Engine won't start and run

[davidmcg]

I have a mess. My 88 Bronco Full size with a 5.8L won't start and stay running. It will crank over most of the time, but when the key is released back to the ignition position from start it dies. In the last 3 months I have changed plugs, wires, rotor and cap and fuel filter. After all that it ran fine, then one day on highway it just died. It wouldn't crank over or anything. Since this erupted I have replaced the MAP sensor, the battery, the ignition switch and the solenoid. Winter is coming and since I live in a rural area with a 33 mile commute I need the 4X4 on the road and running.

 

[WileE7]

I have a mess. My 88 Bronco Full size with a 5.8L won't start and stay running. It will crank over most of the time, but when the key is released back to the ignition position from start it dies. In the last 3 months I have changed plugs, wires, rotor and cap and fuel filter. After all that it ran fine, then one day on highway it just died. It wouldn't crank over or anything. Since this erupted I have replaced the MAP sensor, the battery, the ignition switch and the solenoid. Winter is coming and since I live in a rural area with a 33 mile commute I need the 4X4 on the road and running.

I had a similar problem with my bronco it would take forever to start i used starter fluid to get it started and sometimes that didnt work it would want to stop whiile i was driving down the street and if i came to a complete stop it occasionnaly died to make a long story short a guy at a junk yard checked my feul pressure and i was getting enough fuel to get it going so i had to change the fuel pump in the tank and its been running great ever since you should have your pressure checked before you buy a new pump

 

[Seabronc]

From what you describe, I'd guess that there is a problem with the TFI module at the distributor.

Good luck,

>-

 

[davidmcg]

I have a mess. My 88 Bronco Full size with a 5.8L won't start and stay running. It will crank over most of the time, but when the key is released back to the ignition position from start it dies. In the last 3 months I have changed plugs, wires, rotor and cap and fuel filter. After all that it ran fine, then one day on highway it just died. It wouldn't crank over or anything. Since this erupted I have replaced the MAP sensor, the battery, the ignition switch and the solenoid. Winter is coming and since I live in a rural area with a 33 mile commute I need the 4X4 on the road and running.

Ok, I am going to go cheap and replace the ignition module first. If that doesn't work I'll get the zip saw out and cut the tank mount bolts off and replace the pump/sending unit assembly. If that doesn't work, well................

davidmcg

 

[Seabronc]

If that doesn't work, well................
davidmcg

It could be fuel starvation, but try the TFI first. Also, you have two fuel pumps, a low pressure one in the tank and a high pressure one on the frame rail just about under the driver seat.

Good luck,

>-

 

[davidmcg]

It could be fuel starvation, but try the TFI first. Also, you have two fuel pumps, a low pressure one in the tank and a high pressure one on the frame rail just about under the driver seat.
Good luck,

>-

Well I just got home from Advanced Auto Parts with the module and cracked my manual back out. I was under the impression that you could simply unplug the old module and plug the new one. But no, you get to pull the distributor and unplug it and out the new one. i only have about 30 minutes of daylight left, so the cautious side of me tells me to wait until morning. I have not the best track record of pulling distributors and then realigning that oil pump shaft without dropping it into the oilpan. If this doesn't sure the problem I'll go after the in-tank pump/sending unit first. If that doesn't do it I'll go after the frame mounted pump. If nothing else, after this thing does start again it should run better than ever.

davidmcg

 

[LOSTinthewoods]

Have tried checking the fuel pump relays that in my experience ALWAYS causes that problem. In my 92 e250, my 90 e250 and in my 88 bronco. They are those little 1 inch by 1inch by 1 inch square things with wires going to them attached to a bracket on your drivers fender just in front of the master cylinder. Poke around in there with a test light with the key off first then with the key on sea if the other wires light up when the key is on if so you ruled those out if not get new relays. Those stupid things illuded me for months once. I actually had to take my van to the shop. Being my dad is a fleet mechanic and he was even baffled.So before you rip out the distributer check those first I'm willing to bet thats your problem.

 

[miesk5]

yo D; try a Self Test for Codes;

Self Test & Connector Location & pics, Bronco & Ford BEST PROCESS WITH DIAGRAMS! Source: by Ryan M

"Don

 

[davidmcg]

OK, in-tank fuel pump replaced and now it won't even begin to fire. I guess I'll try to run the jumper wires and read the codes with my digital volt meter. Anybody done this with a digital vohm-meter? I am guessing that I set the continuity to 20K but not sure.

 

[Seabronc]

OK, in-tank fuel pump replaced and now it won't even begin to fire. I guess I'll try to run the jumper wires and read the codes with my digital volt meter. Anybody done this with a digital vohm-meter? I am guessing that I set the continuity to 20K but not sure.

Did you check the TFI or the High pressure fuel pump on the frame rail? Have you made sure you have 12V to the pumpS ? If you have 12V at the pumps did you check the ground for the pumps? Do you hear them running?

