get down on it just wanted to stop th leak but i'll def get a new 1 and seal thanks for th info mite take awhile tyo get back to let yall know how it went im gonna have to do som work on my dads cars didnt realize no 1 was messin with them thot my step mom was but now i gotta replace 2 tranny pan seals and get 2 year old gas out of 2 stangs n a harley then i have to finish 1 stang for him by swappin th rear to an 8" he has for it then changin everything to a 5 lug pattern to mak th rearend n all new suspension too unfortunatley he didnt have time to finish it b4 th good lord need his bath room remodeled by th best plumber ever

 

[Bully Bob]

Yep.., a old, worn, sloppy NUT will back itself off... I know fr. experience.. :-"

And., it will happen at the most inopportune time..!!.. >

Do let us know when you solve this issue..... /

 

[tomassjj]

Yep.., a old, worn, sloppy NUT will back itself off... I know fr. experience.. :-"

And., it will happen at the most inopportune time..!!.. >

Do let us know when you solve this issue..... /

hey just wanted to let u guys know i got a new nut and seal but b4 i put on i decided to just try toquing th old 1 to 150lbs evrything snugged up no play in yoke th pinion to gears has some play but doesnt seem to dramatic. since i got th motor runnin n new brakes on th back, have to order new front caliper think they r seezed, i drove it a little bit not far since theres no tags on, yea i love living in out in the country, couldnt really hear alot of noise from th rear but 35x16.5 super swampers didnt help. so im just gonna keep an eye on it. still have to get the timing n carb adjusted wants to cut off when i put it n drive n since it has an old c6 not trying to dump it into drive to get it to go, if i put it in drive n time it right it will go just sittin stil is a pain

 

[Bully Bob]

KEWL...!

"th pinion to gears has some play but doesnt seem to dramatic."

This is normal & not a concern.

 

[Seabronc]

You can probably fix that tendency to stall by slightly bumping up the hot idle. Not sure which carb you have, but it should be a set ***** on the linkage side of the carb behind where the throttle cable hooks on.

If the carb is real old, a new one will do wonders for you.

Good luck,

>-

 

[tomassjj]

You can probably fix that tendency to stall by slightly bumping up the hot idle. Not sure which carb you have, but it should be a set ***** on the linkage side of the carb behind where the throttle cable hooks on.

If the carb is real old, a new one will do wonders for you.

Good luck,

>-

hate to keep using this thread for a diffrent prob, but the carb is a 4 bbl eldebrock think its either a 600 or 650 cfm had to look up at eldebrocks home page but its has th eldebrock recomending kit. I.E. the perfomer 400 intake and carb. im gonna get a tach to set th intial idle to adjust th carbs mixing screws then adjust th idle with my buddy holdin down on th brakes til it idles in drive. it already seems to idle high, but i do need to check th timing still since i havnt reall been able to do that since th new hei dist was put in. so thanks for all th great info and help guys. i'll let u know how this turns out n prob have more questions too, specialy when it comes time to put all th new body bushings i have for it on. so thanks again and until then yall havefun wheeling around

 

[86_Beast]

Difference between 9"s and 8.8's:

9":

8.8:

Hope this helps >-