Motor Swap! Fuel Injected 302 to a car. 351!

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VirginiaBronco

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Right now im sitting on a pretty nice Eddie Bauer 1990 Bronco. Im selling it (hopefully tommorow) and trying to pick up a 91 Bronco from a friend of mine for cheap. The new 91 Bronco has some blow by. Its a 302. He said I would replace the PCV valve...anybody done this? WIll it solve the probelm? Or...he said I could do a motor swap. My man is throwing in a 351 to sweeten the deal..however the 302 is fuel intjected and the 351 in carbuerated. How difficult is this swap? The motor mounts should be the same since they are both small block motors...and I need to change the intake (I AM NOT REALLY IN ANY KIND OF MOOD TO THROW A CAR. INTO THIS TRUCK)...but beyond that I am looking for some advice. Can anybody help me?

Thanks

--Mike

 

Shadow_D

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I doubt the PCV will fix the blow by. I'm not sure the top end of that 302 will work on the 351... What 351 is it, C, M or W?

 
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VirginiaBronco

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I doubt the PCV will fix the blow by. I'm not sure the top end of that 302 will work on the 351... What 351 is it, C, M or W?
I am not exactly sure yet...Ill be spaeking with him later today (it is like midnight). However I am about 95% sure its a W. The top end wont work??

Any suggestions for a fuel intake to adapt the 351 to actually work? Im not trying to spend a bundle...

I am no mechanic...how difficult will this swap be to pull off?

Are there any other solutions to blow by?

Thanks guys...I appreciate all the help I can get.

 

Shadow_D

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This is what I would do, if it was me...

Pull the heads and clean them up completely, you could have a burnt valve. If you do, a valve job is in order...

Next would be to rebuild the 302... (I say the 302 due to the fact it will be easier and I will explain why in a minute)

You are going to need a rering kit to fix the blow by. The kit should have all the parts needed like gaskets, rings and bearings. You should bring the bare block and crank to a machine shop and have them checked, cleaned and honed.

Back to the 302 being easier...

Your truck has a computer that controls the EFI on that 302, the swap to a 351 would require you to find a donor truck with a 351 EFI and pull all the wiring and computer out of it. Now you could do a 351 swap if you were going to get rid of the EFI so you wouldn't need the donor truck but I prefer the EFI over the carb. Some people here will fight me and say just put the 351 "carbed" in it and be done with it. That would be fine as well, both have "Pros" and "Cons". You need to let us know what you plan to do with the truck like are you going to go off roading on a regular bases or will it be a pavement queen?

I hope this helps you out. If you decide to do the rebuild there is plenty of information on this site and if you can't find it, just ask...

Good Luck

---Darrin

 
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VirginiaBronco

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Here is what I am thinking....

First off I spoke with my man...its a Windsor (thank god)

Secondly...what I plan to do with it...I might take her offroad once or twice...but not very often. Where I am located there are not really ay good trails...construction sites.. or anything fun! This place is WAY too developed. I'm guessing that leaves me with the carb being the better option?

To be honest, I love the W power, but I am fine with keeping the 302 in there. How much would that process be at a machine shop? I found a rering kit on ebay for a fairly reasonable price (its about 50 bucks...but lots of bidding to go).

What would be the cost to replace a valve? I tried to check on the forums and google...but nothing really came up.

OPTION 2: If I was to throw in a carb (assuming I decided to go with the 351...a low probability) how hard would that be and what would I have to do?

Thank you so much for your help. This is by far the MOST helpful forum and most informitive site that I have been on.

--Mike

 
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VirginiaBronco

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Also...I forgot to ask...in order of the essentially three options...what is the order from cheapest to most expensive (and if anybody really wanted to throw in estimate of prices that would be awesome:))

Rebuild 302 to fix blowby (with the rering kit) --also..how difficult is this?

Drop the 351W in getting new EFI (from a donor truck) computer and wires as well as intake

Drop in the 351 with a carb.

Thanks.

--Mike

 

JLasvegas

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sounds like quite alot of work, if you decide to go carb, you must also find all the linkage

 
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VirginiaBronco

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Ya the more I think about it the more I think I will just get the rering kit and fix that blowby. Not to mention my garage is not exactly "well funded" and I have no means of dropping in that 351 except brute force of 5 men...which I will say is impossible.

I WILL say this about that then

If I decide to stay with the 302...I might sell that carb'd 351W. Its got just under 100K orig miles on it. Anybody wants it I will prob stick it on the Northern Virginia craigslist classified. But who knows...I might hang onto it. If anybody is in great need of one right away message me.

