Disk Brakes on rear?

[snowman74]

Hey everyone. I'm new here, so bear with me. I have an 87' full size 4wd Bronco with 302 and 4 speed standard. I'm wanting to get rid of the drums on the back and put disk brakes on. Need input as to how, and is this a good idea? Thanks.

 

[TX_BEAST]

company called stainless steel brakes

 

[Seabronc]

company called stainless steel brakes

27316[/snapback]

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As of last week they did not have a kit for a Bronco yet. However, it wouldn't hurt to call them and see if they plan on it. Maybe if they get a few calls they will start working on one. Not cheap.

Their url is http://www.ssbrakes.com Phone 800-448-7722

Jeff's Bronco Grave yard sells a conversion kit, but you still have to get some components from a GM. See page 61 of their 80 and up catalog http://www.broncograveyard.com phone 248-437-5060.

Good luck,

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Just for grabs, a picture of a 36 Ford Coup at the East Coast Nationals last weekend.

 

[ocalabronco]

wouldnt be too hard. if they make a disc kit for 9", i'm sure somebody makes one for 8.8's. and if not, the 9" kit wouldnt be too hard to adapt to the 8.8

 

[BLADE262US]

I made the setup on my 89 useing 79 F150 front caliper mounts and calipers I have to replace an axle seal soon so I will take some pics they work excellant and didnt hardly cost anything . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[cjbronco]

DONT DO IT!!! Talk to pauk at hydratech. Its a hydroboost system for our BKO'S. Dont waste the money on the dics concer. I looked into it, and het this instead and im so happy. It would've been like $1800 in p[arts if i did both and im much more happy w/my hydroboost system

 

[ocalabronco]

but did you actually RUN discs in the back? or just read and decide not to? regardless, discs would be better than drums, and if you know how to hunt junkyards and fabricate a little, it would certainly not cost 1800 bucks

 

[BLADE262US]

LOL yeah I agree totally I have no where near $1800 into my rear disk brakes **** I dont think I even have $100 into them I already had the brackets . As for that hydroboost thing Im telin ya a salesman is going to tell you whatever it takes to get your money, The simple fact is that if it raises line pressures which makes the wheel cylinders push harder on the shoes which push harder on the drums to increase the stopping power where does all this extra heat go that is built up from the extra force ? Drum brakes just flat out do not cool down as quick as disk there closed up and hold the heat and when they get hot like that you experience brake fade . If drums were in any way superior to disk then wouldnt you see indy cars with 4 wheel drum ? mustang cobras with 4 wheel drum ? Chevy corvettes with 4 wheel drum ? Not goona happen besides if you know anything about hydraulics and how to figure the force of a cylinder youd know that there absolutely no way in **** that a wheel cylinder with a 3/4 inch bore and lets say 1000 psi pushing it is going to come anywhere near the clamping force generated by a 2.5 inch diameter caliper piston with 1000 psi behind it just flat out isnt going to happen . Then after all that theres the heat issue . Spend your money how you want but for $1800 you could buy a welder,4X8 sheet of 1/4 plate,set of torches,and a set of junkyard brackets and still have money left then you could make a bunch of the brackets you designed and make your money back selling them and still have far superior brakes and a bunch of fabrication tools for the next job . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[snowman74]

I really appreciate everybody's input. I know many people switch to disks. I know they are superior in many ways to the drum brakes. Besides, replacing shoes in a drum almost requires a degree in quantum physics...at least, I'm not very good at it.

So, according to you all, I have an 8.8 rear-end...it's stock, so would it be a DANA? Who makes it? How do I tell? Also, one other obstacle in this process is I have ANTI-LOCK rear drums. Now, I know that's not anything like the ABS systems of today...but will I have to make any mod's to the system because of this? After adding rear disks will I have to change: 1. Brake lines, 2. Master cylinder and pressure equalizer, etc.? What about electronic sensors/senders? 3. Should I stick with the same size rim and bolt pattern, or should I go up to a 16" with a six lug pattern? Another couple of questions and I'll get off here for the night: What do you all think about cross-drilled and/or vented disks? What about Ceramic pads, or any of the other new pads they've got out there?

