Found Cracks in Seam Sealer

[Ozark Hauler]

I'm doing some wrenching and spring cleaning on my 94' EB . I've pulled all the interior and when I removed the rear carpet and main carpet I found cracks in the seam sealer on the long seams of the center floor section that runs the full length of the rear cargo area from the tail gate to the bottom of the Drop-Down Ledge in front of the rear seat next to the front seat belt assy .

It looked wet and had mud residue so I figure I may have a problem . Has anyone else ever seen this ? Is it a "Fluke? or a "Flaw" ? The cracks start about 1-2" before where the cargo floor drops off and goes down to the rear of the front floor boards . I have a sand blaster , epoxy sealer and seam sealer I figured I'd try to get to the back side and treat the area on both sides .

 

[miesk5]

yo

the oem seam selaer will shrink or crack over time.

Good that you have the sealer instead of using silicone; it is a + product.

Also, do you have any metal fatigue cracks on cab top area near drip rails? this is common and could cause water leaks.

 

[Ozark Hauler]

yothe oem seam selaer will shrink or crack over time.

Good that you have the sealer instead of using silicone; it is a + product.

Also, do you have any metal fatigue cracks on cab top area near drip rails? this is common and could cause water leaks.

Hey Miesk5 ,

Yeah the seam sealer has prolly shrunk like you said . But it looks to be drawing water , which is REAL bad ! Means that the seam is compromised on the underside . I'm hoping I can gain access to sand blast the seam , Epoxy Prime Seal it and then use the 3M Seam sealer there too , otherwise the joint will rust .

Yeah , there is a health crack on the D/S drip rail at the rear end of it . I've been scratching my **** raw trying to figure that one out far as repairing it .I can do body work and have the equipment but I'd hate to have to expose that seam and then have to repaint it after a repair . Kinda hard to match 14 year old paint !

More later , My camera batteries are DOA so no pics .

Steve

 

[miesk5]

Yeah , there is a health crack on the D/S drip rail at the rear end of it . I've been scratching my **** raw trying to figure that one out far as repairing it .I can do body work and have the equipment but I'd hate to have to expose that seam and then have to repaint it after a repair . Kinda hard to match 14 year old paint !

Steve;

That is an often occur. prob.

Look in my site here - http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=465

esp;

the TSB;

Roof Cracks Repair Procedure TSB 96-20-11 for 80-96 Source: by Ford via miesk5 (Al M) at comcast.net

the kit may be hard to find or simply na now at dealerships

so; a DIYer;

Repair in a C350 Centurion (click Tech write ups and Installs) Source: by BJS

and...

Damage in an 81 Source: by Larry S - btw he has same prob @ "crack growing along the driver's rear cargo floor starting at the floor pan kickup right behind the driver's seat. The rusty bulge also appears on the passenger side. I cannot tell what is causing these.The second picture shows the driver' side rear seat reinforcement pulling away from the floor pan. The third picture shows the lower part of the B-pillar itself pulling away from the floor pan..."

 

[Ozark Hauler]

Hey meisk ,

Thanks for the links ! Got them saved . Our Bronco has been a work horse I've hauled 12-4k weights before up and out of our valley , 2 ton boulders,trees and gravel .

Until this winter (Feb-March) I had considered selling it and getting a truck but after it's performance in fast flowing water up to the top of the fenderwells I knew for sure we would have been trapped downstream in a truck . As it was the water spun the Bronco headlong into the current but in low/low we were able to come out of it (needed to check on neighbors that were land locked from the floods) We call our road "Bobble Head Road" , it's a very rough and often impassable road . One guy put it to us like this : "This road is so Dang rough It'll knock the thoughts right outta yer head " I've put 3 batteries in the truck in 3.5 years from shaking the plates loose , and replaced the front suspension OEM bushings with poly including the Radius Arm Bushings . I have 6 Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks and the bushings need replaced in them . I was able to grind some of the ends of the shock bushings off and tighten them up but I think it's time to get some Delrin and have my neighbor make me a new set on his lathe (New OEM bushings are almost $80.00). So far my stabilzer bars are intact .

As far as the cracks I mentioned , the drip rail cracks are only 3/4"(+-) , and the ones at the cargo area pan have NO rust . The truck is 99% rust free , and I take care of it .

I am considering boxing the rear frame rails though . So I guess it's a blessing I'm finding this now instead unitl it was too late .

Thanks for all your help . I'll post what I've found .

Steve "Ozark Hauler"

Aka. "The Desertrat"

 

[Ozark Hauler]

Hey guys an update on the cracked seam sealer .It's turning into a sizeable job . I ground out all the seam sealer from the top side with a 2" wire cup and a 4" angle grinder (advice -use a respirator -save yer lungs !)

Turns out there were holes between the joints large enough to just about fit a pencil in them . Also a tear in the metal on each side was found , I drilled a hole in front of the crack to relieve the stress with a 1/8" drill bit . At the top of the pan before it drops over the edge the factory weld was 2-3" away .The bottom area were all the panels meet were rust free so I dug them out wit a pick to remove the the old sealer . Those joints are now welded all the way down . Came out okay but my mig is on the "Fritz" .

Tomorrow early I'll be out there to sandblast the underside and top side to clean them up for the Epoxy Primer Sealer . Once that is cured I'll do the seam sealer on both sides .

I'm installing new underlay and carpet in the cargo area , cleaning the front carpet/seats . It's been geting a bit "Gamey" smelling from the dogs , engines and trannies that I've hauled the last 3+ years .

As far as the drip railes , that's a whole nother problem . I've got to get my mig fixed . It "strikes like a snake" when I'm welding . I CANNOT FIGURE IT OUT !!!!

It's got to be the wire feed motor or the liner . I just know it pissis' me off with extreme predijuce .The rails are coming apart up in the rail area not underneath , also I'll need to take the topper off as it's going between the topper and the roof corners . Then I'll have to do some repainting and that is a real PITA

Any way that's it for now . I cant take pics my batteries are GMF in my digital camera . They're about 3 years old so the won't hold a charge .

Steve

 

[miesk5]

Steve,

you da man..... You're saving $1000.00's by DIY!

btw, I use Rust Bullet

btw, found out that Summit sells da 1 qt for about @3.00 less than the RB web site!