>-

 

[davidmcg]

Did you check the TFI or the High pressure fuel pump on the frame rail? Have you made sure you have 12V to the pumpS ? If you have 12V at the pumps did you check the ground for the pumps? Do you hear them running? >-

No I haven't checked the high pressure or the ground. But, after cranking for a couple of seconds the odor of gasoline coming from the exhaust pipe is very strong. Heres another thing, I don't know how familiar you are about putting jumper wires to ge trouble codes but I have a problem with that. I hooked it up as a post here stated it and I get nothing. I mean the volt meter never changes from 1 or flickers or anything. This is a mess. The truck wants to start but won't even fire. I pulled the number one plug wire and it is getting spark. If only I could get the trouble codes I might be able to quit guessing. I just don't think I am doing it right.

davidmcg

 

[2NDTOUR89]

I would recommend going to your local parts house and getting a code reader, they are not too expensive and might save you time and money in getting your ride fixed in the long run. I did not have one until my 89 started having issues and I threw about $300 at it before I broke down and bought the tester, then I spent the $25 or so and put in the TPS that fixed the issues I was having... I wish I had bought it earlier....

Good luck.

 

[davidmcg]

Did you check the TFI or the High pressure fuel pump on the frame rail? Have you made sure you have 12V to the pumpS ? If you have 12V at the pumps did you check the ground for the pumps? Do you hear them running? >-

Well there is the interesting point. When I got back and worked on it today. I couldn't hear the pumps engaging. SO I went up and shot some starter fluid in and the thing turned over and ran for about 5 seconds, the starter fluid all burned up. So I went and took the fuel line off the filter and got good old gas in the face. So since it had fuel there I surmised the pumps must be working. Went up to the injector rail and took the bleeder valve out and tried again but got got zero fuel. A few cranks later and a recharge of the battery and I got fuel and the pumps are making noise. But it still won't turn over and run. I even pulled the plugs and checked and cleaned all of them. This is frustrating. I need to go get a code reader and try to figure out just what that code(s) means.

davidmcg

 

[davidmcg]

I would recommend going to your local parts house and getting a code reader, they are not too expensive and might save you time and money in getting your ride fixed in the long run. I did not have one until my 89 started having issues and I threw about $300 at it before I broke down and bought the tester, then I spent the $25 or so and put in the TPS that fixed the issues I was having... I wish I had bought it earlier....Good luck.

Would the Throttle Position Sensor keep it from starting? I just thought the TPS would make it idle rough which it was doing before all this happened. Sometimes it would even stall and I would have to restart it. The rpm gauge while the engine was cold was all over the place between 250 and 700.

 

[Seabronc]

So I went and took the fuel line off the filter and got good old gas in the face. So since it had fuel there I surmised the pumps must be working. Went up to the injector rail and took the bleeder valve out and tried again but got got zero fuel. davidmcg

Fuel in to filter and no fuel out of the injectors, plugged filter or injector control.

>-

 

[2NDTOUR89]

Would the Throttle Position Sensor keep it from starting? I just thought the TPS would make it idle rough which it was doing before all this happened. Sometimes it would even stall and I would have to restart it. The rpm gauge while the engine was cold was all over the place between 250 and 700.

Yes, that is exactly what mine did. Mine would surge even when the motor was warm as well but it got to the point where the motor would not start at all without starting fluid, then run extremely rich, surge then die.

 

[davidmcg]

Would the Throttle Position Sensor keep it from starting? I just thought the TPS would make it idle rough which it was doing before all this happened. Sometimes it would even stall and I would have to restart it. The rpm gauge while the engine was cold was all over the place between 250 and 700.
Yes, that is exactly what mine did. Mine would surge even when the motor was warm as well but it got to the point where the motor would not start at all without starting fluid, then run extremely rich, surge then die.

OK, then how difficult it it to replace the TPS? I am doing all of this without a decent manual. The one I have is very vague. A TPS is cheap, only about $30 about the same as a code reader. I tell you, if I ever get this thing running you will have an invite to drive to east Kansas and fish in m pond. I just have to get this machine back running.

 

[2NDTOUR89]

Its actually pretty easy, you have to pull the throttle body off so make sure you get a new gasket, then once it is off, just turn i over, remove the screws and replace. They are not adjustable from what I remember so it is just a straight r and r. Best of luck to you, I know mine stumped me until I finally figured it out. It was the whole reason the Bronco sat for 4 years before I finally got it back on the road...

 

[davidmcg]

Its actually pretty easy, you have to pull the throttle body off so make sure you get a new gasket, then once it is off, just turn i over, remove the screws and replace. They are not adjustable from what I remember so it is just a straight r and r. Best of luck to you, I know mine stumped me until I finally figured it out. It was the whole reason the Bronco sat for 4 years before I finally got it back on the road...

Alrighty then, I guess I shall run to the auto parts store and go ahead and get the TPS and a gasket. I just went out and took a look at the block before I checked your post and thought I might have to take the throttle body off. I hope this is the cure. If not I'll just go back and buy a code reader and go from there. My wife wouldn't let the Bronco sit for 4 years. Already have a Jeep that has been setting for 18 months because it needs a new engine.