Thanks.

--Mike

 

Shadow_D

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Well no mater what you decide to do, you are going to need some way to pull the motor out of the truck. Re-ringing the motor will require the motor out and on a stand so add the cost of some kind of engine hoist and an engine stand. Now if you're good at welding you could build your own engine stand but I think it would be more cost effective to just buy one, they cost around $50 - $150. engine stands

You can also go to Harbor Freight and get an engine hoist (Shop Crane) like this one Shop Crane. This usually goes on sale for around $150.

As far as the machine work goes, that depends on the shop but I would say, for the block work, around $500 give or take and head work I can't even begin to think what that would cost as I haven't done that in a while.

 

Justshootme84

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Virgiina Bronco, Shadow D has some great advice. I think you're best option would be to pull the motor, have it worked on at a machine shop, then put it back in. A garage will charge you about $2500-$3000 for this job. You can rent an engine hoist for $30-$40, as I've done with my 460 swap. You need a hoist to pull the engine, since it weighs about 500 lbs. A machine shop will bore out the cylinders to remove scratches, deck the surface for the heads, replace the cam bearings and freeze plugs, grind the crankshaft, and can rebuild the heads for you with new valves, guides, etc. My local shop charges about $300 to do the pair of heads, and about $400 for the machine work. He quoted me a price last year of $870 for the work, including new pistons and rings. Basically a "longblock" kit, which includes the engine block with new parts and the heads. A "shortblock" kit is around $470, and that's without reworking the heads. I don't see any reason not to have the heads rebuilt if you're spending that kind of money on the rest of the engine. I also replied to your other post about just replacing the rings to address the blow-by. What's happenign is the rings and cylinder walls are worn, allowing oil and the air/fuel mixture to pass. This burns oil, producing blue smoke out the exhaust in the extreme case. It also causes more pressure inside the cran kcase or engine block, which tends to blow out the end seals on the crankshaft. All of this info can be found in a HAynes or Chilton repair manual, which is helpful if you're not familiar with the parts. I'd suggest if you plan to keep a Bronco, buy one of these manuals for $20. Also, talk to your local machine shop or garage, and get some estimates. You might find a better deal than on ebay. JSM84

 
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VirginiaBronco

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Thanks to everybody so far. You all are really great.

After stumbling around on these boards...I found this. Supposedly a fix for blow by...anybody used this?

http://www.misterfixit.com/envalve.htm

It was recomended by one of the "commanders" I believe.

If you guys know anything about this...that would be great.

Honestly...the body of the truck I want to buy is absolutely gorgeous...the price is right...interior is amazing...comes with the 351W...and 2 sets of tires.

I am begining to think I might buy it...try that envalve...hope to **** it works....sell it and try to get a 95 or a 96 XLT with a stock 351...maybe even one with a rebuilt motor and/or tranny.

Seriously...the body has ABSOLUTELY ZERO RUST...its sitting on 33 in thornbirds with 80-90% tread...so the more I think and the more I babble here the more I want to buy and quick flip to someone who just wants to haul stuff or do construction work. Get some more money and pick up something a bit newer.

Any toughts?

I don't want to ***** anybody in this. If I buy it...I want to stop the blow by...hopefully with the envalve (link above) and as cheaply as possible.

Thanks.

--Mike

 

Yardape

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I am in the middle of a 460 swap into my Bronco, I have discovered a few hiccups so to speak that you would also encounter. First of all is your fuel pump and fuel lines, they are disigned for high pressure low volume fuel delivery, for a carb you would need low pressure high volume. I am swapping in a carbed bronco fuel tank and fuel lines as well as a holley blue fuel pump. I would try the engine rebuild in a can if I were you, it has never worked for me but they claim it works so you never know know you might get lucky. My 302 had bad blow by when I bought it and I ran it for a couple years til it finally kicked the bucket. Unless you really want to keep the 302 I would just drive it how it is til its dead then swap in the 351, you can find a 5.8 fuel injected from 88 up F series pickup and vans. Just be sure to grab the computer as well.

 

Bronco_Willis

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Just to add on....I did the fuel injected 302 to a carb. 351w with 750 cfm Edelbrock 4blb. Needless to say it took a LOT of work and time dealing with linkage and a few minor adjustments here and there. After I was finished and had everything timed and tuned correctly I was GREATLY happy with my change. Increased horsepower and torque dramtically. Best of luck my friend

 

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