Disk Brakes on rear?

[BLADE262US]

Well cjbronco everyone is entitled to there opinion , Have you ever driven a vehicle with rear disk ? For those still wanting all the benefits of rear disk but dont have the $800 to $1000 to pay for a kit or the fabrication skills required to do it really cheap heres the very best option I have found I was looking back through a bunch of old links I had when I was researching rear disk before I decided to build my own and I think this is the absolute best for the money its the brackets ( bolt on ) hardware and rotors for $289.95 The price for the calipers seems a bit high but they tell you what vehicle they came off so it wont be hard to compare prices at the local parts store . So here it is cheaper than a hydroboost /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />http://www.tsmmfg.com/2530.htm

 

[Seabronc]

Well cjbronco everyone is entitled to there opinion , Have you ever driven a vehicle with rear disk ?  For those still wanting all the benefits of rear disk but dont have the $800 to $1000 to pay for a kit or the fabrication skills required to do it really cheap heres the very best option I have found I was looking back through a bunch of old links I had when I was researching rear disk before I decided to build my own and I think this is the absolute best for the money its the brackets ( bolt on ) hardware and rotors for $289.95 The price for the calipers seems a bit high but they tell you what vehicle they came off so it wont be hard to compare prices at the local parts store . So here it is cheaper than a hydroboost  /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />http://www.tsmmfg.com/2530.htm

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Great link Blade!

>-

 

[brian_n_texas]

This IS a good deal, Blade. I have been searching around for different conversion kits, you save me some time!

As for this topic - You can never get enough brakes. I plan on converting to rear disc, installing front slotted rotors, ceramic pads, new master cylinder and booster and whatever else is available as an upgrade. There's a lot of technology in brake systems that was not available 10/15 years ago, and Big Broncos are Heavy Broncos, the brakes need all the help they can get.

Two major justifications for rear disc conversion: 1. Lack of rear fade especially when going on long, steep downhill trails (or highways). 2. Lack of fade after getting wet, like after water crossings or backing a boat into the water.

Just my 2 cents

BNT

 

[cjbronco]

Did you replace the proportioning valve? Dont forget, its set up for a front disc and rear drum setup.

 

[BLADE262US]

OK I didnt think this would be that hard of a concept to grasp . #1 there is no way physically or mathmatically with the given bore sizes and incoming pressure that a drum brake setup will have more clamping force than a disk brake setup just plain and simple isnt going to happen no matter what the sales man told you . #2 if drums were so far superior to disk why are the auto manufactures phasing them out . #3 Disk are cheaper to replace than drums in most all cases . #4 There is just no way that drum brakes can dissipate the heat build up faster than disk brakes , Heat is what causes brake fade and drums are without a doubt inferior by design. As for the proportion valve got a news flash for ya I know for sure that my 89 and 92 dont have one thats right they dont have one and Im almost 100% sure that anything with antilock brakes will not have one . Just went out to verify this on the 92 Im scrapping out and the front line comes right from the master cylinder down to the drivers side wheel and into the rubber hose then comes from the other side of the rubber hose T and goes to the other side . The rear line goes from the master cylinder to the ABS pump and then to the back wheels . My 89 is the same way . The 89 is the one I did the conversion on and all I did was weld the bracket mounts on and bolt everything on didnt have to mess with anything as the master cylinder has a bore of 1 and 1/16and Im sure if you look on the side of an 87 up master cylinder it will have the bore size cast into it and it is 1 1/16 . The older ones are 7/8 I believe and may not have enough volumn for the calipers so if anyone does do this conversion on an older one you may have to change the master cylinder to an 87 up one . If there is any kind of proportion valve action taking place here they are somehow doing it in the master cylinder . And unlike a salesman I actually drove this vehicle before and after so I can tell you first hand that there is a **** of an improvement . Brakes are one of those things that fall into the laws of physics A given pressure exerted on a given surface area will produce a shit load of force ( lol ) See if you can figure this out if you take 1000 psi ( brake line pressure ) and put it to a 2 inch diameter piston ( rough idea of caliper piston diameter ) how much force is exerted ?? then try it for a 5/8 or even 7/8 bore ( diameter of drum brake cylinder ) , Which do you think will hang on better . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> If you want pics of the brake line routing on the 92 let meknow its all open and untouched from the factory .

 

[snowman74]

Man, it sounds like I've started WWIII here with the disk brake question!

Okay, let me throw this out and let you all chew on it a bit...

How about I change out my 8.8 rearend to a 9 with rotor capability? I'm not sure what my gearing is, but it is a 4spd manual (granny for towing) and a 302. What would you all recommend?

