Front Locking Diff on Daily driver

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SASSQASH

SASSQASH

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DNBELOWBRONCO, i see in your rig discription that you are running 35" on a 4" lift, unless I read it wrong, do you get any rubbing? What gearing did you change, or do the 10.25 and Dana 44 have the correct gearing for it. I'm at this point just looking at a 4" with 33" tires. One more thing, will my 15 inch rims hold the 33"X12.5 or do I need to change those as well?

 

DNBELOWBRONCO

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DNBELOWBRONCO, i see in your rig discription that you are running 35" on a 4" lift, unless I read it wrong, do you get any rubbing? What gearing did you change, or do the 10.25 and Dana 44 have the correct gearing for it. I'm at this point just looking at a 4" with 33" tires. One more thing, will my 15 inch rims hold the 33"X12.5 or do I need to change those as well?
I changed the gears to 4.56 when I still had the 2.5" Rough Country lift and 33's because I knew I was going to go to 35's. I had 33x13.50x15's on stock 15x7.5" stock Aluminum mags. People here said I was pushing it with 7.5" rims, but I ran Super Swamper LTB's, aired down to 18 psi, off road and never had a problem. However, I don't do mud so I don't spin and tach them out, more of a trail/rock/dirt camping wheeler. I have 17x8" wide steel rims with my 35's now after jumping up to the 4" lift and 1-ton rear end. I went with 17's because I knew I was going to do an 8-lug swap later to match the Sterling. I hoped it would limit the grinding of the knuckles required with 15's and the 8-lug swap. One thing to always do is think ahead and picture what is the most you will upgrade your Bronco in the future. For me it will be 4.88's and 37's. The Sterling will handle that now, even better with 4.88's. The D44 ttb is going to struggle with 35's, if I lay into it off road, so for 37's I need to do a SAS.

Basically, 4.10's and 33's is the same power band (middle on the graft)as stock 3.55's and 31's. When I had my 33's and 4.56's I was at the (top end) of the power spectrum, basically better low end torque, less gas millage. I knew however that I was going to want 35's to raise the diffs as much as possible and 35's with 4.56's would again put me equal to stock ( 31's and 3.55's). Now 4.88's and 35's would put me back on top (more torque) but at that time 33's and 4.88's would be terrible and I knew it would be a while till I could do the bigger lift/tires/gears/1-tons etc so I had to stick with 4.56's. That's what I mean by projecting where you see your build going to the extreme end. I would love to be running 35's and 4.88's right now but I knew back then with the 33's it was the wrong move.

I didn't have any real rubbing with my 33's and the 2.5" lift but I notice some on the right front when backing up with my 35's and the 4" lift. I did notice the right front is almost an inch lower than the left so I need to see if it is something under the coil that's affecting the difference and causing the rubbing. The rear was measured when it was just aligned and both sides are even. If you feel any rubbing later there is also a set ****** on the back of the knuckle, that can be turned out so it hits the axle housing and stops the wheel before it starts to rub on the radius arm. >:) -Kevin-

 
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SASSQASH

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thanks for the info! if i'm not planning on switching to the bigger rear diff and keeping my stock 8" what gearing would I need for 33" tires? I've posted in another forum, the ole lady likes the look of a raised truck, I like the functionality, so i'm going with before she changes her mind. If I were to got with a 4" lift, 8" rear diff, and 35" tires what gearing would you reccommend?

 

wileec

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35" tires will be happy with 456 gearing that will keep it close to stock. I am more than happy with 456 and 32-33 " tires. But I like the slow go on the rocks.

 

DNBELOWBRONCO

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It's got 3.54 in the front and 3.55 in the rear so 4.56 would be fine like Wileec said. That will be plenty on the street and will work fine off road when you do too. If you plan on wheeling it you may want to just install a locker instead of a limited slip in the rear. I wouldn't go up to 4.88 with an 8.8 because it is a lot of stress on the case with just 33's so 35's would be worse. If you spend most of your time on the street, camping or light wheeling you'll be fine. Light wheeling doesn't mean you have to pussyfoot around, it just means if you plan on rough wheeling or a lot of big rock crawling you'll want to consider changing out the diff to go up to 4.88's or larger. I can fly down the freeway at 75 no problem and the rpm's are very low and it is plenty quick off the line. I would like 4.88's only because I want to lock the diffs and want to crawl over bigger rocks and hit some taller hills and basically bulletproof the drive train to limit how much breakage I will have. Plus I like building things solidly so I don't have to put too much into them later when I'm having fun. Make sure to do the 6liter tune-up so help with performance off the line and so your E4OD doesn't downshift as much when going up hills on the freeway or when the cruise is on. http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63592 Good Luck Man! >:) -Kevin-

BTW, have you seen this thread for soft tops?

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192899&highlight=soft+top

This a a member on FSB with a rig that looks like mine so now I can see what mine will look like so now it's KILLING ME!

http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n486/oneilj18/

 
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