Longwinded New Guy from Georgia, USA

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Luckless

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Whats up everybody! I recently bought a 1996 Ford Bronco 5.8 to spend all my money on. Since i've had the truck there have been a few things done. Check engine light led me to a bad TPS so that was replaced. Flashing overdrive light and hard shift led me to the torque converter and that was replaced. Now that all the lights are back to normal(except for ABS light) i did a basic tune-up. Next i bought a new set of black 17" MB wheels with 35" Hancook AT,s to replace the bent and broken 15" steel wheels with 33" tires. So next came the alignment and i find the ball joints are trash. Replace the ball joints. Truck is very driveable at this point so i started driving it. I've put about 1500 miles on the truck and it just shuts off rolling down the road at 60 mph and wont start back. During the parking lot diagnosis i pull the distributor to find the lower gear on the distributor is stripped and with a flashlight i can see marks on the camshaft as well. So here i am, ready to really spend some money and looking for suggestions. My plan is to pull the motor completely out of the truck and do a major tune-up. Pull the oil pan to make sure im free of debris, and while in there i will replace the oil pump(and inspect of course). New front and rear main seals, new timing set, new distributor, new camshaft set, new headers. The new headers will be followed by 3" true duals, x-pipe, single-chamber flowmasters and turndowns. While the motor is out, im also taking the transmission to be completely rebuilt with upgrades and shift kit. Im looking for suggestions on mainly what to do with the motor. I want an aggressive camshaft that works well with my setup but honestly don't know enough to make that decision on my own.(1996 5.8L EFI w/ auto and 4x4 on 35" tires) Any other suggestions of things i should do while remembering how much money im fixing to already spend?

PS I will get some pics posted, and thanks ahead for the suggestions and help.

 

Krafty

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check what gear ratios you have. for the 35's I would recommend a 4.11 set but look up a couple gear ratio charts to find what best suits your application

 
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Luckless

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Thanks. Somehow i havent even thought about gears. The 4.11 i think is going to **** my top end. I will be driving the truck on the highway every once in a while so i need a little top end. Did the 1996 come with multiple gear sets or was there just one setup? Not sure what mine is or how to find it.

 

Krafty

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with the 35's and 4.11's it would drive like stock 235/75R15's and 3.08's on the highway. thats why you need to look at the charts to see the difference in engine rpm's and tire size. if they hadn't been changed already then you can just look up the axle code on the door jam sticker. but another good way to tell is to jack it up and mark the rim and driveshaft yoke. rotate the tire until the yoke has made one complete rotation. 3.55 would be 3 1/2 turns of the tire, 3.08 gears = 3 turns of the tire. and so on.

 

Bully Bob

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Hi Luckless., welcome.!

Where RU..? 35's may actually "lose top end" in some conditions. You may be better served with 456's.

Google the ratio/RPM/power band charts...., also, there's a couple on this board as I recall.

Check me on this but I believe Krafty has the correct science..., but backwards.

Chalk the tire & the same spot on the garage floor. Put a mark on the dr. shaft. ONE rotation of the tire will give you three & one half turns of the dr.shaft.... "FOR 3:50 gearing"

Point being, the dr.shaft always spins faster than the wheel.

(Some rigs req. one wheel on the ground, some req. both wheels off the ground.)

Some diff's have tags on the cover bolts....still best to test.

 
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Krafty

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yes I had it backwards, thanks for the correction. my brain refuses to work on Saturdays.

 

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