Hood is screwed!

[FriscoFried]

Hey guys, had a bit of a snafu last week.

Left lights on, battery died. Had a guy at the auto shop across the street from my work come jump with a portable battery. Got it going up and fine, but I didn't realize he didn't slam down the hood hard enough, just enough for the grill catch to engage. Got about 4 blocks down before the hood flew up on me @ ~25 mph. Was able to pull over safely.

My problem is now the hood is low towards the cab and I can't figure out how to raise the rear portion of the hood.

When the hood is fully closed now, the front of the hood is flush with the sides. The rear of the hood (closer to the cab) is lower by maybe half an inch or so on both sides. This also causes clearance problems when opening the hood and now the rear scratches the frame quite a bit. I believe I actually have to bend it slightly to get the hood open. See some pics below.

Would I be best trying to loosen and reset the bolts that hold the hood to the levers? Maybe I should get a new set of those spring levers that hold the hood? They seem just the slightest bit bent at the stop that prevents the lever from becoming completely straight.

Any help is appreciated!

 

[miesk5]

Yo FF,

What year?

Inspect for any bent sections of the hinges. Also see if the wedges, if any have shifted; sometimes you can see the difference in the rusted section vs, the clean section if the hinge wedges have shifted.

This is for most late 80s through 96;

Hood Alignment

Open hood and mark hood hinge and hood latch (16700) locations.

Loosen inner screws attaching hood hinge to front fende.

See this diagram;

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/n7410e.gif

Item Part Number Description

1 16796 Hood Hinge

2 N803506-S55 ***** and Washer Assembly

3 N800538-S100 U-Nut

4 16612 Hood

5 16K700 Link Assembly, Hood Hinge (RH)

6 16K702 Link Assembly, Hood Hinge (LH)

7 16005 Front Fender (LH)

8 N800628-S36 Washer

9 N800297-S55 Bolt

A Tighten to 17-27 Nm (13-20 Lb-Ft)

B Tighten to 15-20 Nm (11-15 Lb-Ft)

Adjust the hood hinge up or down or rotate as required to obtain a flush fit between the hood and top of cowl panel. Tighten inner bolts attaching hood hinge to front fender.

Loosen two screws attaching hood latch.

Loosen screws attaching hood hinge to hood.

Move the hood forward or rearward and from side to side as required for a proper hood fit. Then, tighten screws attaching hood hinge to hood.

Move hood latch from side to side as required to center hood latch with the hood latch striker (16K689). Tighten hood latch attaching screws.

Lubricate each hood hinge at all pivot points with Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B.

Check alignment of hood and hood hinge by opening and closing hood.

Make sure lubricant has worked into pivot points...

..

Hood Hinge

Open hood.

On one side, place a rag between hood and cowl and loosen hinge-to-hood screws, then retighten snugly but not tight. Remove rag.

Close, but do not latch hood (secondary latch will latch, but not primary). Adjust until parting line between hood and cowl is even all the way across and the distance between the hood and the front fenders (16005) is even on both sides and front to back.

Raise hood and tighten hood hinge screws.

Close hood and make sure it latches properly. If necessary, adjust hood latch.

...

Hood Latch

***NOTE: Before adjusting the hood latch, make sure the hood is properly aligned.****

The hood latch can be moved from side to side to align the hood-to-fender gap and up and down to obtain a flush fit with the front fenders.

Loosen hood latch retaining bolts in radiator support until they are just loose enough to move front fender (16005) from side to side.

Move front fender from side to side to align it with opening in hood.

Lower overslam bumpers.

Move front fender up or down as required to obtain flush fit between top of hood and front fenders when upward pressure is applied to front of hood. Secure hood latch retaining screws to 22-34 Nm (16-25 lb-ft).

Raise two overslam bumpers to eliminate any looseness at front of hood when closed.

Open and close hood several times to check operation.

Hood closing efforts and inside hood release efforts should not be excessive. Inside hood release efforts should not exceed 20.3 Nm (15 lb-ft). If excessive efforts are required, raise the front fender or lower overslam bumpers.

...

I believe Malcolm shows more info in his Hood Replacement in an 86 by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/4970/20963#content

But site is down or very slow. It is being worked on by the tech group.

...

Or if 78 to 79 Hood Latch Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 78 w/Nomenclature by Indybronco (Lula Mae) @

http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/307042_1

But site is down or very slow. It is being worked on by the tech group.

...

Next time, please fill out your Signature with year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. for better responses.

Click your name in right black panel in upper right;

In pop up,

Click, My Profile

Click, Edit My Profile in right side black panel

In left panel, Click, Edit Signature

Enter info

Click, Save Changes

..

BTW, how did your previous issue with ignition switch turn out?

 

[Seabronc]

It looks like the hood hinge has been moved by the sudden opening.  I can't see the bolts that hold it in position against the firewall, but from the other pictures it appears that it is either bent or moved down where it attaches.  All adjustments for fit are done with the two hinges.

Pictures of new parts:  http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Hood-Hinge-Right-1980-96/productinfo/34656/  

>-

 

[FriscoFried]

Wow great stuff guys. It's an 88 btw.

Won't be able to get around to it till Sunday but look forward to it. Giving the ol gal a little bit of a facelift. Will try to get you guys some before/after pics!

 

[FriscoFried]

Finally got around to it (been a long 2 weeks). Realigning the hood was quite easy, but I think I must've bent the entire hood slightly because the corners are flush, but the middle section near the wipers is still roughly half an inch low at its lowest.

What was interesting was that I first tried to line up the bolts with their original position, but the hood didn't align properly with that configuration. It took a bit of trial and error, but finally got (most of it) flush. Great video Seabronc.

@miesk5 thanks for the tips. To be honest, I don't frequent BroncoZone too much (wish I had more time), but this is usually my first stop for information and eventually opinions. As far as the ignition switch, I had to get a replacement (~$20 shipped) because the plastic latches that hold it together, and subsequently create good contact, were heavily worn and barely holding on. Not too difficult of a fix after all and only took a good chunk of my Sunday /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Thanks again fellas