Crank but no start issue on a 95 XL 5.0

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Tiha

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Well, she's running...kind of. I went out and was going through all the tests, and when I connected the probe to battery positive and the orange/gray ICM wire, she roared to life immediately. She ran for a while, and sounded rough, then died. I started her a couple of more times (just with the key), and she started fine, but would start to idle really rough, and there was was seemed like a pretty good shake starting when I turned it off. I'm honestly not sure what changed since I last tried to start her. I remember from the Abraham Torres manual that he says starting when you crank with the probe connected to the gray/orange wire is a 99% indicator of a bad PIP. Shouldn't that have been addressed with the new distributor going in? Also, if you gents have any suggestions on where I should start in addressing the rough idle/shake, I would be very grateful. Despite the engine sounding bad, I was so glad to hear that familiar roar! All this detailed feedback has been extremely helpful to a rookie trying to learn. Thanks everyone
Replacement parts are garbage. I would not be the least bit surprised the pip in your new distributor is bad.

Which of course also could be causing your rough idle.
 

Motech

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I would not be the least bit surprised the pip in your new distributor is bad.

Big truth in that.

I often speak of it, but don't run into it much anymore with DIS the norm for over 20 years now.

But I have diagnosed two faulty PIP sensors in the last 10 days in distributors that have been very recently replaced by other shops.

Curiously, back when I was seeing a lot of Ford PIP failures, they were ESPECIALLY prevalent on the German built Cologne engines--the 2.8 & 2.9 Ranger mills--and the earlier 3.0 Vulcan V6 engine that replaced it to the tune of, it seems, around 70% of all PIP failures.

I wonder why that is? I had never even considered that before, and probably would not have if not for my input here in this forum the last year or so.

I tell you what though... When I learned that trick about disconnecting the SPOUT connector to identify a bad PIP, my job as a diagnostician got way simpler.
 

L\Bronco

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Big truth in that.

I often speak of it, but don't run into it much anymore with DIS the norm for over 20 years now.

But I have diagnosed two faulty PIP sensors in the last 10 days in distributors that have been very recently replaced by other shops.

Curiously, back when I was seeing a lot of Ford PIP failures, they were ESPECIALLY prevalent on the German built Cologne engines--the 2.8 & 2.9 Ranger mills--and the earlier 3.0 Vulcan V6 engine that replaced it to the tune of, it seems, around 70% of all PIP failures.

I wonder why that is? I had never even considered that before, and probably would not have if not for my input here in this forum the last year or so.

I tell you what though... When I learned that trick about disconnecting the SPOUT connector to identify a bad PIP, my job as a diagnostician got way simpler.
Interesting Motech, I never thought about it before, but you make a point.
Those are some of the few fords that had the distributor in the back. I wonder if heat had something to do with it.
Cheers
 

Motech

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Those are some of the few fords that had the distributor in the back. I wonder if heat had something to do with it.

Now that I think of it, I had less failures on the 3.0 Aerostar model than Ranger. In fact, 300K on my own 88 Aerostar with never a PIP failure.

But I have replaced my share of PIPs on distributor mounted TFI Windsors too, so...
 

L\Bronco

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Now that I think of it, I had less failures on the 3.0 Aerostar model than Ranger. In fact, 300K on my own 88 Aerostar with never a PIP failure.

But I have replaced my share of PIPs on distributor mounted TFI Windsors too, so...
Just a thought..
I'm sure we will never know, but, it does make you think.
Cheers
 

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