getting these KOEO and KOER codes...a little help?

[jramirez35]

did BroncoJoe's self test...ice cream included which happened to be the hardest part of the test. anyways...came up with the following:

KOEO

84

84

1

33

33

I think the last 3 codes were the continuous codes because there was a long pause between 84 and 1.

KOER

12

41

33

52

12

41

33

52

Any help with these would be appreciated...i am almost positive there were no vac leaks. I ran the tests twice to verify what i came up with...only to get the KOER codes i dont have a OD switch to push so i just waited for the quick flash BroncoJoe hollered about. Thanks all and stay safe.

 

[miesk5]

yo

KOEO;

DTC 84 & 558: CHECK RESISTANCE OF EVR SOLENOID indicates a failure in the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid circuit/Damaged EVR solenoid; Open harness, Shorted harness, Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 at the breakout box and EVR circuit at the EVR solenoid vehicle harness connector. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms? No - SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components.RERUN Quick Test. Yes - GO to DN13. DN13 CHECK EVR CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER OR GROUND. Key off. EVR solenoid disconnected. Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pins 37 and 57 at the breakout box. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pin 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box. Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? No - SERVICE short circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. If DTC is repeated, REPLACE EVR solenoid. Yes -REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT EVR solenoid. RERUN Quick Test. as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC pin instead; for instance - Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pin 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box. Substiture EEC for breakout box. See EEC Connector Pin & Pin Outs Diagrams & Overview

EEC IV Connector Pin Diagram

EEC IV PIN Descriptions both by RYAN M

more EVR LINKS in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=414

DTC 1 No such code

DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing; so EZiest & cheapest checks are to inspect & repair/replace repair any bad vac lines. for a <$ vac line test; I pull em off and use the straw sucking test; one finger over one end; The EVP is attached to the top of the EGR valve and provides a signal to the EEC system indicating the position of the EGR valve.

Testing & Operation; "...The EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor monitors the position of the EGR valve pintle. The EVP sensor converts the mechanical movement of the pintle into an electrical voltage signal which is relayed to the PCM. The EVP sensor is a linear potentiometer in which resistance varies with the EGR valve pintle movement. Voltage is fed to the EVP by the signal return circuit. As the EGR is opened the EVP directs more voltage to the EEC and less down the voltage reference circuit. The EVP sensor provides the PCM with information on EGR flow and EGR system failures. The EVP should read between 0.24 and 0.67 volts at idle with a closed EGR valve..." read more

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=35

many parts stores will Loan a hand held vac pump for a refundable fee.

more EVP LINKS @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=414

KOER

DTC 12 can't control engine RPM high RPM self test; vacuum leak, TB base idle off, EGR stuck open. Check the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve port in TB for Sludge; Suspect throttle body coking.

DTC 41, 42, 91, 92, 136, 137,139, 144, 171, 172, 173, 175, 176, 177 & some Possible Causes for Rich & Lean HEGO The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. To accomplish this, the engine should be at normal operating temperature

DTC 52 Steering wheel not turned during test or Power Steering Pressure Switch problem

The Power Steering Pressure Switch signals the EEC Module when power steering pressure exceeds 350 psi ±50. The engine then increases idle speed to compensate for the additional load. It appears the switch was deleted from the 94 model year. It only shows up in the diagrams until 93. the switch is screwed into the high pressure port of the PS pump.

 

[jramirez35]

Thank you my bro. I absolutely love having this forum to go to...back in the 80s and 90s growing up there was no help like this available. I have learned so much over the past couple of years. PS gear box has a major leak right now so that could be a culprit as well for the 52 code. Hopefully that switch is available to replace if necessary. was gonna take out the IAC already because i was having some idling problems already and suspected that after hitting up the forum on monday. EGR problems usually call for replacing the valve right? I mean beside a vac leak you cant take this apart and clean it out to rebuild it right? thanks again. i look forward to responses.

 

[jramirez35]

Oh another thing miesk...can i rent that breakout box? $400 is not something i think i am prepared to spend on a randomly used tool. Advise if you know of a better deal than that or know if an autoparts store loans these out. got AZ, NAPA, Oreillys, Advanced in the area. thanks again.