I'm also trying to ascertain if it would be easier to yank the rear-end out of another Ford (though I don't know which model I could use) with the proper differential and disk brakes.

You guys are great! I understand the mechanic...and I'm always about "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" but this is something I've been thinking about for a while. I just don't know anything about rear-end sizes, I know a very little about gear ratios...just need some expert advice...and I welcome advice from both points of view.

 

[BLADE262US]

The 8.8 is all ford its there design , Your rear wheel antilock is standard on most everything from 87 up . There is no sensors out at the drums its in the differential housing right on top so you dont have to worry about that . When I did my 89 I didnt have to mess with a proportion valve or change anything just built the brackets, hooked the lines up and was good to go . Keep the same bolt pattern 6 bolt is for chevy ( lol ) The rear end out of a superduty would be ideal has disk brakes and some are dana 60 or 80 very very strong but there 8 luggers so youd have to run mismatch rims or there are ways to convert the front to 8 lug too . Wount be hard to build brackets for your 8.8 though . One question how much fabrication experience do you have ? /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[cowboydan]

my buddy 79bigbrono a 79 broco and was concidering the disc conversion. but the money and time to convert was more than it was worth, so we converted the booster to a hydroboost system out of big lincon. some fab was required but over all, very easy. do remember that the rear brakes only do 30% of the braking at best. my 2 cents says that the rear disc conversion is a waste of time and $$$. i would rather upgrade to power stop pads for the front and the hydroboost. you won't strop better with rear discs.... especially when under emergency stops all the weight gets thrown forward onto the front brakes.

 

[bluesman17]

that 30 percent is still 30 percent and if your sliding i want all the stopping power i can get. brake fade is notorious on drums thats why theyve been pretty much phased out, all the benefits out weigh the use of drums. if the hydraboost thing is so great they would have put those on instead of discs. anybody willing to do some fabbing will come out cheaper just doing the conversion. junkyard parts maybe a rotor and a set of pads. also if you nose dive that bad in an emergency stop you may want to invest in some shocks.

 

[snowman74]

Well It appears I have stirred up an issue that has proponents and oponents. But it appears to me more people have been on the side of putting disks on the rear. I really appreciate all the information I can get. Thank you ALL.

Dear BLADE2622US,

I don't have a whole lot of fab exp. However, I am close friends with a couple of guys who are probably two of the best in the world at fab. and fab. design. To be honest, I've run this by them and they both suggested kits. Of course, I asked them while we were all together and to be honest, I think they're just trying to avoid the work LOL!

I'd really appreciate those pics when you take em' I'm going to try to take a couple of pics of my Bronco this weekend and put em' on here.

Dear Bluesman17,

Thank you for your input as well.

Dear COWBOYDAN and CJBRONCO,

Please keep providing info...I'm really trying to weigh the pros and cons. I appreciate you all.

Dear SEABRONC and OCALABRONC,

Thank you for your input as well...and to anybody I missed! I appreciate it all!

But again, what do ya'll think about cross drilled and or vented disk brakes for a Bronco? What about the new Ceramic pads or others? Is this stuff worth the money, or is it just for race cars? What I'm wanting is the most efficient braking possible. I travel highways A LOT and I want heat dissipation, and SURE braking power under all conditions. Being able to stop a vehicle at the right times is more important than being able to make it go faster as far as I'm concerned.

I'll let you all battle it out...I'm listening! Thanks again! >-

 

[bluesman17]

The more cooling the better, youre trying to stop a 5000 + lb vehicle. Id get some cross drilled ones if you are really worried about it. Dont have any experience with cereamic pads though. Good luck >-

 

[mbtech2003]

i put ebc rotors on the front of my bronco and love them i still have the stock rear drums in the back. my 2 cents is leave the drums alone and upgrade your fronts where most on the stoping is done.

u can order the brakes from

http://www.tirerack.com/ (thats where i got mine)

but DO NOT USE THE EBC PADS they make a lot of noise i'm useing ford pads from the dealership and i have no noise what so ever and no brake fade even hard stops from 70 mph

but to each his own and hopefully u choose a path that sutes your needs.

