He can ck for the 4wABS Codes;
4WABS System Component Locations, DTCs & Test Connector Diagram
Source: by Steve83
Some other possible causes for rear whell lock;
Wheels Lock Up, ABS Warning Lamp On, No Code
Possible Source(s):
Hydraulic outlet (dump) valve.
Damp or contaminated rear brake shoe linings, stuck/leaking wheel cylinder, overadjusted rear brakes.
Hung-up parking brake.
Leaking rear axle seal
Adjustment by Chilton via AutoZone
Parking brake Adjustment by Chilton via AZ
and a tip by;
GIJoeCam
"If you pull the drum off and look at Ford rear drums, and watch the geometry when you apply the brakes, here's what you'll find.
When you step on the pedal, the cylinder pushes out the plungers, which, in turn push out on the shoes. Now, assuming the arc of the shoe matches the arc of the drum, and you have full contact, when you release the brakes, the shoes will slide evenly away from the drum. Now, as the shoes move in and out, the piece of the shoe that the cable is wrapped around going to the adjusting lever pulls the cable a little bit. Now, as the shoe wears over time, the shoes move out a little bit farther, pulling the cable a little bit farther. When the shoes finally pull the cable far enough to pull the lever up far enough, the lever catches the next notch on the adjusting ***** and adjusts it out one notch. That's what makes drum brakes self-adjusting. I always used a bit of
anti-sieze (just a BIT) to keep them moving free..., and never had a problem in 134,000 miles. (Replaced them once around 55k because they came with the spring kit. Nothing was wrong with the original ones) Contrart yo popular belief, on most rear drums, using the e-brake doesn't help adjust them. Braking in reverse sometimes does (depending on the design) because it causes the brakes to shift around the other way, and depending on the design, might pull on the adjusting lever cable a little bit farther. Either way, if the adjusting ***** is siezed, it's not going to work.
Sorry for the length....
-Joe-
Now, as for the initial adjustment, just like they said above... I would run the adjuster in until the brake drum would slide over the shoes, and then adjust the wheel out through the hole in the backing plate just far enough that there was just a slight bit of drag, and then back them off about 1/4 turn. Always seemed to work just fine."
Also by Chilton in case your pal has had a brake job back there before this occurred;
"Apply Lubriplate