Gradually rising temperature

[B-Co Kid]

Heater core is not connected. It is looped at the water pump and blocked off. I never heard of burping the cooling system. May give it a try.

 

[Rons beast]

Burping is needed when a cooling system is modified and the highest point is not at the radiator cap, or some other area allows air to be trapped.

 

[Seabronc]

Heater core is not connected. It is looped at the water pump and blocked off. I never heard of burping the cooling system. May give it a try.

Do you mean that you have a loop of hose going from the pump heater port to the head return port?

>-

Can you post a picture of that?

 

[B-Co Kid]

This is how i currently have the water pump configured.  However, I was looking at another B-Co setup online and it looks like i may have the hose to the thermostat housing mixed up.  any suggestions?? (for some reason it flipped the image.  sorry)

 

[Seabronc]

From what I can see of that hose hookup, it appears that the bypass hose is hooked to the wrong pump port.  The bypass hose should be hooked to the top port and the heater hose should go to the bottom port.  If you are cutting out the heater the cap needs to be moved to the bottom port and the bypass to the top port.  With that arrangement, you are disturbing the return flow to the radiator.  The way it is you are pumping water fron the radiator directly back into the head right next to the return hose to the radiator. That would account for the gradual increase in temperature.

Here are a couple of pictures I found in my files of pump hose routing

 
 
>-
 
picture 1 shows hose connections,  picture 2 shows radiator to pump connection, picture 3 shows heater hose routing

 

[Seabronc]

Make sure you see my edits to the above

 

[Seabronc]

Also, is the fan shroud in place?  Where are those other two hoses I see in your picture going? The ones to the left of the radiator hose, braid clad and black one next to it.

Give me another picture from the front that shows all hoses, several pictures if necessary.

>-

 

[B-Co Kid]

Great news, thats an easy fix!! Another problem solved thanks to you guys!! Thanks seabronc!

 

[B-Co Kid]

The fan shroud is in place and in tact. I modified the fuel plumbing,

So the steel braided line in the original pic runs from fuel pressure regulator to the carb

Inlet (see pic below). The smaller black hose immediately to the left of the radiator hose, runs from the carb to the vacuum advance canister on the distributor. I will swap the the hose on the

water pump to the correct configuration today, and post results!

 

[Seabronc]

The fan shroud is in place and in tact. I modified the fuel plumbing,

So the steel braided line in the original pic runs from fuel pressure regulator to the carb

Inlet (see pic below). The smaller black hose immediately to the left of the radiator hose, runs from the carb to the vacuum advance canister on the distributor. I will swap the the hose on the

water pump to the correct configuration today, and post results!

That's a pretty engine  /

It should run around 195 to 200 after it settles down.

>-

 

[B-Co Kid]

Thanks! And thanks for your help!!

 

[Seabronc]

If you decide to re-hook up your heater, I think you are missing the return connection.  It should look like the circled item in the picture attached.  You may have a plug in the place the ****** mounts.

>-

 

[B-Co Kid]

Yes its plugged off. When I decide to attach the heater again, which side of the heater core goes to what?? (Passenger side heater core connection to return on top of manifold and bottom port on water pump to driver side port on heater core?)

 

[Seabronc]

Heater hose routing

>-

 

[B-Co Kid]

Got it.  Thanks!

 

[B-Co Kid]

Still having the gradually rising temp needled even after I corrected the tube routing at the water pump. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Rons beast]

I would take out the tstat, put it in a *** of water and see if it opens at the right temp.....or just change it.....even if it was new.

 

[Seabronc]

If you keep running it will it eventually overheat and blow out to the overflow?

It is possible that the t-stat doesn't open fully.  It is inexpensive to change.  While you have the water neck off, make sure the holes are clear and not gunked up, both the bypass port and the main port, on both the water neck and head.  Also, that engine will run most efficiently with a 195 t-stat. If the system is right it shouldn't go much higher than that.  

Just a thought,  do you know the water pump is good?  Have you ever taken it off to see what condition the fins are in?

Just looking at the picture of your engine. Is the top radiator hose looped higher than the top of the radiator?

>-

 

[B-Co Kid]

The water pump is fairly new, so I'm assuming its still good. I havent removed it since the rebuild. The engine was rebuilt about 3-4 yrs ago, water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, hoses, were all new, radiator was cleaned and reinstalled. I've put less than 1k miles on the engine since the rebuild, so everything is fairly new. The loop of the upper radiator hose is not higher than the neck of the radiator (see pic). I will install a new thermostat as you and Ron suggested, hopefully that works.

**sorry for the double post

 

[Seabronc]

so you didn't answer my first question.  

If you keep running it will it eventually overheat and blow out to the overflow?

>-  

PS.

My system did not need the heater installed, but Ford did design this system with continuous flow through the heater coil.  Just grabbing at straws, since your system seems like it should be good, maybe you should try hooking the heater coil back into the loop.