yo
Bronco Driver,
As BOB Advised, Research - at swapping in the I6, at
fordsix.com
Here is some info for now;
Brad wrote; Click on Brad wote to view the site;
here are excerpts less the pics.
started collecting parts to swap the 5.0 with an inline six. I've always liked the six, it's simplicity, reliability and torque. And, if it picks up a little extra MPG's, that's a win too!
This weekend, I started the
engine
swap. BTW, this is the first time I've ever replaced an engine, but I've been reading articles on this forum and others, and believe that I am as prepared as I can be.
I've taken some pictures along the way to document what I did and will point out any particular areas of difficulty if someone else attempts this swap.
Getting Started:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7372/8992144511_1e5b1568c9_c.jpg
"...started at about 1pm Saturday and reached this point by about 6pm. Ready to separate the engine from the transmission...about to hit a major roadblock!
HINT: It is CRITICAL to know the number of bolts that attach the engine and transmission! Some are hard to see and if you don't get them all, you will waste a LOT of time and effort!
The Ford 5.0 has 6 bolts that connect the engine and transmission.
There are also 4 nuts that attach the
flexplate to the torque converter. You simply remove the inspection plate on the transmission, and remove the nuts one at a time. You or someone, will have to rotate the engine so that you can access all four.
Once all nuts and bolts have been removed, I lifted the engine so that the
engine mounts were clear of the frame. I then put a 2x4 under the transmission and lifted it with a hydraulic lift and heard a distinct "pop" as the engine and transmission separated.
I then started to raise the engine and move it forward to clear the hood and radiator support. This is the exciting part!it is a vacuum advance distributor...I have the
Offenhauser intake and the efi dual
exhaust manifolds. Going to use the
Edelbrock 500 4 barrel.
I'm pretty excited about it. I've used Edelbrock's before and have had great experiences with them...set and forget.
I may ultimately go to a throttle body efi setup at some point...or I may not. I'll drive it with the carb for awhile and see how it goes.
First, I removed the old perches (302) and installed the new perches(I6). Took a little longer that I thought it would, but it's done!
RANT...Why would someone design perches that have 4 bolts on 1 perch (easy to remove) and 2 bolts and 4 HD rivets on the other??? Why the rivets? Just to make some engineer laugh is what I'm thinking.
Anyway the old perches are gone and the new perches are in.
Next, I mounted my
Fuel Pressure Regulator on the firewall where it will be out of the way, but yet accessible (that's the play anyway). It's an aeromotive 13301, an adjustable, universal, carb/EFI FPR. It come with 2 springs, one for fuel pressure from 3-20 lbs and the other for 20-60 lbs. It is made for a return line and also has a boost reference port just in case you ever want to run some boost! It was a little pricey..about $130, but this thing is a piece of artwork! The reviews on it are very good, so I think it was the perfect choice for now and for future upgrades.
Here's a link for anyone interested:
http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...ass-regulator/
The I6 block is an 89 block(EFI) and the mechanical fuel boss is filled in. I am planning on using the stock fuel pump, but dropping the pressure to 3-4 lbs and sending the rest back through the return.
I'm doing it this way for several reasons...
1. The
stock fuel pump will be more than adequate for the carb
2. If I do switch back to EFI at some point, the
stock fuel pump will still be fine
3. The FPR is boost referenced, so if I do a turbo, the FPR will match the fuel pressure with the boost.
A little more expense and setup up front, but I am set for the future regardless of how I go.
The
stand alone controller is a done deal, I already purchased it...it was the most expensive piece of the entire project so far...but now I have a programmable transmission controller that I can program my shift points with and it stores 2 setups...a highway and a towing setup for example. I thought long and hard about the controller; or swapping to a c6 or aod or a zf5, but in the end, except for going stock efi, this was the cheapest way to go and I have better control of the transmission now.
If I go efi, I want to be able to control/program it. I know I can do it with the stock efi unit, but that has it's own learning curve and I need to get this up and going as quickly as possible.
So, for now, I have a plan and am working the plan. I am confident that I can make what I have work well and perhaps improve it in the future with efi.
I thought the installation of the I6 would take about 30 minutes tonight, and it took right at 3 hours.
Although the I6 is narrower than the 5.0, it is a little longer which provides it's own challenges getting it in the engine bay.
Tip: When installing the engine to the engine mounts, loosen them up so that they have a little play in them. That makes it easier to move them and line them up with the engine mounts.
Do this the first time and you won't have to loosen them after tightening them down
Interesting tidbit about these
engine mounts...the original mounts have a tab on the top and the bottom...1 is about an inch away from the stud, and the other is about a half inch from the stud. This makes them interchangeable. The mounts in the picture have 1 tab that is about an inch from the stud(it is to the right of the stud in the picture)...so it fits perfectly on one side, but not on the other. I double and triple checked and there wasn't another part number for a left and a right...the 2698 says it for both left and right, 4WD. So, to make one of them work, I drilled a hole in the engine perch a little further out so that it would fit. Kinda strange that the mfg. of the mount hasn't caught this, but it was a fairly easy work around..."
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muscletruck7379 did a similar swap; but w/Less Details
He wrote; "...my bronco is in the middle of a 302 to 300 swap. I probably wouldn't trade a good running 302 for a six. but since i got mine back with blown engine and torn up front clip, its wasn't that big of a deal. mine is getting a megasquirt II controller and a dual range aux tranny so i can keep it running in the sweet spot. it's not meant to be fast, just reliable and efficient. plus its easier to work on and looks sharp for not even being complete yet.
the bell housings are the same between the 302 and 300, but you need to use the 300 specific
flywheel because the balance is different.
radiator in/out is different, see
motor mount pic below..."
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b159/mattbox87/automotive/IMG00284-20100916-1644.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b159/mattbox87/automotive/DSC00144.jpg
Dr D wrote in same thread; "...mounts bolt on/off I got my set from LMC. I went with DUI/Holley so no computer for me. The dash unit works with out changes. In fact, this was a simple swap with the hardest part getting the long I6 nestled down into place. Clifford and Classic Inlines have performance parts for the 300. I got my build from the fordsix forum and am very happy with it."
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> thank you
