f-250 bronco

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bobstrat

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ok its not really a bronco, but my buddies got a 96 f-250 4x4 that the right rear brake assy. adjusts itself to the point it just about locks the wheel up. he has to manually adjust the passenger side once a week. it'll trip his abs light but not the brake light. the abs light goes out as soon as he adjusts them. would trying to pull a code from the abs be a waste of time since it seems to be directly related to the wheel locking up? any ideas ?

 

pinson27

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ok its not really a bronco, but my buddies got a 96 f-250 4x4 that the right rear brake assy. adjusts itself to the point it just about locks the wheel up. he has to manually adjust the passenger side once a week. it'll trip his abs light but not the brake light. the abs light goes out as soon as he adjusts them. would trying to pull a code from the abs be a waste of time since it seems to be directly related to the wheel locking up? any ideas ?
I know someone who had a similar problem.All we did was removed the entire rear brake assembly and cleaned it with brake cleaner......FIXED.

 

Roadkill

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I know someone who had a similar problem.All we did was removed the entire rear brake assembly and cleaned it with brake cleaner......FIXED.
That is a good place to start. There is obviously something wrong with the adjuster. If your lucky its just dirty and needs to be cleaned. Put the truck on jackstands and remove both drums. Before you do anything else, carefully compare the good side with the bad one. It's possible that something is not put together right. Then clean everything up real good and see if the problem goes away.

 

roushstang12

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ok its not really a bronco, but my buddies got a 96 f-250 4x4 that the right rear brake assy. adjusts itself to the point it just about locks the wheel up. he has to manually adjust the passenger side once a week. it'll trip his abs light but not the brake light. the abs light goes out as soon as he adjusts them. would trying to pull a code from the abs be a waste of time since it seems to be directly related to the wheel locking up? any ideas ?

I think your buddies truck is a pice of $hit. You should think about droping it off at the junk yard(i mean the shop) and burning it, with all the other junk you pick-up. :ph34r: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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bobstrat

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I think your buddies truck is a pice of $hit. You should think about droping it off at the junk yard(i mean the shop) and burning it, with all the other junk you pick-up. :ph34r: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
hey cmon down if that stang can hold oil long enough to make it and you can see through the smoke. theres always room for one more at a bbq.

 

mbtech2003

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I think your buddies truck is a pice of $hit. You should think about droping it off at the junk yard(i mean the shop) and burning it, with all the other junk you pick-up. :ph34r: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
please keep your rude comments to yourself this is a place of good helpfull information to exchange not smart ass remarks and from someone who has only posted twice and each one is bad <_<

 

Roadkill

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Hey Bobstrat,

Dont let that clown drag you to his level. This forum is about sharing ideas and information. It's called Broncozone, but the guys here will try to help you with anything. They even helped a guy fix a (gag) Jeep a few weeks ago. If were lucky, a moderator will just boot that guy and be done with it. Good luck with the F250.

 

Yardape

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Ditto, just another trouble maker. Hopefully he'll be dumb and bash heads with a mod and get booted

 

miesk5

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He can ck for the 4wABS Codes;

4WABS System Component Locations, DTCs & Test Connector Diagram

Source: by Steve83

Some other possible causes for rear whell lock;

Wheels Lock Up, ABS Warning Lamp On, No Code

Possible Source(s):

Hydraulic outlet (dump) valve.

Damp or contaminated rear brake shoe linings, stuck/leaking wheel cylinder, overadjusted rear brakes.

Hung-up parking brake.

Leaking rear axle seal

Adjustment by Chilton via AutoZone

Parking brake Adjustment by Chilton via AZ

and a tip by;

GIJoeCam

"If you pull the drum off and look at Ford rear drums, and watch the geometry when you apply the brakes, here's what you'll find.

When you step on the pedal, the cylinder pushes out the plungers, which, in turn push out on the shoes. Now, assuming the arc of the shoe matches the arc of the drum, and you have full contact, when you release the brakes, the shoes will slide evenly away from the drum. Now, as the shoes move in and out, the piece of the shoe that the cable is wrapped around going to the adjusting lever pulls the cable a little bit. Now, as the shoe wears over time, the shoes move out a little bit farther, pulling the cable a little bit farther. When the shoes finally pull the cable far enough to pull the lever up far enough, the lever catches the next notch on the adjusting ***** and adjusts it out one notch. That's what makes drum brakes self-adjusting. I always used a bit of anti-sieze (just a BIT) to keep them moving free..., and never had a problem in 134,000 miles. (Replaced them once around 55k because they came with the spring kit. Nothing was wrong with the original ones) Contrart yo popular belief, on most rear drums, using the e-brake doesn't help adjust them. Braking in reverse sometimes does (depending on the design) because it causes the brakes to shift around the other way, and depending on the design, might pull on the adjusting lever cable a little bit farther. Either way, if the adjusting ***** is siezed, it's not going to work.

Sorry for the length....

-Joe-

Now, as for the initial adjustment, just like they said above... I would run the adjuster in until the brake drum would slide over the shoes, and then adjust the wheel out through the hole in the backing plate just far enough that there was just a slight bit of drag, and then back them off about 1/4 turn. Always seemed to work just fine."

Also by Chilton in case your pal has had a brake job back there before this occurred;

"Apply Lubriplate

 

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