Little By Little

[LumbermanSVO]

Hi folks,

I'm john and last week I purchased my first Bronco. It's an '86 351W H.O. XLT with the towing package. A little old lady put the first 140k miles on it then sold it to a tweaker who added 5k miles and 33's to it before I picked it up for $1800. Here it is:

The main use for it will be my DD until it dies. It will also be used for photography trips in the Pacific NW. I only buy older cars and drive them until I have used up all their life. Since this one was well taken care of, I expect it to last a good 10 years or so. There is a small list of things that need to be fixed, and another list of things I want to do, the second list is more for comfort than anything else. As I tackle these things I'll come back and update this thread with info, pictures and any questions I have.

First up is the brakes, there is a TON of pedal travel before they do anything, but then they work great. My dad(a retired for mechanic of 20+ years) is going to teach me how to adjust the drums on Sunday and hopefully that will fix it. While we are in there we are going to inspect them for wear and anything else that may need attention.

At the same time, we are going to investigate why the choke doesn't work.

Today I replaced the radio the Tweaker poorly installed, and properly installed a MUCH nicer Pioneer DEH-P800PRS in it. Even with a Metra dash kit, it still doesn't fit quite right, but it looks MUCH better and will support my future upgrade nicely. I added an AUX input and soldered a 12v to USB port to the harness. With a single 30-pin cable, my iPhone now plugs in and charges while providing sound to the radio.

(crappy iPhone pic)

While installing the radio, I pulled some lamp cord that was being used for some speakers. When I had the new unit in, only one of the two rear speakers worked. I pulled it out and found some lamp cord tied to the terminals, that explains that! The factory wires were still there, but the terminals were smashed and there were some T-Taps on them with some cut up wires coming off them. I removed the T-Taps and put new terminals on the wires, bingo! Working speaker.

Once I get some nice speakers for the doors, the rear speakers will go to make way for a couple amps. I did a test fit today and found that the bigger of the two amps will just barely fit if I remove the ash tray from the panel. I'll need to add a fan to remove the heat. The other amp will fit nicely on the other side as it is MUCH smaller. With the amps here, they'll be 100% out of sight. Here is the bigger amp mocked up:

(crappy iPhone pic)

While I had it apart, I think I found the source of the moist floor carpet in the rear. All the insulation behind the panel was destroyed and moist. I think the seal between the top and body is bad. The top has only been off once and the Tweaker put the mounting hardware on the wrong sides, so the ***** holes for the trim don't match up. I think I am going to leave the trim off and fab a cargo tray that rests on the ledge. It'll hide any valuables, like expensive camera gear, from prying eyes and give me more room to store stuff.

I also want to extend a big thanks to everyone here for all the great info I've already found! This looks like a good forum for great tech!

Stay tuned for my next update!

 

[miesk5]

yo L,

WELCOME!

Here is a Symptom Chart by our Sponsor, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard

•LOW PEDAL (Excessive pedal travel to apply brakes)

◦Air in hydraulic system - bleed hydraulic system thoroughly.

◦Brake shoes need adjusting.

◦Low brake fluid level - fill reservoir to proper level.

◦Poor quality brake fluid (low boiling point) - replace with approved fluid.

◦Broken front or rear hydraulic line (dual system master cylinder) replace hose.

◦Soft or weak hydraulic hose (expanding under pressure) - replace hose.

and one by Ford;

Excessive Brake Pedal Travel, Brake Pedal Feels Spongy When Fully Applied

Rear brakes out of adjustment.

ADJUST rear brakes.

Front wheel bearing out of adjustment.

ADJUST front wheel bearings.

Brake master cylinder or power brake booster dash unit mounting loose.

TIGHTEN nuts and bolts to specification.

Front or rear disc brake caliper attachment loose.

REPLACE or TIGHTEN as required.

Worn or damaged self-adjusters.

REMOVE brake drum and CHECK rear brake shoe and lining for proper adjustment. REPLACE brake shoe adjusting lever.

Brake pedal or support improperly mounted.

REPAIR or REPLACE as necessary.

Worn or damaged brake linings.

REPLACE brake shoe and lining.

Brake drum out-of-round or front or rear disc brake rotors with excessive runout.

REFINISH or REPLACE if wear exceeds limits.

Brake tubing improperly positioned.

CHECK brake tubing for misposition near heat source. Fluid can boil and result in spongy pedal response.

Low brake fluid level.

FILL as required.

Clogged brake master cylinder filler cap hole.

REPAIR or REPLACE brake master cylinder filler cap.

Air in system.

BLEED system

===

As for the Camper Top;

Weather Seal Terminology & Sources in 78-79 & 80-96 http://broncozone.com/topic/23435-rear-tailgate-weatherstriping/

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

==

GL with the Bronco!

 

[Captain D]

Nice Bronco, you got a deal. I like what you are doing.

 

[LumbermanSVO]

Thanks guys!

This Bronco is a big step up from the '82 Econoline I was driving.

It's nice to have something that is well cared for and I know will last a long time.