If I went to a Dana, and wanted to still be able to tow, what gear ratio should I have to stay within without having to deal with the tranny and/or drive shaft, etc.?

I appreciate the website Blade...it was informative. Although, you do still have to buy some additional parts not included in the kit.

What do you think about rubber vs. stainless steel brake lines?

And I guess my final question is this: Say I do a brake modification either through a kit, or a new rear-end...am I going to have to replace or modify the stock master cylinder?

Thanks ya'll,

Jim >-

 

[Seabronc]

How about I change out my 8.8 rearend to a 9 with rotor capability? I'm not sure what my gearing is, but it is a 4spd manual (granny for towing) and a 302. What would you all recommend?If I went to a Dana, and wanted to still be able to tow, what gear ratio should I have to stay within without having to deal with the tranny and/or drive shaft, etc.?

What do you think about rubber vs. stainless steel brake lines?

And I guess my final question is this: Say I do a brake modification either through a kit, or a new rear-end...am I going to have to replace or modify the stock master cylinder?

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Gearing is some what a personal choice item based on how you operate the truck, like highway cruise speed, off road usage, towing, tire size, etc. For towing you probably want to stay within the mid to higher RPM range. The Ford engines are designed to cruise in the 2000 - 3000 RPM range. If you down load the 80 and up catalog from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard http://www.broncograveyard.com , they have some great information on helping you select gears on page 42. Just keep in mind that the chart is clibrated at a 55 MPHG cruise. So if you cruise at 65 you need to do your own calculations which are easy since they also give you the formula for doing it, simple multiply and divide using your favorite calculator :-B .

You can find the gear code on the pumpkin tag or on the Safety Compliance sticker located on the driver side rear door post. It will have an axle code like 19 = Ford 3.55 or H9 = Ford limited slip 3.55. If the new rear end is different than the one on your truck you need to change the gears in the front to match or you will get a nasty surprise when going into 4WD [-X :blush: .

I believe your speed sensor is on the transfer case tail so you shouldn't have any issues there B) .

As far as the master cylinder, if what Blade says is true for your truck the existing master cylinder should work .

With brake lines I'd put in stainless if I were upgrading. You also need to have a flexable section between the caliper and the stainless lines since the calipers move when you break and also as the pads wear.

Good luck,

>-

 

[BLADE262US]

Hello I would definately do the stainless steel lines pretty much any line set for the front will work on the back once you do the conversion . And yes your master cylinder should be just fine . And sorry to everyone if I seemed a bit edgy about the whole thing LOL maybe works getting too me ( automotive suplier field ) But it just comes down to the math , Any other questions Ill be happy to answer , That site is very good for there prices though especially coming with rotors I think they are useing very early lincoln rotors or atleast the specs from them . The early lincolns had a 9 inch with disk brakes , As for the calipers from the company I would check the local parts store before buying should be cheaper there and I guess the parking brake will probably stir up more opinions but in my case I never ever used the ones for the drums so paying a bunch more to have them in the capliers seemed a waste to me . Downfall to this is IF I ever were safety inspected I would fail on that point because it is on the list of requirments and you would even if you were running a line lock because it states that it must be a mechanical connection . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[cjbronco]

Blade, I didnt think that you would grasp this concept, but I figured that would happen. Now, this is a pretty basic questions I have for you here so you should be able to figure this one out ok, here it goes..... Which set of brakes has the most stopping power, your front or rear? Now after you look up that one, I Have a 82' and forgot that after 86' there was not a proportioning valve. Now, my big question for you is, where do you get your brake parts from b/c if you can find me disc rotors,pads calipers an everything else CHEAPER than drums, then you are the man ) . But last time I checked, drums were still cheaper. In my case the hydroboost was more superior than putting rear disc's on. But if your looking for a kit for you 8.8, ford racing has a rear disc brake kit for their 9's and 8.8's for like $350 minus calipers i think? Good luck reguardless of what you get out of us arguing about. Im out

 

[Seabronc]

OK guys, this is becomming personal :glare: . Better, is in the mind of the user :-" . Let's not start WWIII over it :huh: .

Good luck,

>-

 

[snowman74]

Alright...I started this and now I'm gonna end it. You have all been very helpful in answering my question...both sides of the issue.

I am certain we could go back and forth from now on like some people do about Ford and...dare I even mention it...chevy (notice I didn't capitalize it!).

I hope nobody is really upset with one another over this. Thanks again for your help and the warm welcome to the Zone. Nudge! >-

 

[live_wire_318]

i would say just disable the rear antilock, that worked very well for me. but if your dead set in doing this it wont be easy about two days work.