 

[miesk5]

yo J,

yw,

You can buy the BO Box on e bay for less $

Break-Out Box Overview; "...The breakout box put itself between the engine and the computer, and allowed the user to rapciously access the information being exchanged. They are simply a pinout board, mounted in a box, with associated cabling, like this... You can see the way the cabling hooks into the computer and then bridges into the automobile system. A closer look at the pinout board, little holes numbered to correspond to the numbered wires in the connector:The output is readable with a high impedance (this is IMPORTANT- Digital Volts Ohmeter (DVOM) No cheap knockoffs here, they may fry the computer by introducing their own voltage.) Not as fancy as a scanner which decodes the meaning for you, but valuable nonetheless because you can always look up every meaning of the output signal somewhere. Like on the factory manual CD or in the manual itself! FORD decided to make maximum use of the breakout box, and designed add ons to allow you to look at other systems. Here for example, is a harness (still looking new in the wrapper) that hooks into all the Distributorless Ignition System (DIS). It connects to the sensor connectors... allowing you full access to the signals, even while the engine is running: TFI (thick film Ignition) Yes there is a cable for this. Mine cost me $15. Here is the diagram ...There was an adapter for the breakout box that read the brake codes, AND... AND... did the procedure for properly bleeding them. It was called the anitlock Brake Adapter (ALA) and looks like this when installed in the unbilical for the breakout box: Betwen $125 and $200 on E-bay. Worth every penny if you want to look inside that engine..."

Source: by Glacier991 (Chris) at http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80910

Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-10-9 for 89-91 Bronco & F Series & many others; CLICK NEXT Source: by miesk5 at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/910741

Now look at what our friend here, NELBUR did;

Modification; "...I have spent some time this week trying to set up an air bypass around the IAC valve by cutting away some of the gasket between the IAC in and out air holes, rather than pay big bucks for Fords spacer kit. I cut away the center of the original IAC gasket from the outside of each hole to the outside of the other hole, giving about 1/2" gap for the air to pass through. I noticed an immediate improvement in the engines starting behavior, but it would still die occasionally. For most of my trucks life it has been dying when it was started hot. It would rev up and then drop the idle so low it would die unless I would catch the idle with the accelerator. It would never die when cold as the IAC would keep the idle speed up, and it never died at stop lights. Now it's worst situation seems to be when it has been shut down for a half hour or so, and restarted. I wonder if the heat soak is fooling the ETC into thinking the engine is warmer than it really is. I decided that more improvement could be had if I had a thicker gasket, because the original IAC gasket was very thin (0.018"). I had some 0.030" gasket material so I made my own with the same 1/2" cut out. This gave enough bypass to noticeably raise the idle speed and almost eliminate the dying. After maybe 50 starts in the last few days, it only died twice. After so many years of catching it with the accelerator it is darned hard to leave my foot off it. It is clear to me that by trial and error one can tune the air bypass without the need for the expensive Ford kit. I may combine the two gaskets for more bypass, but the idle is about as fast as I would want now, especially for driving in snow..."; miesk5 Note, Tomco makes an idle plate P/N 8491 = to Ford, P/N F2PZ9F939A; Like Ford’s service kit, Tomco’s spacer plat e (arrow) is installed between the air bypass valve and its mounting boss using two gaskets. The two holes in the plate are for bleeder screws, which provide a minimum air rate adjustment independent of the throttle opening.

Source: by Nelbur at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/22150-fast-idle-problem/page__pid__115710#entry115710

 

[jramirez35]

so you are saying it is worth every penny...fair enough. did not know it did all that and i will start combing ebay looking for it. i am an electronics tech by trade and was gonna make one myself as i already possess a Fluke DVM and your right they are worth the money. so basically it is a pigtail connected to a set of test points in parallel to the various connectors it can test. i am usually up to doing something like this but there is a world of difference between $400 and $120 or $200. As usual, thanks for all the help you provide. I looked up your link and took a good look at the egr stuff and will probably hit it this weekend. the egr components are all the original ones and replacing should be around $120-$150. sucks to spend it but this is the last of repairs to the engine i am making right now. set the timing last night (was actually at about 2* ATDC which threw me for a loop but the distributor was lose so no worries) and she sounds good but the emission codes i want to get rid of no matter what it takes. the egr is probably stuck and the o ring is probably nonexistent on the evp sensor. just seems like time to replace anyway but i will wait till i hook up with a breakout box and ensure it buy reading the voltages.

 

[miesk5]

yo,

That was a quote from someone else. I know they are worth the $ if you have the info to use it; and you can make your own as you wrote.

The cost could be recovered after one or more repairs.

Someone did make one for a Scoprio that has almost same EEC IV.

Compare his pin outs to Ryan's for your year; same exc that the Merkur does not use as many pins; for various components