 

[Seabronc]

Welcome to the Zone / >

There are a couple of things that may cause the choke problem. #1 it may not be getting voltage (on an original Ford Holley you should be reading 7 volts at the choke, NOT 12 volts. The connection is off a tap on the alternator). #2 If someone hooked it to 12 Volts it may have burned out the choke spring. # 3 it may just need adjusting. Picture of the circuit attached. The attached diagrams are from an 83 but should be close to what is in your truck.

Some people resort to installing a manual choke, which isn't a bad idea since the electric chokes are a little problematic. You can get a kit from any dealer that carries Holley carburetor parts.

Good luck,

 

[LumbermanSVO]

The brake problem turned out to be leaky rear cylinders on both sides. We replaced them and my dad taught me how to do a brake job on drums, I've only ever done it on a disc car before. Learning the tricks from someone who has done it hundreds of times is always handy

As for the choke, the actuator rod had fallen off the butterfly. It's nice when a fix is free!

There are a couple of vacuum lines that are either missing or capped off improperly that I'm wondering about. On is on the small vacuum tree on the passenger side of the firewall. There is a hose coming off the side nearest the center of the car that is capped off with a bolt, where should that line be going? The other is attached to the bottom rear of the air filter housing on the passenger side. It points right at the passenger side fender, this home is completely missing, what should it be going to? My first thought was that these two items go together, but then are different sizes.

 

[Seabronc]

There are a couple of vacuum lines that are either missing or capped off improperly that I'm wondering about. On is on the small vacuum tree on the passenger side of the firewall. There is a hose coming off the side nearest the center of the car that is capped off with a bolt, where should that line be going? The other is attached to the bottom rear of the air filter housing on the passenger side. It points right at the passenger side fender, this home is completely missing, what should it be going to? My first thought was that these two items go together, but then are different sizes.

There is a vacuum chart showing the different connections for your truck. It is usually located on the radiator support but may also be on the underside of the hood. Attached is a 351 vacuum chart, keep in mind it may be slightly different than yours depending on where the truck was originally shipped to. The line line that is capped off probably goes to the Air Cleaner.

See the diagrams. The first two show the connection, but for some reason leave out a couple of connections. Usually is is hooked up like the small picture where I zeroed in on that line only. It goes to the connection on the bottom then from there to the side and then on to the vacuum motor on the intake snout. The A/CL BI MET is on the bottom of the air cleaner, the A/CL CWM is on the side of the air cleaner, and the A/CL DV is on the end top end of the snout.

A/CL = Air Cleaner

BI MET = Bi metal control (controls vacuum to the A/CL DV based on temperature inside the air cleaner) (like an ON/OFF switch)

CWM = Cold Weather Modulator (Also controls vacuum to the A/CL DV) (controls the amount of vacuum based on the temperature of the air in the air cleaner)(like a volume control)

DV = Diverter Valve (When engine is cold intake air comes off the manifold, as it warms up it mixes the external air with the air off the manifold, and when the engine is up to temperature it shuts off the air form the manifold and only takes in the cold air from outside the truck. Based on the input from the BI MET and CWM)

V REST = Vacuum restricter ( slows down the action of the changes in vacuum, helps when there is a sudden drop in the vacuum like you get during acceleration)

This would be a desirable hookup in Washington State. It will give the engine better start and run characteristics.

Good luck,

 

[LumbermanSVO]

That sounds like it may explain the hesitation with sudden WOT.

Carbs are magic mystery boxes to me, I'm used to playing with EEC-IV stuff.

 

[Seabronc]

That sounds like it may explain the hesitation with sudden WOT.

Carbs are magic mystery boxes to me, I'm used to playing with EEC-IV stuff.

The hesitation at WOT is more likely to be a bad diaphragm in the accelerator pump. Upon stomping on the accelerator pedal, the accelerator pump gives a shot of raw fuel into the carb to allow the fuel flow from the jets to catch up with the increased air supply from opening the butterflies wide. If you have too much or not enough fuel at that time it will hesitate. I would suggest, at the minimum, to install a rebuild kit, (soak the parts in carb cleaning solution which is available in gallon buckets from a professional auto parts supplier). Better yet, a re-manufactured carb, don't buy one that has only been rebuilt, a re-manufactured carb has every thing put back to factory minimums which is not the case with a rebuilt carb.

Good luck,

 

[LumbermanSVO]

I've rebuilt a carb before, the car ran just as bad after as it did before...

The only carb I've gotten along with was the one I never had to touch :-D

Maybe a reman unit isn't such a bad idea. After replacing the actuator rod for the choke, it got harder to start. I still need to do the checks listed above.

 

[LumbermanSVO]

Last week I took it on it's first road trip to explore the Olympic Peninsula scouting for photography locations. It ran great and fit my needs perfectly and I now know why you guys love these things so much.