>-

 

[BLADE262US]

Heres how I did my rear brakes . I took the 79 caliper mounts from a front dana 44 laid them on a piece of 1/4 inch plate and traced out the center mounting circle ,and the bolt holes were marked and drilled , then cut them out with a plasma cutter inside and out so I had a circle with a hole in the inside that hole is the diameter of the axle tube I then cut one side of the circle fully and 3/4 of the way through the other side so I could open it up and get it around the axle tube. I then went and got brand new calipers and rotors and pads , I had to turn the axle ****** down a little bit so that it would fit inside the rotor but didnt have to take much off I could have turned some out of the rotor but figured if I took it off the axle I wouldnt have to machine anything to replace the brakes later it would be off the shelf parts where now unless I break an axle I dont have to worry about it anyway and Ive never had that happen. So now I cleaned the axle very good so it was bare metal then I put my ring on it and bolted the caliper mount to the ring then installed the axle / rotor and caliper/brake pads so everything was sitting just as it would in the end . I then tack welded the ring in place making sure it stayed square with the axle tube ( very important ) . I also made brackets that I welded on for the brake lines I used braided stainless front lines for the back worked great and then ran steel lines fron these ones to the braided stainless drop line . Once everything was tacked in place I disasembled everything and welded the ring in place fully both sides , Then I powder coated the axle and did the final assembly ( gears/axles/seals/Diff/brakes/ . I didnt have to mess with a proportion valve or anything and the stock bronco master cylinder has like a 1 and 1/16 bore so its plenty big enough volume wise for the new calipers . But to each his own .

 

[Seabronc]

Heres how I did my rear brakes 

Nice looking job Blade. I have considered the conversion and still intend to do it. My reasoning is that I can't keep the drums in adjustment unless I manually adjust them. The result of so little breaking on the rear axle is that this can result in some nasty 2 wheel characteristics on slipery surfaces. Especially going down hill in the winter. What happens is that the front brakes start grab while the rear wheels still have power to them which causes loss of directional control and the rear wheels taking you off the side or wanting to be in front :-& . The only real safe way to go down a steep incline in 2 wheel drive during the winter has been to pop into neutral to remove any drive to the rear. Granted I could drive around in 4x4 all the time but that isn't practical because of various road conditions and you can't always stop to lock the hubs, the down side of manual hubs but the only one I can think of /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .

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[cjbronco]

I still stand on the rear disc being a waste of time. Like someone stated before, its only 30% stopping power in the rear, and you probably wont even notice the difference inside, only outside looking at your rim. As far as heating problems w/the hydraboost, drilled and slotted rotors up front. And the alst time i check, rear shoes were ALOT less expensive to buy the front pads....? Also as far as the junkyard for brake parts, im not sure how it us by ya'll but a boneyard wont sell you brake components. But besides that, you need the right brackets w/the correct backspacing, new lines, new claipers, new rotors, new pads, and just make sure that caliper has an e-brake(if your looking for one) Beside, good luck w/whatever you decide.

 

[ocalabronco]

I still stand on the rear disc being a waste of time.  Like someone stated before, its only 30% stopping power in the rear, and you probably wont even notice the difference inside, only outside looking at your rim.

sorry man, i but i gotta call big BS on that. you have a much more positive amount of friction and grabbing surface area on discs than on drums. i have driven rigs converted to discs, and it made A **** OF A BIG DIFFERENCE

rear shoes were ALOT less expensive to buy the front pads

how much are you seeing front pads for? they are 30 bucks here. thats a price i'll pay for better braking

you need the right brackets w/the correct backspacing, new lines, new claipers, new rotors, new pads, and just make sure that caliper has an e-brake(if your looking for one)

that goes without saying, but it still is going to come nowhere near the 1800 you originally stated. just how much does a hydroboost system run for? if you are adept enough to shop around, you could probably convert to rear discs for 100-150 bucks, with all new parts (except for the mounting brackets)