I have been looking for another Bronco to fix up and sell.

[Walter C.]

92-96 Broncos have gone up in value big time in the last few years I'm looking at beaters going anywhere from 3-5k decent ones like my 92 10-15k and cream puffs high 20's low 30's holy cannoli lol. I'm looking for that barn find.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Walter,
Welcome and good fortune on your quest!
We've had a 78 Bronco and now a 96 bought new and still looking great as well as passing state inspections every year with no issues.

Here is my check list, can use it in negotiations;
Check Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) for Model Year & Engine Type (for example; 5.0, 5.8, 4.9 or 351W CID 5.8 4 BBL Carb, etc.).
VIN Decoder; for 81-86 & 87-96 Bronco & Ford Truck @ Truck Parts and Truck Accessories
Probably temporarily down for daily updates


Member dash_cam offers very good advice on having an independent inspection done at sellers location! If you cant inspect it yourself, post Location in the noobie section and ask members for their help or seek out an ASE certified shop in area to inspect it for you. Google each for reviews especially in Yelp, Facebook, BBB.

Ask seller if cruise control, if equipped recall work completed by dealership? Call dealer & have VIN ready.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/foru...ruise-control-recalls-repair.html#post6530073

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and paint by Ford
- try opening and closing tailgate and moving glass
- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- auto tranny - E4OD in 90 to 96 had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing. Yo Look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.
- engine rear main/timing chain cover seals, etc.
- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive $ patch or full panel replacements at a body shop.
- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96, aka speedometer/odometer), make sure it works; look for a slight waver in the needle at highway speeds.
- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
- cab roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com
- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
- body mount deterioration and frame rust
-transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually a broken travel stop and/or the motor connector is fouled, etc.

●Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.

Same for:
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL), it is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Is it flashing while driving?

If CEL is lit while driving do a SELF TEST for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC)s by my pal BroncoJoe
or have such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.
For a 96, have it scanned for codes at most local parts stores.

The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system (4WABS) in 93-96 is self monitoring. When the key is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations. In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service.
Our module blew it's microprocessors a few years ago and two yard modules were bad. No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.

Suggest you buy the official FORD Powertrain Controls and Emission Diagnosis (PCED), Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) on DVD.. be sure your pc, etc will be able to read the DVD, or buy a paper version.

Cash is King!!!
"Cashier’s checks can be forged, money orders can be forged, and personal/business checks can be forged. Cash can also be, but it’s harder to make believable and easier to test. Take a powerful magnet with you. Yes a magnet. You see, on top of ID strips and watermarks, the ink the federal reserve uses has iron in it, therefore it will be attracted to a powerful magnet.
"by Froggmann @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...g-vehicle.html
Banks cash fakes, then hold you responsible. ..
As craigslist advises, "Do not extend payment to anyone you have not met in person.
Beware offers involving shipping - deal with locals you can meet in person.
Never wire funds (e.g. Western Union) - anyone who asks you to is a scammer.

Sometimes a seller may "promise" to return a certain amount of money during negotiations..
Transactions are between users only, no third party provides a "guarantee".
Never give out financial info (bank account, social security #, paypal account, etc).

A summary of questions to ask the seller;
* Do you have the title in hand and is there a lien on the Bronco?
* How do I get the title?
* Has the vehicle been in any accidents?
* Did this car belong to a smoker?
* Was this car used by pet owners?
* Are there any document or preparation fees?"
* Courtesy of ebay
AL

 

[paul rondelli]

I'm always looking around the Atlanta area for the next Bronco. You can still find a few around here for the 3-5 but most in that range are beaters .. or mud trucks that have been trashed.

Think of it this way. The reason the price has gone up is the new Broncos cost a ton. Everyone thinks they can just jump in a 25 year old Bronco and daily drive the **** out of it for 10,000. Most have no idea what they are getting into... and almost every Bronco I see now for 10,000 is still rocking original motor and tranny. I paid 3,000 for my 1993 in 2005 and 3,500 for my 1996 in 2015 …. They are both rocking the original power plants …. but the E4OD in the 1993 has finally died.

I couldn't even fathom paying 10,000 for a 25 year ride …. and having the tranny go out a few weeks later …. but it is going to happen ... time and time again in the next few years.

 

[johnnyreb]

I'm always looking around the Atlanta area for the next Bronco. You can still find a few around here for the 3-5 but most in that range are beaters .. or mud trucks that have been trashed.

Think of it this way. The reason the price has gone up is the new Broncos cost a ton. Everyone thinks they can just jump in a 25 year old Bronco and daily drive the **** out of it for 10,000. Most have no idea what they are getting into... and almost every Bronco I see now for 10,000 is still rocking original motor and tranny. I paid 3,000 for my 1993 in 2005 and 3,500 for my 1996 in 2015 …. They are both rocking the original power plants …. but the E4OD in the 1993 has finally died.

I couldn't even fathom paying 10,000 for a 25 year ride …. and having the tranny go out a few weeks later …. but it is going to happen ... time and time again in the next few years.

Awhile back--about 20 years ago. I bought a 78 for $400.Bad motor. I replaced the motor and about everything under the hood. The 4 row radiator was close to $500 alone. I had about $1,500 just under the hood . Two guys heard I was thinking about saleing it. I told them about the new tires and everything and told them I wouldn,t take less then $2,600. They said they knew I only paid $400 and that was all they would give me. I told them forget it.I,d keep it. Then one started to get smart and I told them they best get in their truck and leave. At the time I never noticed I had shown my gun. When I went to put my hands on my hips.I had raised the shirt I had on. One saw it and his eyes got big and said ok,man.We,re leaving. As they were backing out I had looked down and seen what I had done.hahaha They both were bigger then me. Some people expect you to put alot of work and money in one and same as give it to them. In time I have done more to it and I,m to close to getting it done and on the road. Some people don,t consider all the money and work a person can put in one to make it road worthy and sale it cheap.