At one point I was cruising down the road, I hit a bump and nearly jumped out of my skin, and of the door speakers suddenly decided to work for half a second, I wasn't sure they were even there! From then on out it would work intermittently. So this Friday I pulled off the panels and found the original speakers, and they were pretty much toast. I bought and installed a set of $80 Pioneer speakers then removed the failing rear speakers, did some tuning and now it sounds MUCH better.

Next up is to build a cargo cover for the rear.

 

[Seabronc]

Obviously you solved the carb problem. What was the problem or did you replace it?

 

[LumbermanSVO]

Obviously you solved the carb problem. What was the problem or did you replace it?

I just replaced it with a reman. I only have one day off a week and the rest of the week I'm out of town, so I don't exactly have a lot of time to troubleshoot stuff. In situations like this I just opt for a full replacement to save time, even if it costs more.

 

[LumbermanSVO]

Today the heater core blew, luckily no coolant came inside the cab, just lots of steam. I pulled off and looped the hoses together, dumped a bunch of water in the system then carried on my way. I already have the new core and an AC Delco pressure regulator that should prevent this from happening at high RPM's in the future. (I found the part number by a Google search here: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127835)

So, how much work am I looking at to replace the core? I found a thread on FSB that made it look pretty easy, but after feeling around behind the glovebox it doesn't seem like I have the super easy "remove the glovebox and core cover, then pull the core" setup. My Bronc has A/C and the High Output HVAC system.

I head out on the road for 6 days in my big truck in the morning so I'll be doing this next Friday. After I get done with the heater core I'll also be building/documenting the cargo and shelf.

 

[LumbermanSVO]

Well, I just took a shot at swapping the heater core and my suspicions were right, this isn't the super easy, behind the glovebox, heater core swap. Even though it has A/C, the core is under the hood and all but maybe one bolt to are under the dash. I can only find two of these bolts, the rest are hidden, and it's too cold out to freeze looking for them.

So for the first time in over a decade I'm just gOnna pay someone else to do it. With only I d day off a week, I'm not gonna spend that day yelling at the car.

 

[LumbermanSVO]

I haven't done too much to Ol Smokey lately, but the cargo cover needs to be done soon, as well as adding a rear window switch to the dash.

One thing I'm curious about is the batteries. My old '86 F-250 Diesel had dual batteries and they trays were big enough to fit big truck batteries (group 33?) on each side. Does anyone know if the single tray in the bronco can fit such a beast of a battery? Does anyone know a source for finding the factory tray for the second battery in the diesel pickups? I'd love to stuff a dual battery setup under the hood, with the big truck batteries, like my old diesel pickup.

 

[Seabronc]

I haven't done too much to Ol Smokey lately, but the cargo cover needs to be done soon, as well as adding a rear window switch to the dash.

One thing I'm curious about is the batteries. My old '86 F-250 Diesel had dual batteries and they trays were big enough to fit big truck batteries (group 33?) on each side. Does anyone know if the single tray in the bronco can fit such a beast of a battery? Does anyone know a source for finding the factory tray for the second battery in the diesel pickups? I'd love to stuff a dual battery setup under the hood, with the big truck batteries, like my old diesel pickup.

Why do you want dual batteries? A gas engine doesn't need them. The diesel has them because of the start current needed to get the engine running. The battery system is only to start the truck or supply small short term loads when the engine is off. Once the engine is running your alternator should be sized to handle all electrical loads.

One of the best dual battery system arrangements for your truck would include an isolating relay between them. It allows you to use one battery for extended periods with the engine off, such as trailer attached equipment, while not having to worry about running them both down to a point that you could not start the truck. With this arrangement you move things you would be running long term with the engine off to the isolated battery. When the engine is running the relay is picked and the alternator charges both batteries.

See this thread from yesterday http://broncozone.com/topic/23799-which-alternator/

Good luck,

 

[LumbermanSVO]

Actually yes, the reason is for running accessories without the engine running. Power inverter, radio(with external amplifiers), lights, etc,..

I spent some time installing high end (and giant) car stereo's so I'm very familiar with isolating the batteries and proper fusing, routing and wiring techniques.

It's always a MUCH easier project if there is already a bolt-in solution for mounting the batteries. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> That's why I'm wondering if the 2nd diesel tray is available anywhere or just strictly a JY part, as well as if the current tray is the same as the 1rst diesel tray.

 

[Seabronc]

Actually yes, the reason is for running accessories without the engine running. Power inverter, radio(with external amplifiers), lights, etc,..

I spent some time installing high end (and giant) car stereo's so I'm very familiar with isolating the batteries and proper fusing, routing and wiring techniques.

It's always a MUCH easier project if there is already a bolt-in solution for mounting the batteries.

That's why I'm wondering if the 2nd diesel tray is available anywhere or just strictly a JY part, as well as if the current tray is the same as the 1rst diesel tray.

Sorry. didn't intend to offend you. You didn't say that, and I often run into people wanting to put in a second battery for the wrong reason.

Best bet, as you already know, is a local friendly auto parts junk yard. Usually plenty of F250 and F350 diesels around. Don't know of any place carrying new ones. Easy to fabricate though.

Have a great day!